Despite the existence of uniform global standards, they are not always widely used in different countries, which must be taken into account, for example, when traveling on a business trip. The same types of sockets familiar to the eye, common in the CIS countries and parts of European countries, cannot be used to charge a phone or connect a laptop brought from the USA or Japan. In addition, even if you choose a socket on the domestic market, there are devices with their own connectors and functionality for different tasks.
Common parts and design differences between countries
The laws of electrical engineering work the same everywhere - on earth, under water or on the moon, so basic device always and everywhere the same, regardless of the type and purpose of the socket used. Its main task is to ensure easy connection and disconnection of an electrical appliance to a stationary power supply. As a result, the elements and materials will be the same everywhere, and the main difference will be in their form, which has historically been used in different countries.
The main types of sockets used in different countries:
- A – USA and Japan – sockets designed for 110 Volts.
- B – The same type A, only with a ground contact.
- C – For operation in networks of 220 Volt and 50 Hertz. Distributed in the CIS countries and a number of European countries.
- D – British female connectors. Almost the same ones are used in South Africa.
- E - French version of the type C socket, but with a grounding contact.
- F – German version type C for wiring with grounding
- G - Another standard from Britain.
- H – Standard in Israel.
- I - Devices installed in Australia.
- J – Swiss female connector.
- K – Danish version of the C type socket for grounding.
- L – Italian simplicity and functionality.
This video describes in detail the features of electrical networks and, in particular, sockets in different countries of the world:
What parts are sockets made from?
From the above devices it can be seen that all varieties household sockets, despite various designs, have a common structure. The design of a standard socket includes two main connectors for phase and neutral, and if the model takes into account the presence of grounding, then there will be three contacts. Accordingly, if the voltage supplied to it and the frequency of the current are suitable for the device that needs to be turned on, then if there is an adapter, it will work.
The socket design, regardless of its type, appearance and characteristics, includes the following elements:
- The base is made of dielectric - ceramic or plastic. The ceramic base can withstand high temperatures in case of contact overheating, but is more fragile. At the base there are mounting sockets for contacts, a fastening mechanism and threaded holes for screwing the cover.
- Fastening mechanism. U internal sockets These are spacer tabs, and on the outside there are simply holes in the base for screws.
- The main contacts are for phase and zero. The part that covers the plug contacts can be additionally spring-loaded to make the contact more dense. Additionally, they have a cable holder.
- A ground pin is not a required component, but most devices have one.
- Plastic cover - covers current-carrying elements and protects them from dust and water. It may consist of two parts - decorative and fastening.
These are common parts that are found in any outlet, but there are also devices on the market with additional functions that will add more to this list.
Differences by installation type
According to this criterion, the types of electrical outlets are divided into two main categories: internal and external.
The first type of device is used most often, despite certain difficulties associated with their installation - installation takes place in the wall, for which you need to cut a hole in it for the socket itself and a groove for the wire that will fit to it. These disadvantages are offset by undoubted advantages in terms of aesthetics and fire safety - you don’t have to trip over wires, risking damaging them, and if something happens short circuit, then in the thickness of the wall it is not scary.
External types of sockets are used most often when it is necessary to lay temporary wiring or in wooden houses, where the installation of internal wiring is regulated by very strict restrictions and is practically not used. Also, large power sockets are often attached externally.
Technical specifications - power and household sockets
Only two standard frequencies are used worldwide alternating current– 50 and 60 Hertz. These values are absolutely not important for the sockets themselves - only the amount of current loss during its transportation over long distances depends on them.
There are also few voltage standards - 100, 110, 115, 120, 127, 220, 230 and 240 volts. Considering that permissible deviations are +/- 10%, we can assume that there are two main standards - 127 and 220 volts.
Much more attention should be paid to what kind of sockets there are in terms of the current strength for which their contacts are designed - in modern household devices this is 10 and 16 Amperes. If you need to connect a device designed for high current, then you need to install a power outlet under it - usually they are designed for 32 Amperes. The fundamental difference between them is in the thickness of the contacts, which results in a large area of contact between them.
Varieties by purpose
If initially sockets were used exclusively to power electrical appliances from the mains, then with the increase in the number of wires in the average home, it became necessary to hide some of them in cable channels and draw conclusions. As a result, new types of sockets appeared, which became the outputs of antenna wires for TVs, cables for Internet connections for computers, radios and landline phones. Recently, they have even installed socket terminals to which you can connect speakers from an audio system and USB wire for charging your phone.
Regardless of what the socket is used for, its main components remain the same - the base, fastening mechanism, contacts and an insulating (also decorative) cover.
Additional functions
When pressing issues are resolved, they begin to deal with comfort - the following types of sockets are premium devices with additional functionality that allows them to improve their operating conditions.
As a result
Regardless of how the outlet is designed externally, its main components are always the same. Thanks to this, when traveling to other countries, you often need to use the charger mobile phone or laptop, you can use (or make yourself) an adapter. True, before this you need to find out what standard is adopted in the country for the frequency and voltage of electric current.
Sockets is an electrical device designed for quickly connecting and disconnecting electrical devices to the electrical network.
The name Rosette is borrowed from architecture; this is the name for the round elements of room decor, which are named after the rose flower.
Types of electrical outlets
Electrical outlets vary in load capacity, appearance and installation method. There are sockets designed for installation in the wall, on the wall and in the form of a remote unit with a switch. For example, a pilot type extension cord for computers. There are combined options in the form of a block of two sockets, a socket and a switch, a socket and a control unit (timer, thermostat, motion or fire sensor).
There is an IEC standard for plug connectors (plugs and sockets), but each country has had its own standard since time immemorial. The main difference between all standards concerns the shape of the pins, their geometric dimensions and the distance between them. The transition to an international standard is associated with enormous costs, since it will be necessary to replace all installed sockets and plugs in electrical appliances. Whether such a transition will happen in the future is unknown.
type of IP protection, electrical sockets are unprotected, protected from dust and to varying degrees protection from moisture, up to the possibility of immersion in water.Types and load capacity
electrical outlets
Currently in Russia, sockets are used that meet the requirements of GOST 7396.1-89 (IEC 83-75) type C5 and C6. On the body of each socket there is a marking indicating its technical characteristics - the maximum permissible current and the permissible supply voltage.
Sockets type C5 (Soviet sockets) have two round sockets designed to connect plugs with pins with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 19 mm, located at a distance of 19 mm and are intended for connecting electrical appliances whose housing does not require grounding, for example, a hair dryer, mixer and are designed for current up to 6 A. Such sockets are intended for installation only in residential premises.
Sockets type C6 (Euro socket), designed for current up to 16 A, have two round sockets for connecting plugs with pins with a diameter of 4 and 4.8 mm and a length of 19 mm, located at a distance of 19 mm. Unlike the C5 socket, it additionally has a strip contact for connecting the grounding conductor yellow - green colors. The socket is borrowed from the German standard CEE 7/4 and is called Schuko.
Another type of sockets is a block in which a C6 type socket (Euro socket) and one or several key switches for lamps are simultaneously installed. For example, the Viko combined block (Viko), the appearance of which is shown in the photo below with LED backlight keys
The Euro socket is connected in such a switch block according to the diagram given in the article “How to connect a chandelier”. According to the same scheme, if necessary, the socket is connected to an ordinary switch.
Designation and wiring diagram
electrical outlet
What power
can withstand an electrical outlet
When connecting high-power electrical appliances to an electrical outlet, the question often arises as to whether the outlet is designed for such power, and how you can check or find out what power this outlet is designed for.
Checking the power of an electrical outlet should be carried out in two stages. At the first stage, by external inspection you can determine the permissible power of the outlet by appearance. Typically, simple Soviet-made sockets with pins with a diameter of 4 mm, type C5, are designed to connect electrical appliances with a power of up to 1.3 kW. If a Euro socket type C6 is installed, then devices with a power of up to 3.5 kW can be connected to it. But the permissible power of the connected device depends not only on the technical characteristics of the outlet.
The socket is connected to the electrical network using wires. Therefore, at the second stage you need to find out which maximum power these wires can withstand. If the cross-section of the wires is unknown, then you need to open the socket and measure the cross-section of the wire.
Thus, the power that a particular electrical outlet can withstand depends not only on its technical characteristics, but also on the cross-section of the wires with which the outlet is connected to the electrical network. For example, if a Euro socket C6, which can withstand a load of 3.5 kW, is connected to the electrical network with a wire with a cross-section of 1.0 mm 2, then the permissible power that the socket can withstand will be only 1.2 kW. The full load capacity of a Euro socket will be realized with a wire cross-section of 2.7 mm 2 or more.
Arrangement of electrical sockets
As explained above, there are two types of sockets, C5 and C6. Let's take a closer look at what their differences are.
Electrical socket arrangement C5
Despite the huge variety, all sockets are designed in the same way according to the principle of operation and differ only in the shape of the contacts and the material of the body and cover. The design of the C5 socket is very simple. On a ceramic or plastic base, two contacts made of thin brass (thin in order to maintain spring properties) are fixed with adapter iron plates about two millimeters thick by means of screws threaded through the base. Steel plates also serve for threaded connection of wires.
From above, the entire structure is closed with a lid, which serves to protect people from electric shock and prevent the ingress of foreign objects. The cover is screwed to the base using a screw, which is usually located in the center of the socket. The cover has guide holes for easy insertion of the plug when connecting electrical appliances. Depending on the location of the socket installation (in the wall or on the wall), the base is supplemented necessary elements for fastening.
The socket shown in the photo above has one significant drawback. Over time, the springing properties of brass, according to Hooke's law, weaken, the pressure deteriorates, and the resistance between the contacts of the socket and the pins of the plug increases. This leads to heating and even worse contact. Eventually the socket fails. Signs of poor contact can be easily detected by touching the pins of the plug with your hand immediately after finishing operation of a powerful electrical appliance, for example, an electric kettle, iron, hair dryer. Be careful, the pins may be hot enough to cause burns.
The design of the socket below is freed from this drawback. A steel spring is additionally installed in the body, pressing the rectangular brass plate against the thin-walled one. As a result, the spring properties of the contact do not change over time. It is universal and you can insert plugs with pin diameters of both 4 mm (rated for current up to 6 A) and 4.8 mm (rated for current up to 16 A).
And yet, even this electrical socket for impeccable long-term service requires the addition of a spring washer, which is called a Grover and ensures constant contact of the contacting parts over time.
Electrical socket arrangement C6
The C6 type socket is practically no different in design from the C5 socket, with the exception of one, the presence of an additional flat contact for connection yellow - green ground wire colors.
When the plug is inserted into the socket, the pins fit into the sockets of a thin brass plate, and the brass U-shaped plate of the socket is pressed against its side grounding contacts on both sides. Thus, grounding is carried out.
The photo also shows how to connect the wires to the socket for the case parallel connection sockets If the C5 socket is replaced with a C6 socket in an apartment with electrical wiring in which there is no grounding wire, then the grounding contact of the C6 socket is left unconnected.
Pilot type extension device
A plug with a cord, at the end of which there is a block with sockets and a switch, is often called a Pilot. The pilot is designed in the same way as a regular socket, only the sockets are made of two brass strips in length, depending on the number of sockets. An earth wire strip is placed in the center. In addition, a fuse or automatic fuse is often installed in the Pilot.
Sometimes posted on printed circuit board a simple chain of capacitors and inductances to filter impulse noise coming or coming from electrical appliances. This filter only works if the pilot is connected to ground. If there are only two wires in the wiring and there is no ground, then the filter in the pilot will not work.
Pilots sometimes stop working. The switch is not reliable, I have seen cases where a key fell out due to wear of its latch, sometimes the key breaks into pieces. I also had to deal with contacts that burned out. In such cases, the switch must be replaced with a new one. To remove the switch from the Pilot body, you must first unsolder the wires from its terminals and then press the latches with inside. You can temporarily short-circuit the switch terminals (the places where the jumpers are installed are marked in red in the photo) or solder the cord from the plug directly to the brass strips with sockets for the plug pins.
Sometimes a fuse trips or blows. If the fuse in the Pilot is automatic, then you just need to press a button, usually a small black one, and operation will be restored. If a fuse blows, it needs to be replaced or repaired.
Rules for connecting electrical outlets
How to move an outlet to another location on the wall
When installing furniture or for other reasons, sometimes it becomes necessary to move the socket to another location, move it to the side or lower it down. In this case, you have to either replace the entire wire from the junction box to the new installation location or extend the existing wires. It is not advisable to change the wire in a renovated apartment; installing an additional junction box is also not always acceptable. It is best to build up the wires using the technology described in the site article “Connecting broken wires in the wall.”
An example of moving a socket to another location on the wall
When renovating an apartment, I took advantage of the situation and moved one of the sockets from one place on the wall to a more convenient one. Until this time, all hands had not reached.
At a new location on the wall, where it was necessary to move the socket, a metal box was installed and a groove was made for laying an additional wire; since the length of the electrical wiring wire was not enough, it became necessary to extend it.
For extension, I took the available stranded copper wire with a cross section of 1 mm 2, which is quite enough to connect electrical appliances with a power of up to 1200 watts to an outlet.
At the end of the conductors that will be connected to the socket terminals, rings were formed and tinned with solder. The wire itself, consisting of two separate conductors, for ease of installation and reliability, was threaded into a vinyl chloride tube and laid in a groove made at the seam between the bricks.
To ensure that the wire did not fall out of the groove before it was covered with plaster, it was secured with two self-tapping screws.
After installing the socket and covering the wire with rotband, it is time to perform the splicing. Since the wires are copper, the most reliable way, wire connections - twisting followed by soldering. The current supply wire came from next room through the wall, at the place where it came out, when drilling the wall, a brick chipped and a small void formed. I decided to hide the connection point of the wires in it. If there was no ready-made recess, you could hollow out a recess in the brick yourself in any convenient place.
Next, the wires are shortened to required length, the insulation is removed and the conductors are tinned with solder using a soldering iron. Please note that the wires are shortened to different lengths to completely eliminate contact with exposed parts of the wires.
The next step is twisting the wires. Before twisting, wires that are longer must be fitted with insulating tubes. The color in the photo is red. Since the stranded wire is softer, I wound its ends onto single-core electrical wiring wires.
Since the wires are already tinned, to connect them reliably, it is enough to simply heat the junction of the wires with a soldering iron and fill it with tin-lead solder.
Then an insulating tube is pulled over the junction of the wires. If you don’t have a tube at hand, you can simply cover the exposed wires with three layers of insulating tape.
After insulating the connection point, the wires must be tucked into the wall cavity and covered with plaster. But it is better, before applying plaster, to close the cavity with a plate of any material. Thick cardboard, a piece of tin from a tin can and any other material will do. I made a cover from fiberglass in the shape of a hole in the wall.
Next, a small amount of solution is diluted; cement, alabaster, gypsum and any other plaster are suitable. I covered the joint with rotband. Using a spatula, the joint is leveled with the level of the wall surface.
Of course, it was possible to cover the junction of the wires with plaster while leveling the walls, but it is better to complete the work started completely, so that later, when leveling the wall, you do not waste extra time. The rotband solution lasts only 20 minutes and when working with it, every second counts.
The socket was moved to a new location and now nothing prevents us from continuing to repair this section of the wall.
Socket repair
Sockets fail for two reasons, due to poor contact at the point where the electrical wiring is attached and weakening of the spring properties of the brass plates of the socket. Conductors at the point of contact usually burn due to violation of installation rules.
When contact between a wire and a contact of a socket or any other electrical appliance worsens, then when more current flows, a quiet hissing ringing sound appears, which is clearly audible in silence. In this case, it is urgent to perform contact prevention on the electrical appliance. I have often observed this in chandeliers with powerful incandescent light bulbs.
Here is a clear example of this. Aluminum wire without a ring at the end, was clamped between the contact and the square nut, without a Grover. Unfortunately, this is what all electricians do. Over time, the contact of the wire with the socket contact weakened, the resistance increased, and additional heat began to be released, which led to burning of both the wire and the contact of the socket itself. The left contact is still fine, but the right one has turned red from overheating, the screw and nut have oxidized and turned black.
The brass contact of the socket has lost its spring properties due to overheating, therefore, the clamp with the pins of the plug will be poor. I had to change the spring contact of the socket, make rings at the ends of the wires and install growers.
The socket may also fail due to the fault of the plug inserted into it due to poor contact of the current supply cord with the pins in collapsible fork, and due to the use of steel pins instead of brass. Some Chinese manufacturers allow themselves to do this. In this case, the pins of the plug become very hot and transfer heat to the brass contacts of the socket, destroying them. To prevent the socket from malfunctioning for this reason, it is enough to touch the plug pins with your hand immediately after using the electrical appliance for the first time, being careful not to get burned. If the pins of the plug have become so hot that it is impossible to hold your hand on them, then if the socket is working properly, the plug must be replaced with a high-quality one.
If you do everything as I recommended above, then you can practically forget about this type of refusal. The brass plates of the socket serve a long time, but over time they lose their spring properties and become deformed. They can be repaired back to their original shape if they can be removed from the socket base. Otherwise, you will have to replace the socket with a new one. In the case of poor contact in the socket, the surfaces become heavily oxidized and repair, as a rule, comes down to sanding the contacting surfaces with sandpaper. If the screws and washers are blackened, they must be replaced with new ones.
In advanced cases, it happens that the base or cover of the socket becomes charred or deformed; such a socket cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one.
The main task of the socket is to create reliable electrical contact with the power plug of the device after switching on, while the socket must be completely safe for humans
Electricity is used literally everywhere. That is why reliable devices that provide access to it are so necessary. In everyday life, electrical outlets are used to access the power grid. They can work properly for many years, but sometimes they become unusable.
Electrical sockets used to connect electrical appliances and electrical machines to the electrical network. The main task of the socket is to create reliable electrical contact with the power plug of the device after switching on. In addition, sockets must be completely safe for humans, and their design must completely prevent unintentional contact with wires and parts that are or may be live.
Currently, the requirements for the safety and appearance of sockets have increased significantly. Specific application conditions dictate the color and shape of the parts protruding above the wall; increasingly, sockets must be assembled into a module (it may include connectors for a telephone line, television cable and computer network).
Arrangement of electrical sockets
When designing sockets, the so-called modular method is used. In this case, the device mechanism is designed as a separate unit (functional module), which can be installed in any standard devices. At the same time, the decorative module (overlay) can be changed according to fashion, tastes or the interior of the room. In this case, the mechanism itself does not require replacement. This is all the more convenient since it is the mechanism that is attached to the load-bearing surface (for example, to the wall).
Function module base and decorative details sockets are made of special plastics. They are good dielectrics, have high strength at normal and elevated temperatures, do not support combustion, do not change color and are not destroyed under the influence of electromagnetic fields and ultraviolet light. In the European Union countries, for example, high-strength ABS plastic and polycarbonate are used for this purpose. But porcelain is prohibited in these countries for the production of sockets and other similar devices, as it is not the most reliable of dielectrics.
So, any electrical appliance that has a connecting cord with a power plug can be connected to a source of electricity. Simply insert this plug into an electrical outlet of the appropriate design. However, such a connection can be considered correct only if, when electric current flows, the contacts formed by the plug and socket do not heat up or spark. This can be ensured if the socket electrodes are in reliable contact with the plug pins and fit them tightly, providing a large contact area. Each such electrode is made in the form of a spring-loaded receiving socket. Its original diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the plug pin, so when plugging it into a socket we must apply some force to overcome the elasticity of these sockets.
The design of the socket outlets and the material from which they are made must ensure a sufficiently large number of repetitions of the “on-off” cycle without deteriorating the quality of the contacts. Sockets from the company, which are considered leaders in their industry, allow for at least 5000 such cycles, which is equivalent to a service life of 6-10 years (provided that the socket is used 1-2 times a day).
The socket's receiving sockets are connected to its terminals, to which the electrical wiring wires are connected. What does it have to do with modern devices this connection is not made as a separate part, but as a branch of a monolithic plate from which the receiving socket is made. In this way, it is possible to avoid additional connections that are undesirable from a reliability point of view in the path of the electrical current.
Of great importance for the reliability of the socket is the quality of the mechanical connection of the supply wires to its terminals and the reliability of the electrical contact in this connection. In other words, the terminals must firmly hold the wires and ensure reliable contact with the live parts of the socket. The most famous and, perhaps, still the most reliable for power wiring and sockets are screw terminals. In them, the wires are pressed against live parts using screws. Their main advantage is that the force with which the wires are clamped into the terminal can be quite significant, and this ensures both good wire retention and reliable electrical contact. However, in order to prevent the clamp from loosening due to vibration or heating, it is advisable to use screws in the terminals together with spring washers, which prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the fasteners.
Spring terminals are often used in the design of household electrical outlets. Their advantage is that they greatly facilitate the connection of wires. To do this, simply insert the bare end of the wire with some force into a special hole on the socket body. A spring-loaded “knife” inside the terminal will fix the wire and press it against the live parts of the socket. But the strength of such a “clamp” is difficult to control, and if for some reason it becomes loose, the unreliable contact of the wire with the socket will go unnoticed at the installation stage and will lead to premature failure of the socket.
The conditions for installing sockets quite often force you to connect not one, but two wires to each terminal. Taking this into account, both screw and spring terminals are provided with two seats or holes for wires. But when connecting wires in pairs, it is necessary to ensure that their diameters are either the same or differ very slightly. Otherwise, a wire with a smaller diameter will be poorly fixed. For example, it is almost impossible to securely clamp a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm² with one screw if a wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² is connected at the same time.
As you know, to connect household electrical appliances You need two single-core wires or one double-core. Therefore, each socket has at least two insulated terminals and receiving sockets, and if the electrical wiring is made with a three-core wire, in which the third conductor is grounding, then on such electrical wiring it is advisable to install sockets with additional grounding electrodes (the so-called “sockets with grounding”). According to safety requirements, these electrodes are located in the socket structure so that when a plug that has similar electrodes is turned on, the grounding electrodes on the plug and socket come into contact before the pins of the plug come into contact with the receiving sockets of the socket. Therefore, the grounding electrodes are always clearly visible on the socket. These are either two metal plates on the sides, or one metal pin, very similar to the pin of a power plug. The grounding electrodes are connected to their terminal, to which the grounding wire of the electrical wiring is connected.
The most important technical characteristics of electrical outlets are the permissible electric current and operating voltage. As a rule, in the internal electrical wiring of residential and office premises, sockets are used that are designed for a current of 10 or 16 A and an operating voltage of up to 250 V. So that the current-carrying parts of the sockets are able to pass such a current with minimal heat generation (in other words, without heating), for them production uses special metal alloys with a relatively high copper content (10-60%). The electrical conductivity of such alloys is quite high and allows this condition to be met without a significant increase in the size of current-carrying parts and the sockets themselves. At the same time, these alloys are harder than pure copper and have the elasticity necessary for the correct functioning of the socket sockets.
Obviously, the above-mentioned permissible currents for sockets correspond to the range of electrical power consumption values in which the vast majority of electrical household appliances operate. And only kitchen electric stoves will require special, more powerful sockets (connectors). But even more often they are connected without sockets at all - through terminal boxes.
Types of electrical outlets
Electrical sockets are overhead, built-in and portable. Regarding the latter, it will be enough to say that they are designed as a portable device with a dielectric housing that protects it well from the influence of external environment. Such enclosures are used on various kinds electrical extension cords. Typically, a power plug is installed at the other end of the extension cord.
Overhead sockets mounted on open wiring when wires are laid along the surface of walls, ceilings and other building structures. These sockets are attached to the wall in the right place using self-tapping screws or screws passed through mounting holes in the bottom of the socket body or in a monolithic base. The wires are fed to the terminals through an opening in the side wall of the housing.
Although the fastening method used in overhead sockets is quite simple, it ensures reliable fixation of the sockets on the supporting surface. More often, some difficulties with fastening arise when installing built-in sockets. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, their installation and fixation mechanism are really more complicated than those of overhead ones. Secondly, built-in sockets are used when installing hidden electrical wiring, used almost everywhere. Higher demands are placed on built-in sockets and the quality of their installation.
It is installed so that its functional module (mechanism) is completely hidden in the wall. Only decorative overlays remain on the surface. Such a socket is fixed in the wall using spacer tabs and self-tapping screws passed through the holes in the mounting plate. Many people are familiar with the situation when, when turning off the power plug, the socket falls out of the wall and hangs on the wires. Such a nuisance most often occurs with built-in sockets, ineptly secured using only claws.
It's always unpleasant when something doesn't go well. And it’s doubly offensive when simple and seemingly more than reliable things fail, such as sockets. In fact, everything has its own trouble-free operation life, and so do electrical outlets. Under the influence of electromagnetic fields, plastic parts undergo slow destruction and lose their strength, and electrical contacts deteriorate over time. Over long periods of use, screw connections become loose, sockets become loose and even fall out of the wall. In the end, they simply become unusable, and we exclude them from being useful things. Such sockets must be replaced.
But often the cause of malfunctioning sockets is errors during their installation or improper operation. In this case, you can try to repair them. Let's consider several typical situations. If, after connecting electrical appliances, especially powerful ones, the outlet emits a strong smell of burnt plastic, this means that somewhere in the outlet there is a bad electrical contact that generates too much heat. After unplugging the plug from the outlet and waiting 30 seconds, touch the pins of the power plug. If they are hot, this indicates that, most likely, the receiving sockets of the socket have lost their elasticity and do not fit tightly to the pins of the plug. This is also indicated by the darkened edges of the holes for the plug in the front panel of the socket due to high temperature.
If the pins are only slightly warm or completely cold, then contact failure should be looked for at the point where the supply wires are connected to the socket. It is possible that one or both terminals do not press the wires against the live parts of the socket well enough. In new sockets (or those that have been in use for less than a year), the clamping screws on these terminals were simply not tightened during installation.
The outlet may overheat and even catch fire., if an overly powerful electrical appliance or several electrical appliances are powered through it, the total power of which creates a current exceeding the permissible current of the outlet. By the way, the permissible current value and operating voltage are usually indicated on the front panel of the socket. For example, you can read there: 10 A, 250 V. This means that electrical appliances with a total power of no more than 2.2 kW can be plugged into the outlet. A socket designed for a current of 16 A can plug in electrical appliances with a power of up to 3.5 kW. You can try to repair an outlet that is heating up.
Be sure to disconnect from the power supply the entire electrical wiring of the apartment or that part of it in which the outlet to be repaired is installed. Please note that it only makes sense to repair it if the cause of the heating is the screw terminal. All other problems cannot be resolved on their own. Receptacles that have lost their elasticity, weak spring terminals are all sufficient reasons to replace the entire outlet (or its functional module). Thus, it makes sense to disassemble the socket for repair only when everything indicates poor contact of the wires with the socket terminals.
If this is indeed the case, then use a suitable screwdriver to unscrew the screw holding the socket faceplate and remove it. The decorative frame can also be easily removed with it. Below them is the socket mechanism. If it uses screw terminals, then on its lower or upper edge two identical spikes will be visible, located symmetrically on the sides relative to the vertical axis of the socket, and possibly wires leading to them. Screw both screws in completely (but still do not strip the threads). Reinstall the frame and bezel. That's it, the renovation is complete. It’s a different matter if, upon opening the socket mechanism, you find that the terminals are spring-loaded. In this case, the entire outlet must be replaced. How to do this will be discussed below.
In older models of sockets with a porcelain base, the screw terminals are located on the bottom and are not visible from the front of the socket. To tighten the screws of such terminals, it is necessary to remove the socket from the installation (mounting) box. Better yet, just buy and install a new outlet.
Built-in socket repair
1. Built-in socket with cut-out half and front panel. In the middle you can see the screw securing the panel to the socket mechanism
2. Remove decorative trims and, if necessary, cut sharp knife wallpaper hiding the mounting frame
3. To remove the mechanism from the installation box, you need to unscrew the screws securing the mounting frame
4. Before connecting the outlet, be sure to check the supply wires for broken wires
5. After checking, remove the piece from the spring terminal and insert the bare end of the whole wire into it
6. Screw the self-tapping screws into the edge of the box and pass their heads through the slots in the mounting frame. Turn the mechanism clockwise
7. If the terminals are screw, then clamp the bare end of the whole wire with the terminal screw
8. A double socket can be installed in one installation box, which can be repaired in the same way.
Quite often the outlet simply does not work. That is, connecting electrical appliances to it does not mean connecting to a source of electricity. And if, when you plug the power plug into such an outlet, no spark is visible, then there is only one reason - somewhere there was a break in the phase or neutral (less often both) supply wire. It’s easy to check which one it is. It is enough to touch the phase indicator (phase detector, voltage indicator) to one and then to the other electrode of the socket. If the indicator light comes on during one of the touches, then you should look for a break neutral wire. And if not, then phase or both.
It is possible that the wire broke off or was damaged during installation of the socket. Then the break point can be found in the installation (mounting) box. After turning off the power supply to the apartment or the corresponding part of the electrical wiring, remove the socket from the box (how to do this will be clear from what is said below) and check the supply wires. If visually they seem intact, touch them, try to bend them carefully (a broken wire hidden under the insulation is invisible to the eye, but can be detected by touch), and finally check whether they are held well in the terminal. Having found a break, cut off the broken end, strip the remaining intact wire and clamp it in the terminal. To remove the fragment from the spring terminal, you must press the button above it.
Sparking when plugging the appliance into a socket means that the socket sockets have completely lost their elasticity. This socket requires replacement.
It is dangerous when the built-in socket falls out of the wall and hangs on the wires. Live parts of the socket and exposed wires near the terminals are accessible to accidental touch and can cause electric shock. If the socket itself is not damaged, then installing it in place and strengthening it is quite simple.
All built-in control and switching devices of a modular design, including electrical sockets, have the same type of fastening units. These are fastening slots on four sides of the mounting frame and spacer tabs on the sides of the functional module, which are moved to the sides from the monolithic base of the module when the corresponding screws are screwed in.
For (including sockets) a hole is drilled into the wall with a hollow cylindrical drill (“crown”) using a hammer drill or a drill, in which the installation (mounting) box is fixed in one way or another (most often with alabaster). She may have different shapes, but should allow the functional module of the device to be completely immersed in it and strengthened there with spacer legs. In addition, the box must have holes on the top edge intended for fixing the socket mechanism (with self-tapping screws through the slots in its mounting frame).
Having turned off the power supply to the apartment or the corresponding fragment of electrical wiring, you should remove the front panel and decorative frame from the fallen socket (the screw holding them is usually clearly visible in the center of the panel), loosen the screws of the spacer tabs, press the tabs to the base of the socket mechanism and insert it into the installation box. In this case, the slots in the mounting frame should be above the holes for the screws in the edge of the box. You can screw in the screws after installing the socket in the box or before - the slots in the mounting frame in one of the positions allow the screws to pass through along with the cap. When the functional module of the socket is correctly oriented (the sides of the mounting frame are positioned strictly horizontally or vertically) and attached to the box with self-tapping screws, it should also be secured with spacer tabs by tightening their screws.
Naturally, the socket returned to its place in the wall should be covered with a decorative frame and front panel that were previously removed.
Sockets are not the most complex switching devices used in electrical engineering. However, repeated connections of electrical appliances to them significantly affect their performance. Considering that one of the consequences of malfunctioning sockets can be excessive heat generation and even fire, it makes sense to carefully monitor the condition of the sockets, repair them in a timely manner or replace old sockets with new ones.
Advice: without the necessary qualifications and skills, do not start working with electrical wiring - it is dangerous! Have this work carried out by a qualified person.
These products are electrical installation products and are the most important element of any home electrical network. In addition to classic power sockets and light switches, many new varieties of these devices have recently appeared, which differ markedly from old models (Fig. 5.35). However, the essence remains the same. Sockets (connectors)The full name is plug socket. Everyone knows what it is. There is no house that doesn't have them. After all, it is through sockets that electrical appliances are connected, without which modern life is unthinkable. A socket is part of a plug connection that also includes a plug (Fig. 5.36). These components are called “mom” and “dad”. There are such varieties of sockets great amount that it is very difficult for an uninitiated person to figure out which one he needs. All sockets are similar in appearance. To make your choice, you need to know some technical details. Any outlet consists of the following basic elements: Contacts; The base, which is called the block; Protective housing. The contact is the main working element of the socket. It is through it that energy is transferred from the power cable to the contacts of the connected device. The contact material is a metal alloy that has a certain elasticity for reliable connection of the plug pins to the socket. On one side, the contacts have screw or key clamps for connection to the power conductor, on the other, they interact with the plug. Great importance has a technical characteristic of the contacts, that is, what voltage and current they are designed for. Old-style sockets are designed for a nominal voltage of 220-230 V and a current of 6.3-10 A. These values are much less than modern ones, in which the permissible current is 10-16 A. |
The total power of electrical appliances that can be connected to a separate outlet depends on these indicators (Fig. 5.37). Compare the old model - 1386 W (1386 W = 6.3 A x 220 V) and the modern one - 3520 W (3520 W = 16 A x 220 V).
It turns out that current sockets are almost three times larger than the old models. This happens due to the increase in power of household electrical appliances. If the apartment has old-style connectors, then you should think about whether it is worth connecting a washing machine or air conditioner to them. The contact material may fail.
This is not the only problem with old outlets. The distance between the output contacts is also different, with modern ones it is larger. In addition, the diameter
The pins of the plug also differ: instead of 4 mm, it became 4.8 mm. Keep in mind that not every old outlet can be used to connect a modern electrical appliance without the help of a hammer (Fig. 5.38). Nowadays, three wires are installed in sockets: phase, neutral and ground. In old samples there are only two phases and zero, while on new devices special grounding conductors are installed (Fig. 5.39). It is clear that when under Fig. 5.38. When plugged into an old, old-style socket, this protection will not work, and this is absolutely unacceptable from a safety point of view. The point here is not only in the design of the sockets, but also in the power supply power network, which may or may not have a grounding system. This most often happens in older houses.
If the socket is built-in, the block has fastenings for installing it in the socket box.
The protective housing is the outer cover of the connector with holes for the plug (Fig. 5.41).
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Rice. 5.41. Built-in socket in the socket |
It performs protective and decorative functions.
IN certain types special devices are installed in the lid, such as protective curtains, covers, plug ejection buttons, lighting, etc. The covers are made of heat-resistant, unbreakable plastic with various inserts that decorate sockets and can be replaced if they do not fit new wallpaper or planning elements .
Although there are many hundreds and even thousands of varieties of sockets, they are divided into several main types.
Built-in socket so called because its block, together with the contacts, is immersed in the wall and the protective housing almost does not protrude from the plane of the wall (Fig. 5.42). Such a socket is mounted with hidden wiring in installation boxes (socket boxes).
When installing overhead socket no need to make a hole in the wall. It simply attaches to the surface. The protective housing surrounds the connector on all sides, without leaving contacts exposed, as is the case with hidden sockets.
U sockets with grounding there are contacts connected to the ground wire (Fig. 5.43). Designed for installation in Electricity of the net, which have grounding.
Double sockets are used to connect two plugs at once.
At the base they have one standard size block, so
built-in option double sockets Suitable for installation in one socket box. If in one place you need to connect an outlet with more than 2 sockets, then place overhead blocks ( open wiring) or install several single-socket sockets side by side and put a frame on top ( hidden wiring) (Fig. 5.44).
Sockets with additional functions can be of any type, the main difference is that additional gadgets are installed in the case or block. The most common devices are: lighting, child safety curtains, moisture-proof covers, a plug ejector and a shutdown timer (Fig. 5.45-5.47).
Sockets can be the most different types. For example, a double built-in socket with ground or a single-socket external socket without ground (marked as b/c). There is such a type of outlet as a walk-through outlet.
This means that it is not the final one in the electrical circuit. The power wire, energizing such an outlet, goes on to the next one. They are mounted with boxless wiring. In addition to power ones, there are also sockets for data cable tips. Antenna socket |
differs from conventional power input in appearance. Instead of the usual two holes for the pins of the plug, it has a connector for the tip of the antenna cable (Fig. 5.48). Such sockets are installed in places where televisions are located or they are moved from place to place.
NOTE
Never remove the plug from the outlet by pulling the cord. If the pins of the plug are slightly misaligned, it will get stuck in the contacts of the socket. Pulling the wire can simply pull the outlet out of the wall and create the risk of a short circuit. Computer socket
in appearance it is very similar to a telephone one (Fig. 5.50).
It differs in the size of the cable lug and the number of contact wires. Used to connect to the Internet and connect computers to each other.
Among the many types of various sockets, there are those that combine antenna, telephone and computer connectors in one housing (Fig. 5.51). Telephone socket
designed for a telephone connector. There are several types: from the simplest, installed next to the telephone, to complex ones, having the appearance and dimensions of a power outlet (Fig. 5.49).
Plug connectors may vary greatly from country to country. For example, a hair dryer bought in Russia cannot be connected to a French outlet. If it is necessary to connect mismatched connectors, special adapters are used (Fig. 5.52). By the way, the so-called Euro sockets are a German standard.
It can be used as a regular outdoor power socket. When making an extension cord, a cord (usually PVA is used) of the required length is attached to the block and mounted to its end plug- the extension cord is ready.
In addition to ordinary household ones, there are portable extension cords, which are used for various construction work or outside the home, for example in the garden (Fig. 5.54).
Power connectors are plug connections designed to connect to single-phase and three-phase networks various electrical appliances (Fig. 5.55). 
They are used quite rarely in everyday life. Using the power connector, an electric stove, welding machine or concrete mixer can be connected (Fig. 5.56).
Switches
There are a great many types of switches. Numerous manufacturing companies vied with each other to offer a wide range of products to suit every taste. Just like sockets, switches consist of three main parts: contacts, a block and a protective cover. They are made of the same materials as the sockets (Fig. 5.57).
The difference is this. If sockets are used to connect to the electrical network, then switches do the opposite. They're tearing apart electrical circuit. There are no moving elements in the socket. In a switch, the entire operating principle is based on a changeover contact, which, by changing its position, opens or closes the circuit. A switch, unlike a socket, has only one wire - the phase wire. Some types have a contact for connecting the ground wire.
Just like sockets, switches come in hidden (built-in) and outdoor (surface) installations. This is where their similarities end.
The main types of switches are as follows.
Key switches: the main type is a device with one key or button (Fig. 5.58).
Such a switch is used when it is necessary to turn on or off one light source. For convenience and saving space, switches with 2, 3 or more keys are installed (Fig. 5.59).
Such a unit is capable of turning on and off several independent friend from other light sources. This is very convenient when you can control the lighting of several rooms from one point.
Pass-through switch (switch)- this type allows you to control one light source out of two different points. In appearance, it is no different from a regular switch. The difference becomes noticeable when looking at his contacts. Instead of 2, a single-key switch has 3. A two-key switch has 6 instead of 3. A pass-through switch is a very convenient thing. You can go into the bedroom, turn it on at the entrance, lie down in bed and turn off the light using the switch at the head of the head.
On the body illuminated switch or there is an indicator light built right into the keys that glows in the dark (Fig. 5.60). When you enter the room, you immediately understand where it is located. You don't have to search for the switch by touch.
The control one is no different in appearance from the backlit switch, but the operating principle is exactly the opposite. The indicator lamp lights up when the light is on and turns off when the circuit is open. This is necessary when you need to determine by appearance whether the lighting is turned on in a remote room.
Shockproof and dustproof switches with increased mechanical strength and protection from moisture and dust, they are installed outdoors, in bathrooms, etc. (Fig. 5.61).
A light regulator (dimmer) is a switch - a lighting regulator (Fig. 5.62). Recently they have become very popular. Using a dimmer, you can plunge a room into twilight or fill it with blinding light by smoothly turning a knob or pressing a key. There are dimmers that are controlled not manually, but using the TV remote control or voice commands. This thing costs 6-7 times more than a regular switch. In addition to the advantages, the dimmer also has some disadvantages. For example, it creates radio interference. Dimmers connected in series behave unpredictably. They cannot be used for energy saving lamps(with ballasts).
Push-button, or linear, switches are mounted directly on the wire. Most often they are used in floor lamps, sconces and other lighting equipment (Fig. 5.63).
Switch with timer has a clock mechanism that turns the light on or off at set intervals.
With such switches, you can install various sensors that are triggered by sound, light or motion. Sometimes such sensors are mounted directly into the switch housing (Fig. 5.64 and 5.65).
