Bath – required attribute most country houses and personal plots. However, its construction is often associated with considerable costs. However, when a small building is erected, which is used only in the warm season, financial losses can be minimized.
Review of alternative building materials - choose from three
The main expenses that await us when building a bathhouse are the purchase of construction and Supplies. Therefore, when drawing up an estimate for construction, let’s think about how these costs can be reduced. The traditional building material for baths is wood in the form of timber or rounded logs. Slightly less common are buildings made of brick or sibit, which have proven themselves well. But, unfortunately, the price of such consumables is quite high.
Let's consider alternative options materials that are not so well known, but quite suitable for the quick construction of an inexpensive bathhouse:
- Cinder block. It is easy to work with and its cost is low.
- Arbolite (wood concrete). Widely used in construction in the middle of the last century. It is distinguished by its light weight, ease of processing, and plasticity.
- differs in the speed of construction. The price depends on the heat insulator used.
Of these options, the last two are the most acceptable. The fact is that a classic cinder block can hardly be called an environmentally friendly material. Certainly, modern manufacturers reduce its danger to a minimum, but this only applies to large companies. But health is not something you want to risk. A lot has already been said about frame baths. Therefore, further we will talk about how to build an arbolite bathhouse.
A strong foundation is the key to the durability of the building
The owners of dachas and country houses Strip, monolithic, screw foundations and options on support columns are popular. Each of these options has strengths and weak sides. Eg, strip base It’s quite possible to do it yourself without extra costs, but it is almost impossible to equip it in areas with difficult terrain. In addition, concrete (the main component) gains strength for at least 14 days, and ideally a month. There is no need to talk about efficiency.
A monolithic foundation can withstand significant loads, but at the same time it is subject to the same disadvantages as a strip foundation - it is difficult to equip it in swampy and uneven areas. Not to mention the price. The cost of such a base is not affordable. But you also need to take into account logistics costs. Foundations on support columns are considered one of the most affordable. Yes, the installation of such a foundation will require a minimum of labor and money costs. However, like the previous options, it is not advisable to use it in areas with watery soil.
Screw piles are considered equal in cost to strip foundations. You can agree with this opinion if you forget about the associated expenses. To install metal piles, you do not need to order and pay for the delivery of concrete, or spend money on a reinforcing belt, sand and gravel for the cushion. But perhaps the main advantage is that you can install a screw foundation in one day without outside help.
Such piles are blamed for their inability to withstand significant loads. But our task is to build a bathhouse as quickly and with minimal costs. For us, screw piles are the best option.
Installing a screw foundation - step-by-step description
Let's start with a description of the pile itself. This steel pipe, equipped in the lower part with a tip and blades. The dimensions of the pile depend on the required depth of screwing into the ground, but cannot be less than 2.5 meters. The body of the pile is coated with an anti-corrosion solution. After screwing into the ground, the pile is crowned with a square head (50x50 cm). It is fixed with welding machine, after which the seam is protected from corrosion. It is on this head that the support beam (channel) will lie, from which the construction of the bathhouse will begin.
Work on installing a screw foundation begins with markings. The proverb “measure twice, cut once” is more relevant than ever. The number of piles depends on the dimensions future construction, but the distance between them cannot be more than 3 m, and preferably 2–2.5 m. After marking and clearing the construction site of debris and foreign objects, we invite helpers and begin screwing in the pile:
- In the marked place we make a pit no more than 30 cm deep and install a pile in it.
- We align the pile vertically, pass a crowbar through the mounting eyes and begin to screw in the pile.
Of course, the length of the crowbar will not allow you to create an effective lever. Therefore, we extend it with pre-prepared pipes, preferably with a square section - they have higher rigidity. The average penetration speed is 20 cm per one rotation of the pile. Stop screwing when the metal lever becomes deformed. But it is important that the pile goes below the freezing point. The minimum distance from the soil surface to the pile tip is 1.5 m.
After deepening the piles, we check their above-ground edges - they should be at the same level. If necessary, we make adjustments using a grinder. We complete the work by pouring cement mortar into the pile cavity. This will give it additional rigidity and prevent corrosion. The final stage, when working with piles - installation of strapping. For a bathhouse made of wood concrete, we make it from a metal channel, welding it to the ends. For a frame bath, a beam secured with bolts is sufficient. A mandatory requirement in both cases is the use of a building level; the horizon must be level, because the quality of the walls and roof depends on it.
Arbolite blocks - features of material and construction
Theoretically produce arbolite blocks you can do it yourself. To do this, you will need a vibrating table, block molds, cement and leftover lumber (sawdust, shavings). However, given that the cost of such material is low, it can be purchased at a hardware store. This material combines such important characteristics for a bath as good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. In addition, we do not forget about the safety of this material for human health.
Today you almost never find bathhouses with a combined steam room and sink. As a rule, the layout includes a separate steam room, sink and room. Drawings drawn up before construction will allow you to select optimal sizes and the number of consumables. There are two technologies for constructing walls from wood concrete - monolithic and from blocks. The first involves preparing or purchasing wood concrete mortar. Let’s say right away that the pleasure is not cheap, and if you make it yourself it will also take a long time. Therefore, let’s turn to the second option – block construction.
By and large, this method is no different from working with brick, sibit or cinder block. The laying begins with the installation of corner blocks, after which a thread is stretched between them - a guideline for the masonry. Adhering to the line specified by the cord, lay out the first row. Next, we check its horizon with a building level. If necessary, we correct the flaws and proceed to laying out the second row.
Please note that, unlike the same sibit, laying arbolite blocks does not require special glue - it is quite possible to get by with the usual mortar of sand and cement. However, there are similar points. For example, when laying out door and window openings You need to lay a corner or channel on top. So, we have raised the body of the future bathhouse, all that remains is to build the roof, install the stove and finish interior spaces.
Gable roof - roof and ceiling in one complex
Among the variety of roofs various types(Gothic, hip, oriental) let's focus on gable. The explanation is simple - this design is simple, reliable and relatively low in price. From building materials To build such a roof we will need:
- Beam 100×100 mm - from this we will make a mauerlat, vertical posts and stops for them.
- Boards 50 mm thick and 100 mm wide are blanks for the rafter system.
- Unedged boards and slats for sheathing.
In addition to lumber, we will prepare a vapor barrier film, mineral wool, and roofing material. For the latter, we use a metal profile - it is easy to work with and is relatively inexpensive. We start by treating the wood with an antiseptic and fire-fighting solution, in the bathhouse - this mandatory requirement. Then we lay a waterproofing layer along the upper perimeter of the walls. And only after this we begin the installation of the rafter system.
It begins with laying timber - Mauerlat - around the perimeter of the walls. Naturally, all angles are checked with a construction angle, and the horizon is checked with a level. After the Mauerlat is leveled, we pull it to the walls anchor bolts. The next step is the installation of tension beams. They are attached to the long sides of the Mauerlat “in the paw”. That is, we need to cut out the corresponding grooves in the beams and timber (base). After installation wooden parts additionally secure with nails or staples. It is advisable to maintain the distance between the beams at 1.5 meters.
Having finished preparing the base, we place vertical posts along the ends of the building. We immediately attach temporary slopes to them (they will give rigidity to the structure) and rafter legs. We connect the racks with a beam - a purlin, on which the rest of the rafter legs rest. By the way, release them 20 cm from the wall - this will reduce the impact of precipitation on the wood concrete. After installing the rafters, we fill them with an unedged board as a sheathing, and lay a vapor barrier film on it. It is attached using a construction stapler.
The final stage in roof construction is laying roofing material. Metallic profile pressed against the sheathing with roofing screws. Having closed the constructed circuit, we have already completed 70% of the construction. All we have to do is hem the ceiling and finish the walls inside the bathhouse.
Interior decoration – PVC panels or lining?
Among the budget finishing materials, we highlight PVC panels. They have proven themselves well in finishing rest rooms and washing areas. This is a completely worthy alternative ceramic tiles. You can choose such material to suit every taste and budget. But only for the washroom. In the steam room, it is better to use traditional linden lining - it will not melt when exposed to high temperatures.
It is noteworthy that wall cladding with clapboard and panels is performed almost identically. In both cases, we need to install wooden sheathing. A metal frame that causes corrosion is unacceptable in this case. On stuffed and leveled wooden base We install wooden (in the steam room) and plastic (in the sink) panels.
Keep in mind, from the stove to wooden surfaces the distance should be at least 0.5 meters, but it can be reduced to 25 cm by protecting flammable surfaces with non-combustible material.
The final stage before installing the stove is installing the ceiling. To do this, you can use clapboard or planed boards. We nail them to the tension beams and go up to the attic, we need to insulate the ceiling. Boards hemmed underneath and tie beams formed the floor of the attic. We cover it with a vapor barrier film and fill it with mineral wool. In order to save money, we will not use ready-made mats, but crumble mats; it can be purchased as residual raw materials at enterprises producing sandwich panels and similar products.
The only caveat when arranging the ceiling is to install a 40x40 cm metal box at the chimney exit. It will be required in any case, regardless of which stove you prefer - metal or brick.
It is difficult to imagine a summer cottage without an indispensable attribute - a hot bathhouse, which raises vitality with the aromas of birch broom and eucalyptus steam. Bath procedures cure many diseases, relieve stress and provide an opportunity to communicate mentally with loved ones. So, no matter how you look at it, you can’t do without her, my dear. The topic of our research is a do-it-yourself bathhouse. Projects, photos, important nuances and the invaluable experience of practitioners - all this is in this material.
Read in the article
What is the basis for choosing the optimal location for building a bathhouse?
Perhaps it will be news to some that the bathhouse cannot be placed in any place. There are many official and practical principles that should be adhered to. Moreover, incorrect choice place can lead to dire consequences. Let's look at all the rules.
Location of the bathhouse in the summer cottage
In the layout of the bath complex on garden plot There are three main requirements:
| Distance from site boundary | The distance from the bath complex to is at least three meters. The building should not obscure the territory of the neighboring plot. This gap will protect the buildings from a possible fire, because the bathhouse is a fire hazard. Another important aspect is drainage. Three-meter zone, even if your bathhouse has the most primitive system drainage will not allow dirty water penetrate into adjacent areas. For reliability, you can lay it along the fence filled with gravel. And a couple more important points: the distance to the neighbors’ residential building should be at least eight meters (six if the bathhouse is brick). When deciding where to build a facility, keep in mind that smoke from sauna stove should not reach the windows of the neighbor's house. |
| Distance to the reservoir | On the one hand, the location of the building on the banks of a river or lake is very advantageous. And it’s easier to collect water, and the pleasure of diving into the cool waves after a steam room is guaranteed. On the other hand, you should strictly follow the rules that protect the reservoir from the negative effects of wastewater. To do this, the structure must be located no closer than 15 meters from the shore. This distance, moreover, will protect the foundation of the structure from being washed away during a flood. The coastline should be strengthened with your own hands using wooden or concrete frames. |
| Gap to residential building | The “black” Russian bathhouse is located on the leeward side of the house at a distance of at least twelve meters. This will prevent smoke from entering the rooms. It is advisable that there are no other easily flammable structures near the building. Experts recommend maintaining a four-meter distance from the barn. |
Take note:
There are situations when, with the purchase of a summer cottage, a bathhouse is inherited, as they say. In this case, of course, it is not always possible to move it to a new place in accordance with the listed rules. But, with the help competent reconstruction fire safety standards can be achieved.
How to attach a bathhouse to a house without damaging the main structure
The size of the plot does not always allow meeting all of the above requirements. There is only one way out - to install bath complex straight to the house. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of this solution:
- saving site area;
- use in winter home bath more convenient, since there is no need to go outside;
- you can significantly save on insulating the structure, since one wall will be internal;
- can be used common system heating and water supply.
- Difficulties may arise with connecting the building. Special measures will be required when constructing the foundation and connecting wall planes;
- consolidation of the wastewater system may result in excessive load on the local sewer system;
- the fire hazard of the facility poses a certain threat to residential buildings.
But it should be taken into account that it is easy to slip on the tiles, and in the steam room the ceramics heat up quickly, so you cannot enter it barefoot.
It remains to resolve the issue of water supply. In a separate building, it is better to carry out the water supply underground, in a protected enclosure. If your region has severe winters, it is worth considering heating the water supply to prevent the occurrence of emergency situations. Photo reports that are not difficult to find on the Internet will tell you how to install such a system.
Article
Almost every owner own home dreams of a bath. And even if you are not going to build a bathhouse with your own hands, then you need to at least understand the variety of bathhouse designs and their little secrets.
Did you know that before building a bathhouse it is important to orient it to the cardinal directions? Usually the door to the bathhouse is located with south side— in winter, the snow melts there earlier and you don’t have to clear it often. But it is better to place the windows in the west - in the evening there will be more light in them, because we usually go to the bathhouse in the evenings. 
For the construction of a log bathhouse it is used winter forest- it is denser and less susceptible to rotting. Do not rush to start a sauna when the log house is ready - it must sit for a year, and only then can you begin finishing work.
On initial stage construction, it is necessary to resolve the issue of choosing a location such as a bathhouse. It can be erected as a free-standing structure or attached to a house or other residential building.
Many people believe that connecting a bathhouse and a house can add dampness and an unpleasant odor to the house. But, if the bathhouse has proper waterproofing, ventilation and sewerage, then the above-mentioned problems should not exist. 
On the other hand, a bathhouse made as a separate building is more fireproof, and a small veranda near the bathhouse can completely replace your garden gazebo.
A very important point when building a bathhouse is laying the foundation. The foundation can be strip, columnar or pile. For building a bathhouse with your own hands, a columnar foundation is considered the best, which consists of concrete piles set to a depth of about 1.5 meters. Such a foundation is made of stone, brick or concrete.
To decorate the inside of a bathhouse, it is better to use material made from trees such as poplar, alder or aspen, since they have high moisture resistance and low thermal conductivity. We recommend making the floors also from wood, since it heats up slightly. But wood has a tendency to rot, so it is better to make a collapsible floor and ventilate it and dry it in the sun at least once a year. 
The shelves in the bathhouse may not be very good big size. The main thing is that you can sit on them freely or lie comfortably. The size of the steam room should be about 6 square meters. m. - so you don’t need a lot of firewood to warm it up, and it’s not cramped. In a proper Russian bath, the air temperature is about 60 degrees and the humidity is 40%. Compare with Finnish sauna, where the temperature is 90 degrees and humidity is 10%.
To build a sauna with your own hands, an important point is the choice of a stove for heating the steam room. The “lightness” of steam depends on the type of oven. A brick oven takes longer to heat up and needs to sit for about an hour - but the steam is perfect and light. An iron stove heats up quickly and does not pose a risk of burning, but the steam is harsher.
The stove must be installed on a foundation. Under no circumstances should it touch the walls of the bathhouse. Consider the fact that the stove must be positioned so that all rooms of the bathhouse are heated at once. Today, stoves with an extended firebox are very popular. Such stoves allow you to heat in a steam room from the dressing room. A good stove distributes heat evenly throughout the entire bath.
The layout of the bathhouse includes three main rooms: a steam room, a shower room and a relaxation room.
In addition to these premises, the bathhouse may include a small outdoor pool, because a bathhouse is not only steam and heat, but also hardening fresh air. After all, after a steam bath you need to close your pores - and this is best done cold water external reservoir.
If you do not have the opportunity to build a bathhouse from logs, you can choose another construction option from the so-called “wooden bricks”. 
In this type of construction, wooden blocks are placed in cement mortar like bricks. 
This way you will not only save on building a bathhouse, but also get a more fireproof option. 
Such a bathhouse looks quite decent inside, and, in addition, in this way you can easily build a tent bathhouse that is so rare. 
The layout of the bathhouse will allow you to carefully consider the required functionality of your bathhouse and more accurately predict your costs and labor costs.
Bathhouse layout 1.
Bathhouse layout 2.
Bathhouse layout 3.
Bathhouse layout 4.
Bathhouse layout 5.
The bathhouse is a difficult place; for a long time, the bathhouse has rightfully been considered a real healer - “In the bathhouse, you will be born again!” But the bathhouse also has its own legends. So in the times of paganism, the Slavs, having heated the baths well and laid out clean clothes there, closed them tightly and left. This was the time when dead ancestors took a steam bath. 
During early Christianity, the bathhouse was considered a suspicious place. It was forbidden to hang icons in the bathhouse and to bring bathhouse utensils into the house. After the bath, the person had to douse himself cold water or plunge into the river - to drive away evil spirits. After visiting the bathhouse, it was forbidden to go to church; it was a sin to wash on Orthodox holidays, as well as on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Thus, Saturday became the bathing day. 
The spirit of the bathhouse, the bannik, demanded respect for himself and forbade entering the bathhouse after dark and taking the bathhouse drunk. It was a big offense to rush a person taking a steam bath or leave a child unattended in the bathhouse - they could be dragged away by the bathhouse spirit. 
If you are going to build on your summer cottage bathhouse, we hope that our little tips were useful to you. And the long-standing traditions that we told you about will help you not only enjoy visiting the bathhouse, but also be extremely careful near a hot stove and steam. 
After all, a do-it-yourself bath is an exciting and useful activity; perhaps you will be interested in getting acquainted with modern options baths in our video:
Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the series of articles from our readers. In this article, the author shares his personal experience in building a log bathhouse with his own hands. The construction is not finished yet, so we wish him success! If you have recommendations or questions for the author, you are welcome to comment.
Part 1. Foundation
To build the bathhouse, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter section. First of all, after preliminary marking, I cut off the fertile layer over the entire area of the future foundation. This is required to eliminate the processes of decay of plant residues and other organic matter in the basement.
The site is dominated by sandy soil, so the best option will be 50 cm high from the base and 40 cm wide. The contour of the foundation is marked with ropes that are attached to the improvised corners of the internal and external perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took scraps of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, and screwed horizontal shelves on top with self-tapping screws with protruding screws for attaching the rope. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching; it will be easier to work with.
In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus/minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about the methods of marking the foundation in. We continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.
As a result, we get a fully prepared “pit”, where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we check it with a building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level in the highest place of the site 40 cm, in the lowest - 30 cm.
The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs. This will be the center line. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat in both directions from center line respectively, 15-20 cm. This will be required to obtain “shelves” for attaching floor joists and rain tides. In addition, the mistake is practically eliminated when logs, due to miscalculations in the foundation, fall outward or inward, “hanging” in the air.
The bathhouse is connected to the strip foundation to eliminate multidirectional shifts of the bathhouse and stove. The size of the stove platform was chosen as 120*120 cm, as the average size for installing metal stoves under brick lining.
We begin laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten the sand and compact it. We pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to tamp. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave no marks on the compacted surface of the sand.
A day later, after finishing the work, we once again go through the entire base under the foundation with a tamper. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a tamping machine to the work; this will speed up the process slightly. I have the simplest option: a 100 mm beam, a 20x20 mm sole and a handle. The appearance of the finished base and manual tamper is shown below.
We pour it on top of the prepared site for the foundation to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site to prevent water from getting under the foundation.
If you hire a concrete truck, take care to additionally strengthen the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the proposed foundation. The pressure that is created when supplying the mixture can demolish an insufficiently strong structure. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case you need to strengthen the place where you will drain or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.
It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete at one time so as not to get the effect of a layered pie. We cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation moist to avoid cracks in the concrete. We periodically water the foundation with water, not allowing it to dry out.
After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork, unscrewing the screws, which will also be used in subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters – veranda; 4x4 meters – rest room; 2x2 meters – washing room; 2x2 meters - steam room. The location of the ventilation holes is approximately 20 cm from the soil level; if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in winter.
The approximate quantity and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are indicated in the table below.
Part 2. Installation of log house and roof
To bandage a 6x4 meter log house and a chopped veranda you will need 25 bags of moss. When purchasing, make sure that the bag of compacted moss weighs approximately 20 kg. Moss must be elastic, that is, have optimal humidity.
We use “cuckoo flax,” which we collect in late autumn, when all living creatures go to “winter” in the soil and there is no risk of catching a snake with a bunch of moss. Not allowed a large number of sphagnum moss, which is shorter and crumbles when dried. If you completely use only sphagnum, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.
The length of the moss strands should be at least 30 cm, so that when caulking, you can curl the ends and ensure sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, selecting twigs, foreign plants and cones. By the way, if a cone falls into a groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such force, which is enough to lift the log and create a “cold bridge”. This is what log installers did in the old days, and even now this situation is not uncommon if the owner “offends” with money.
We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm beam on the other.
We break through the place where the log comes into contact with the roofing felt with moss.
Mistakes were discovered that were caused by the reluctance of the hewers to do their work efficiently. The grooves were cut using a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit tightly to the body of the log, but in fact there is emptiness inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will be used for caulking increases greatly. And this is if you do the caulking yourself, and the “shabashniks” will only do it external treatment, no one will pierce the insides.
| Material | Volume/quantity | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Edged fence board “inch” for sheathing, 300 mm | 1 m 3 | 4500 rubles |
| Wood screws 50 mm | 2 kg | 300 rubles |
| Moss | 25 bags | 6250 rubles |
| Log house | 1 piece | 72,000 rubles |
| Board 50*150 six-meter | 14 pieces | 3600 rubles |
| Metal tiles, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (additionally ridge and wind protection) | 12 sheets | 31,000 rubles |
| Steam-Wind insulation | 1 roll | 800 rubles |
| Tongue board 20 mm | 1 m 3 | 8500 rubles |
| "Belinka" base | 2.5 liters | 400 rubles |
| "Belinka" glaze composition | 2.5 liters | 600 rubles |
| Total: | 127950 rubles | |
Part 3. Caulking of a log house
The most simple, but tedious job of caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wooden caulking. The iron one with a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, the wooden one is made from hard wood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable material.
Initial view of the groove.
We tuck the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously I used a spatula, but it quickly failed and was not so elastic. Feel free to hammer the groove completely. There is an opinion among ordinary people that there is no need to make the seams tight and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bathhouse is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and the consumption of firewood will be 2-3 times higher.
We hammer the resulting roller with wooden caulk.
If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until we feel the hardness of the wood when struck with iron caulking.
Final view of the caulked groove.
To prevent birds from dragging moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a 100 mm wide jute tape, which will subsequently be treated with impregnation and a glazing compound to match the color of the log. Special “craftsmen” place logs only on jute or flax, but this is unacceptable for a bathhouse. If we have constant humidity in our house, then steam generation is encouraged in the bathhouse. Flax and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and mold.
We receive logs prepared for grinding.
We caulk the corners especially carefully to prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse. Work, if you don’t hire specialists, will be in vain. When attracting “shabashniks” - from 70 to 150 rubles per linear meter.
Part 4. Sanding logs
So, the caulking is completed, the moss is tucked in and compacted in the grooves, we begin to prepare the log house for painting. Currently, the logs look very unpresentable - plane marks, chips and pulled out chips. In addition, the logs are heavily “tanned” in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require removal and sealing with mastic.
The ends of logs that were damaged during storage and transportation also require processing. Here the wood is the loosest, and therefore there is a high probability of rotting and further destruction of the log.
Tools for grinding logs:
- Bulgarian;
- flap sanding wheel;
- soft mop brush;
- putty knife.
The grinder used was the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it passed all the tests with honor and remained operational even after passing 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air is not enough for cooling. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection - a respirator is enough. Working with an angle grinder requires utmost attention. High speeds and a removed protection cover can play a cruel joke on you. All you have to do is lose your vigilance and approach the grinding wheel too quickly, and you are guaranteed to get injured. I walked over the same place on my hand twice - the glove was in shreds and the skin was torn to the flesh.
The grinding wheel was used with 80 grit. After testing and selection, I settled on this value - 60 grit leaves too noticeable marks, and 100 grit clogs very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can continue to use the circle, but the pace of work will slow down and you will simply get tired.
Attention, bonus! I accidentally discovered that if you walk in a circle clogged with dust and resin on the concrete foundation, then sandpaper is cleaned and the circle is ready for use again.
If you don't have the skill and work with caution, you can sand 6-10 squares of wall in a day. The prices of the “shabashniks” fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square and plus they do not stand on ceremony with spending circles. Pay attention to the resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then appear even through a layer of paint.
I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are transformed before my eyes. I encountered a problem that when processing grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on the bottom log. But with further processing, the cuts are ground off well and no marks remain.
Especially a lot of fuss with the corners, high speed grinders and tightness slow down the process. Where the circle is not enough, you will have to switch to a larger one slow way processing - chisel.
When grinding wheel Almost “sat down”, we pass the ends of the logs. It is irrational to use a new circle for the ends - you will have to throw it over a dozen logs.
We seal the ends with wood mastic. At first I used the color “pine”, but then I realized that it was more economical to use White color, since it will be painted under it.
After sanding, the interesting structure of the wood appears, with intricate patterns running throughout the log. Knots and unevenness of the log add log sauna a certain fundamentality, and I was even glad when I came across particularly gnarled specimens.
To get an idea of what the wall would look like after painting, I stopped and prepped the logs. Based on all the combined criteria (quality and price), I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. I pre-treated it with Base, the drying time of which was 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glaze composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a surface that is smooth to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and it has dried, go over the log manually with sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front part of the bathhouse, where guests love to run their hands along the wall and evaluate the work of the master.
The drying time for the first layer is 12 hours; to be sure, I left it for a day and covered it with a second layer. A dark, noble matte shine appeared. Another trick is that after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the jar. We dilute it with a solvent until it looks very pale and go over the second layer of the dried coating. You can do the procedure at any time after coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles a log additionally impregnated with wax. Very pretty.
Along the way, the ends were treated with glazing compound No. 11 (white), which favorably highlights the work already done.
I was completely satisfied with the result, so we continue the grinding we started. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If hired workers can ignore flaws, then the master himself will torment himself for even the smallest mistake. For example, knowing that somewhere at the bottom of the log I missed a cut, like a criminal returning to the scene of a crime, I examined my “jamb” again and again. Until he fixed it.
The log house is becoming more and more beautiful. Don’t forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.
The following photo shows logs treated with Base and the ends sealed with white mastic.
Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look somewhat dark, and I conducted an experiment by painting the log with composition No. 11 (white).
White paint preserves the texture of sanded logs, and I decided to completely paint the veranda. Through the first layer, a slight yellowness of the pine appears, and there is no shine. Very similar to just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. Shine and a certain completeness appear. By the way, buy “Belinka Lazur”, since the white “Belinka Top Lazur” is intended for window frames and costs much more.
Now the bathhouse, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a negative Khokhloma painting. Pleased with the top cross beam- This is a knotty fir tree that gives the structure the appearance of matching the natural style.
We continue the construction of the bathhouse and move on to the stage of laying floors on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the structure) does not prevent drops of slanting rain from entering. In winter, it is possible that snow will blow in and then melt during the thaw. Therefore, let's reverse Special attention preservation of boards and joists, as well as giving the floor surface water-repellent properties along with a good appearance.
Part 5. Veranda floor
The logs will be 50*150 boards placed on edge. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the logs in my case 1000 mm. But I decided to strengthen the structure somewhat and placed the logs in 600 mm increments. It turned out like this.
For the veranda (conditionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I purchased 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the joists and a reserve of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles delivery. Blue stains and mold appeared on some boards, which can be easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, several boards are infested with wood-boring beetles. Its larvae made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. Upon inspection, I didn’t find any more living creatures, and that’s where I calmed down - after drying, the wood doesn’t attract them much, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation so that no plant had a chance to germinate inside the veranda. The boards were marked and sawed according to their location.
Afterwards, I removed the boards, numbering them by location, and began processing the joists. I used a powerful antiseptic made in Yaroslavl. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired confidence in me. Wood preservation is declared for 45 years, subject to impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of solution per square meter, i.e. Apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. The antiseptic is yellow, so the coating is clearly visible. When dry it becomes dark brown.
Next came the turn of processing the boards. First, I passed over the surface located below and on the sides of the boards with a flap emery wheel attached to a grinder to remove the lint. This way we ensure better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a wheel with grit 100. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lowest price category. If you are afraid of making ruts and holes, then try sanding part of the board with a hammered wheel to gain a little experience. Don't forget to chamfer the edges of the board.
Attention, bonus! To ensure that the floor surface is ideal to the touch and pleasant to the feet, walk over the sanded board with a mild soap solution. Apply with a brush or roller. When dry, the raised residual pile will become hard and can be easily knocked off with sandpaper even in manual mode.
We lay the boards on the logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a “standard” we take an ordinary nail, which we place vertically between the boards.
Since I have the boards natural humidity, maybe a little drier, that is, they are likely to warp during the drying process. That is why I decided to use screw nails rather than self-tapping screws for fastening. A self-tapping screw is a weaker fastener for lateral loads and can simply burst. To prevent rust from spreading to the boards, cover the head of the nail with wood mastic.
Do you see the nail? And he is here!
In the process of laying the boards, I begin to process them. I had the choice of using oil as a coating for open terraces Alpina or Belinka glaze composition. I liked the second option better. Firstly, both oil and Belinka Base penetrate deeply into the wood and protect it from moisture. Secondly, the tinting of the oil and Belinka No. 24 are almost similar. Thirdly, oil and glaze composition, which do not have high abrasion resistance, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.
After the first layer of Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and give it another day to dry. And the culminating moment comes - coating with Belinka No. 24 glazing compound. If you want more effect and shine of the floor, then purchase Top Azure.
–––––– Six months have passed ––––––
It’s been a long time since my last story, and the construction of the bathhouse has gradually moved forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust covens. I contacted them twice (assembling the frame and installing the roof) and was very dissatisfied with the result.
I looked at the bathhouse from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. I placed the clapboard in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.
The fit of the boards to the gable turned out to be quite tight, so I will do without an additional baseboard and leave it as is.
The pediment was painted the same color as the bathhouse, and a side board with pretend carvings was installed. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws – 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think it’s quite inexpensive for such a result.
Last year I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I just covered it with base, and the temperatures started to drop below zero. Just the other day, having chosen a period without rain, I walked with two layers of white Belinka. I liked the result, but I’m thinking of securing it with a third layer.
So, new season construction of the bathhouse opened. In the fall, I managed to capture several fine days with positive temperatures, which allowed me to finally make a window and a door. The technology for preparing openings is standard. We mark and cut out to form a spike on the log. For the window opening I used 100*200 timber, and for the door frame I used 100*250 timber. At the sawmill they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks to special order. They charged ridiculous amounts of money - about 2,500 rubles including delivery.
On site, the timber was sawn into the required lengths. The window opening turned out to be clean 50*50 centimeters, the door was clean 70*160. So let’s really implement the ancient commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. The upper level of the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I cut a groove on the beam to the size of the tenon on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. Fastened to a tenon roll insulation 20 centimeters wide, I think it’s linen, I don’t remember what I bought. Vertical beam went in tight, and horizontal sections were used as spacers. The gap from the top post to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.
A quarter is selected on the window for ease of installation of plastic. Spacers are installed in the door, because during natural drying the timber may become deformed.
What's planned. The window is plastic with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window I inserted polystyrene foam and used insulating tape to mark the future product.
The door is metal with insulation along the leaf and jambs. At the company where the doors are made, the director is a good friend of mine, we discussed all the details and, I hope, we will get a good product. By door leaf there will be a wooden overlay 1.5 centimeters thick. Using the overlay, I will age the wood, make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden crossbars. But that’s in the future, but now I’m busy landscaping the veranda.
We have one master who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and very inexpensively. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. Following tradition, I covered it with Belinka base, Rosewood glazing compound and deck varnish from the same company.
Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the level of the veranda, I realized that I needed a porch. The plans were to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to limit myself to a temporary building. Although the temporary hut turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get tired of it. On the sides I used logs that remained from cutting out the openings, and on the steps I used a 50*150 board. He placed stones from a nearby quarry on the base.
And now about the urgent matter. First, I apply caulking inside the log house. The logs have already settled in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led, what wanted - sat on its own permanent place. Accordingly, cracks have appeared inside that require careful sealing.
External inspection confirmed good quality caulking. Nothing fell out, the birds didn’t act up, and the moss lay as planned. When I cut out the openings, the moss compacted into one dense and hard strip, it was even difficult to disassemble, but such strips are good for filling cracks. I made another caulk from birch. The spatula turned out to be wider and larger; a two-kilogram sledgehammer fits perfectly with it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log lies too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is long, but mandatory if you don’t want to steam in felt boots in winter. Secondly, I inspected the foundation. There are slight chips on the outside, but these are sagging during pouring and do not affect the quality. However, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover facade paint. I haven't chosen the manufacturer or color yet. Last year I installed ebb tides, which performed well even with a serious snow load. And thirdly, I will count the snow guards. When last year a crust formed on the roof after an icy rain and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, there was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.
Well, I’ll tell you what I do to keep my bathhouse warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from the Izistim company for 58,000 rubles. I took a long time to choose, tediously, read all the reviews and realized - this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the company’s official website, where it is given detailed description. While the stove is standing on the street in front of the bathhouse, I still need to figure out how to carefully drag 130 kg of metal, especially since I don’t have floors yet and there are 600 bricks stacked on the ground. It turned out that these stoves are made literally right next door to me, so I had the honor of communicating directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to stand next to the stainless sleeve. The structure will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless steel pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm there, from the Izistim company. Literally a week later I received my order. Laser welding, high quality and reasonable price. In terms of money, the pleasure amounted to 11,500 full rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT company.
The complete set includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensation, and a type of adapter with a platform that will allow you to firmly fix the chimney in brick pipe. The structure on the right in the photo is a horizontal section of pipe from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel, 4 mm thick, was made at EasySteam for 4,300 rubles.
Naturally, I didn’t bother going shopping and bought convection doors without leaving the checkout. Comfortable constipation, normal appearance and additional sheets metal for fixing products in brick.
I purchased Kostroma clay brick grade 150, which is enough for lining a stove. The geometry of the brick is normal; if necessary, the edges can be rounded to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk stamps 200. Each one for me the brick cost 25 rubles apiece.
I didn’t bother with clay, which still needs to be mined somewhere and a solution prepared, since I don’t have any special skills. I purchased the ready-made mixture " Stove house Makarovs" produced in Kostroma, Gzhel colors. They also have a white clay mixture for the aesthetes. It was not possible to find the stove makers - everyone was busy. The cost for craftsmen starts from 40 rubles per brick on the lining and 60 rubles per brick on the pipe. You can calculate the cost of the work yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will take longer.
Part 6. Oven
“And the battle begins again” - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and landscaping internal space. The heart of the sauna is the stove. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and other rooms are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, your feet and ears should be warm even in winter, and not steam with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time wearing felt boots so that your feet don’t freeze. Secondly, the inertia of the sauna stove must be present in order to be able to stop flooding and steam without running around for firewood with constant support desired temperature. It is advisable to keep the heat in the bathhouse for two or three days to dry the premises. And thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but is located in the washing compartment in the remote tank.
After building a house on their plot, most land owners think about building a good steam room there. In this case, the work is supposed to be done with your own hands, and the bathhouse should be built quickly, cheaply and very simply. Satisfying such criteria is not so easy, but it is still possible.
It’s hardly worth relying on other people’s projects or ordering overly expensive ones individual plans the buildings. In most cases, a small building is required to meet the needs of a family of 2-3 people.
The foundation is the basis of everything
For most self-contained buildings with small physical activity The following types of foundations are used:
- poured concrete;
- support-columnar;
- on pile-screw supports;
- tape-block.
The simplest is the support-column base. It is used both for frame buildings and timber. This is where the cheap one starts frame bath, built with your own hands.
For support, cement blocks (cinder block) with dimensions of 200x200x400 mm are used. They are mounted according to a prepared template at the corners of a conventional 2x2 m grid. Accordingly, in order to build a 12 m2 bathhouse with your own hands cheaply and step by step, as shown here, you will need approximately 9 such supports. Each of them contains 4 blocks.
Before installation, it is necessary to level the site, and laying should be carried out according to the construction hydraulic level. First you need to pour a layer of sand under the base and compact it. From this stage it is possible to envisage the installation of a weir.
When using screw piles, it is unlikely that it will be possible to reduce the final cost below the price of a strip foundation. However, for wetlands or soil with high level groundwater this solution would be appropriate. In such a situation, you can save money by installing it yourself without involving third-party specialists or equipment.
You can build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply and strip foundation from blocks. For a building of 12 m2, you will need an amount of 6,000 rubles, taking into account the fact that the installation is carried out independently, as well as the preparation of the solution. This will reduce costs.
For most types of foundations, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a sand cushion.
Current building materials
When building walls for a cheap bathhouse with your own hands (there is a video on the website), you can use a large amount modern materials. They have a lot of positive qualities, but the most accessible of them, and at the same time effective, are the following:
- wooden beam;
- wood concrete;
- use of an insulated frame.
In our country, it is enough to use 100 mm thick timber for the outer walls of a bathhouse, which will be used from late spring to late autumn. During installation of the timber, it is necessary to install dowels at least every 0.9-1.0 m. For the classic size of 12 m2, it will be enough to stock up on 62 beams. Such a DIY sauna will definitely be cheaper than its larger counterparts.
Inter-crown insulation is used in the process. The total amount of these materials will be about 25...30 thousand rubles. If you buy all this from a wholesale warehouse or directly from the manufacturer, you can save money.
When building the cheapest wood concrete bathhouse with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following amount of material:
- about 20 bags of cement;
- a quarter or a third of a cube of sawdust;
- sand 2.5-3.0 tons;
- about 1 m 3 of lumber;
- sufficient amount of water.
When pouring a sawdust bath, wait 2-3 days each time for the layer to harden, and only after that the formwork is rearranged. It is necessary to take into account that with this method, the maximum cost of constructing walls is unlikely to exceed 12,000-15,000 rubles.
When building walls from this material, you will need to spend a lot of time protecting them from moisture in the steam room. Increased waterproofing will protect the material from destruction by water.
Construction from wood concrete
In addition to a cheap bathhouse made of timber or wood concrete, you can build a frame structure with your own hands. At the same time, it will need to be reliably insulated. For an estimated building of 12 m2 area, you need to stock up on 3 m3 beams. You will also need to include insulation in the estimate. In the lightweight version, 10 cm thickness is enough. If during construction you use basalt wool, then the final cost of the walls will not exceed 25,000 rubles. At the same time, the advantage of this variety mineral wool is its maximum fire safety.
Floor installation
Any sauna built with your own hands, cheaply and quickly, cannot do without a reliable floor. For its installation, various paired circuits tested by many owners are used. In most cases, you have to use the double base option.
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- Pre-arranged sand cushion 150 mm, which can be poured and compacted for better installation.
- Base surface then the concrete is poured at 70-80 mm.
- Top layer a mesh strip protrudes, knocked into rigid frame. This flooring can be moved and laid as desired.
After each visit, it is advisable to dry and ventilate the wooden frames from the floor outside the walls of the steam room.
The total cost, which includes sand, cement and slats, will be approximately 3000-4000 rubles.
Even before laying and installing the floor surface in the bathhouse, you need to drain it and drain it into a waste pit outside. To avoid odor, it is necessary to use ready-made gutters with water seals.
Working with the ceiling
When working with the ceiling, you need to adhere to certain tricks, only then will you be able to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the video. You cannot use excessively thin lining to cover the ceiling; this applies to a thickness of about 15 mm, as it quickly absorbs moisture and becomes damp. It is necessary to take boards of about 30 mm thickness, which will save on insulation.
Scheme of a quality ceiling
In the old days, a mixture of earth or clay mixed with dry leaves was used to insulate ceilings. This natural option remains in demand today, when you need to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the photo. Sawdust can be used instead of leaves.
For a project of 12 m2, it is enough to have 17 prepared boards with tongues in stock to cover the entire ceiling. Before filling in the insulation, a layer of glassine must be laid on the outside.
A pitched roof will take about 0.7 m3 wooden beams. They are covered with two layers of roofing material, and the seams are glued with bitumen. Such a roof can last up to five years without leaking.
VIDEO: Sauna for a summer residence - very fast and very cheap
