Decoration of the floor of the 2nd floor above the staircase. Determination of the necessary parameters of the staircase opening. Calculation of a spiral staircase

A staircase is an indispensable element for multi-storey buildings without an elevator or bunk apartments. At the same time, stairs are also important for one-story buildings: the difference in the level of the ground and the house, one way or another, will differ due to the foundation, and it will simply be impossible to get into the attic or basement without a ladder. Let’s take a closer look at how stairs are modeled and which projects are the most popular today.

The ease of use and safety of the ladder depends on the size and ratio of all its elements. The dimensions of any (from straight to screw) structure are regulated by the “Building Codes and Rules”, on the basis of which all calculations and design of stairs must be made.

Thus, comfortable and reliable internal stairs in a residential area should have:

1. The width of the flight of stairs is within 1.25-1.5 meters (for country houses width can be reduced to 800 cm).
2. Minimum tilt angle is 35 degrees, max is 45.
3. The height of the passage is at least two meters or 50 mm greater than the height of the tallest resident.
4. The depth of the treads is 250-350 mm, and the height of the riser is 150-250 mm.
5. Balusters 900 mm high, handrails that are easy to grip.

The number of steps in a flight is measured according to the individual parameters of the room. To do this, the ceiling height (3000 or 2700 cm depending on the building) is divided by optimal height riser. The resulting value is rounded up.

Staircase diagram and methods for modeling it

The schematic plan of the staircase contains instructions for all sizes of structural elements. So, the drawing should indicate the height and width of the steps, the length of the stringers, the angle of inclination of the structure, the dimensions of the marching and winder steps, and the transition platform. You can draw a diagram of the staircase on paper, carrying out the calculations yourself, or create it using online calculators with a designer for designing stairs (we design structures very carefully, carefully checking the obtained values ​​with SNiP, because the reliability of the staircase depends on this).

The disadvantage of online programs is that the resulting model of the staircase is typical, and the design itself is shown schematically. It is quite possible that such modeling will not be suitable for rooms with non-standard parameters and ceiling openings. Computer visualization will help you create a more detailed staircase design with two or three dimensions.

Today, the most popular programs for designing stairs are:

1. Sweet Home 3D.
2. SketchUp.
3. Pro100.
4. Autocad.
5. Sema.

The executive diagram of the staircase is drawn for each group separately (if the design is complex, then a separate drawing may be needed for each stair element).

In order to understand how the calculated structure will look, visual kirigami models are often used, from which one can easily build the structure to scale.

House project with stairs in the living room

The staircase in the living room should not only be a functional, reliable and safe lifting element, but also have an attractive appearance, emphasizing the style of the room and the taste preferences of the owners.

The choice of staircase type depends on the dimensions of the room. To avoid overloading small room, it is better to choose open structures with light carved fences and thin bowstrings. Curvilinear stairs or structures on rails are perfect.

A spiral staircase to the second floor can be placed in the middle of the room: such an element will become not only practical, but also decorative, and will fit perfectly into the interior of loft-style rooms. For minimalist living rooms, you can choose compact staircases on rails, which will emphasize the geometry of the lines and the openness of the space.

Staircases for large apartments should be spectacular, emphasizing the breadth of space and harmonizing with it. The most popular stairs to the large hall are made of solid wood (oak, beech, ash). Often such stairs are made closed, and the space under the stairs is decorated with built-in appliances, furniture, and niches. It is convenient if there is a doorway opposite such a staircase.

You can make a straight, wide wooden staircase to the hall with your own hands: you need to carry out calculations or find finished project, purchase lumber and construction tools.

Practical design of a staircase outside the house

Most often, the role of external, main staircases is performed by concrete and reinforced concrete structures, the support for which is fixed in the ground. Such stairs are created by installing formwork, reinforcement and pouring concrete; they are durable and have a high load capacity.

Finishing of entrance stairs can be done using:

• Wood (oak, beech, hornbeam and other hardwoods).
• Natural stone (granite, marble, quartz).
• Artificial stone.
• Brick.
• Ceramic tiles (frost- and UV-resistant floor, concrete, sidewalk tiles).

If the porch finish has a smooth surface, then the steps should be equipped with anti-slip thresholds: this will increase the safety level of the stairs in winter.

The location is considered the most convenient external staircase directly in front of the entrance to the house. If this is not possible, then a porch or platform is built in front of the door, to which a staircase leads. In addition, lifting outdoor installation can be remote and lead directly to the premises of the upper floors (bypassing the first), to a balcony or attic.

Such a staircase can be:

• Direct (for example, mine).
• Curvilinear (for example, screw).

Most often, such stairs are made of metal. The main thing is that when placing such a structure, it should not interfere with the passage into the house and the entrance to the garage; preferably, it should not block the windows.

Staircase in a narrow hallway opening

Often corridor openings in private houses look like elongated polygons small sizes(this can often be found in houses made of 8x8 timber). In such buildings, a staircase option is needed that can effectively save space, while looking attractive and being reliable.

The most popular stairs that can save a square meter are:

1. Corner staircase with a winder platform. Is an ideal option. Using a platform instead of steps makes the stairs more convenient and safe for small children and the elderly.
2. Samba type staircase (" goose step"). This design saves space as much as possible, but can be inconvenient when ascending (you must always start with one foot) and descending (due to the small width of the step).
3. Vertical staircase. Both a spiral and a straight (modular or extension) staircase can be successfully placed even in a very small corridor.

Staircase in narrow corridor can be made of wood or metal. The choice of frame depends not only on the type of structure, but also on the design of the corridor. For loft and hi-tech interiors, compact spiral staircases are suitable, the supports for which are presented in the form of metal racks (the steps, however, can be made of wood, glass or metal mesh).

Owners of apartments in Scandinavian style, classic or country interiors, you should opt for wooden structures on the bowstrings.

Ceiling opening for stairs: design compliance

The type of staircase is determined not only by the layout of the hallway or living room, but also by the parameters of the opening in the ceiling. The ceiling opening is the opening into which the flight of stairs opens. This gap can be of almost any size and shape.

So, for a narrow, rectangular opening (in a living room) the following would be ideal: an L-shaped staircase and a “goose step” type structure. You can try using a ladder on rails, making the upper steps a little shorter than the lower ones (the transition should be smooth, and the length of the upper steps should be at least 750 mm). If the opening is very small, then you should choose modular stairs on one stringer or attached structures.

An ideal option for round openings would be spiral staircases. The angle of rotation of such structures is determined by the height of the ceilings, and can be completely different.

Small ceiling openings in utility rooms can be equipped with retractable ladders that can be easily attached to the manhole cover.

What should be the openings for stairs (video)

Today it is impossible to imagine a single building without a staircase: these installations have found application even in one-story houses(For example, entrance stairs). You can choose a ready-made project or design an individual staircase using programs for 2 and 3D visualization. The main thing is that the design is durable and safe, has an attractive appearance!

A beautiful and comfortable staircase to the second floor is the result of precise calculations

Dimensions are an important indicator when designing a house. Despite the apparent lightness, the parameters of all elements (steps, railings, platforms, supports) must strictly comply with GOSTs to ensure the safety and practicality of the structure. For calculation there is a set of rules, calculations, norms and regulations. At the initial design stage, the type, design and material of the staircase to the second floor are determined, depending on architectural features Houses.

The choice of material depends both on the location of the staircase and on its purpose. The main materials for the manufacture of stairs are:

• Reinforced concrete. They can be completely concrete or combined with elements made of wood and metal (railings and fencing). Concrete structures are heavy and are installed mainly in spacious mansions and big houses. These are strong and durable structures that are difficult to damage or break.

  

  Reinforced concrete staircase with wrought iron railings

  

  Despite its mass, reinforced concrete stairs can look very elegant

  
  

  

  A spiral staircase made of wood looks very elegant and expensive

  
  

  

  Architects sometimes create truly unusual metal structures

  

  On outdoors install all-metal structures

  • Other materials. At individual design houses can use glass or plastic products (the frame is usually metal). These are not cheap designs that can accept the most fancy shapes and decorate any design.

    

    The glass staircase will become the central element of any interior

    Construction and fastenings

    The most popular staircase designs:

    
    
    • . The most popular, practical option and is divided:

    Single march. Standard designs no platforms.

    
    This is perhaps the most convenient type of stairs to the second floor

    Multi-march. With one platform and two flights, located at 90 and 180 degrees.

    
    Options for double flight stairs

    Rotary structures. Combine features on the second floor. There are right and left.

    
    The turning staircase combines the convenience of a flight and elegance screw design

    Stair angle

    After choosing the type and material, it is necessary to calculate the angle of inclination and height of the passage. The angle of inclination, in addition to ease of use, affects the area of ​​space occupied by the stairs in the house. In practice there is standard types tilt:

    • The most popular tilt angles are 30–45 degrees. They are easy to lift, but take up a large number of opening of the second floor.
    • Standard angle 45 degrees. is the most comfortable for a person.
    • Structures with an angle of 45 to 50 degrees. stand out for their maximum space savings, but are not very inconvenient to use and are dangerous due to their steepness.

    

    Using this diagram you can choose optimal inclination stairs

    When calculating the angle, it is necessary to take into account the height of the opening. This indicator measures the distance between the step and the ceiling, and should not be less than two meters. It ensures comfortable passage for a person of standard height throughout the entire ascent to the second floor.

    Video cheat sheet for calculating the angle of inclination of the march and the size of the steps

    Height and depth of steps

    When determining the height of the step (riser) and the width of the tread, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the optimal height of the leg rise is ¼ of the step. The average step of an adult is 60–80 cm. When multiplied, we obtain a riser height of 15–20 cm. With lower values, a person will simply step over one step, and with larger values, it will be difficult to raise his leg.

    

    Optimal parameters of steps

    When calculating the width of the tread, the size of a person’s foot is taken into account. It averages 27–30 cm. For optimal descent or ascent, it is necessary that the step covers at least 90 percent of the area of ​​the foot. Having made the calculations, we get a tread width of 24–27 cm. Taking into account the protrusion of the step, we add 3 cm and get the final tread size of 27–30 cm. This figure is half a step and is the most comfortable. The height and depth of the step are interrelated quantities and, when calculated, remain the same along the entire length.

    Calculation of step heights

    March width

    The distance between handrails or from wall to handrail is called usable width march. Minimum indicator is 80 cm. In this case, a person can comfortably move up the stairs to the second floor, but transporting large-sized cargo becomes inconvenient and difficult.

    

    When choosing the width of a flight of stairs, also focus on the expected “load” of the stairs

    Important!

    The optimal march size is 100 cm. This option is comfortable in every sense if there is enough space.

    For wooden stairs, the width of the flight is determined depending on the design of the supports in the form of a bowstring or stringer:

    • A bowstring is a wooden support in the form of a beam onto which the steps are attached. They are inserted into the grooves of the beam milled at the end. The width of the flight with this design can be calculated by adding the length of the steps and twice the thickness of the string with further subtraction of the double depth of the groove.

    

    The bowstring ladder looks quite sophisticated

    Example. With a step length of 90 cm, a beam thickness of 40 cm and a groove depth of 12 cm:

    2x40+900- 2x12= 956 cm

    • Stringers are beams located at an angle with cut combs for installing steps. With this method, the width of the march is equal to the length of the steps.

    

    A staircase on stringers will fit perfectly into a modern interior

    Number and height of steps

    An example of calculating the length of a flight of stairs with a floor height of 3 meters. With a step height of 19 cm, the number of ascents is calculated using the formula:

    3000 mm (floor height)/19 (estimated step height) = 15.8 (number of rises).

    X = 3000/16 = 187.5 mm.

    Moreover, 16 climbs are 15 steps. A floor ceiling height of 300 mm minus the step height does not provide the required technological value for attaching the stairs, so the size of the first step is reduced:

    300-(100+40) = 160 mm.

    The height of all steps is recalculated:

    3000-160 = 2840 mm.

    Step height:

    2840/15 = 189.34 mm.

    Calculation of the flight of stairs

    To calculate the span length you need to know the width of the tread. For comfortable movement, 280 mm is quite suitable:

    280 * 15 = 4020 mm.

    The length of the march is almost 4 meters (4020 mm).

    Calculation of passage height

    For example, the opening length is 3500 mm. The difference between the length of the march to the second floor and the opening is calculated:

    4020-3500 = 520 mm.

    Now the step that is projected at the end of the opening onto the second floor is calculated:

    520/280= 2 pcs.

    This means that the next step is the 3rd and serves as a passage under the ceiling (ceiling). All that remains is to calculate the dimensions of the passage. The height from the floor to the 3rd step is:

    3*189.34 (step height) = 568 mm.

    Height to ceiling at passage point:

    3000-300(floor thickness of 2 floors)-568 = 2132 mm.

    

    Another example of calculating the number and size of steps

    Calculation of a staircase with a platform and rotating elements

    Straight flight structures take up a lot of space during installation, so country house or at the dacha, where there is no large areas, to save space, products with rotating platforms or screw ones are used. The calculation of such structures is no more complicated than direct ones, if you take into account the following points:

    • The platform is a continuation of the march while maintaining the height of the step.
    • The dimensions of the site are equal to the width of the flight, but for 180° rotating views this parameter must increase and must be at least 130 cm.

    

    Dimensions of an average turning staircase

    In our article you can get acquainted with this issue in more detail.

    If there are winder steps in the project, it should be taken into account that:

    • When turning 90 othe optimal number of steps is 3.
    • All elements of the steps in the form of a wedge must fit into the square of the planar projection.
    • The width of the winder steps should not exceed 40 cm.
    • The radius of rotational curvature of the elements is from 30 cm.
    • The tread size does not exceed 10 cm. has a number of other nuances that are important to consider.

      Railings and fences

      Fences with railings are an integral part of the march or spiral staircase, regardless of its design and length. Their goal is to make it easier to climb to the floor, and, most importantly, to ensure safety and prevent falls.

      

      Plus, the railings can become a real decoration of the entire staircase structure

      The dimensions of the handrails are usually based on the parameters of the average adult:

      • The height of the fences with railings is 100 cm.
      • The width of the railing is 12 cm.

      Advice!

      For children, it is not worth reducing the height of the fences, but it is necessary to take care additional fencing. The height of such railings should be between 72–75 cm.

      When installing fences, you need to calculate their ability to withstand pressure under a load of 100 kg. Between the balusters, in the absence of protection, the distance should not exceed 150 mm (if there are children in the house, the limit is 120 mm).

      Other indicators and parameters

      When calculating staircase structures, other parameters should be taken into account:

      • The distance between the posts supporting the railing (10–15 cm).
      • The load on the stairs to the second floor should not exceed 220 kg.
      • There should be from 3 to 18 steps in the march.
      • The dimensions of the support beams (stringers) with a step width of 20 cm should not exceed 2.5 cm.
      • If there is a door on the second floor, it should be at a safe distance from the last step (at least 1 meter).

      Summarize

      As a result, to make and install a staircase to the second floor you need to:

      • Determine the location of the walls, the presence of doors, calculate the distance between all structural elements.
      • Choose a type depending on the size of the space in the house and the angle of inclination.
      • Calculate all the necessary dimensions: width of the flight, platforms, height of steps.
      • Make a project and make an estimate.

      Correct and exact calculations They will help you make a comfortable and safe staircase to the second floor, where each step will be the same size and there will be no sudden changes or steep climbs.

      Calculation of reinforced concrete airway

Staircase in a house with several levels required element design and interior. Occupying a fairly significant volume of the house, it imposes certain restrictions and requirements in interior design. How to make a lift to the second floor or to the attic so that there is a dead zone under the flight and the device stairwells didn’t “eat up” most of the area of ​​the premises? What should be the decoration of the stairwell and the design of the staircase? We will try to find answers to these and other questions related to the construction of stairs.

Let's understand the terms

With all the variety of designs for vertical movement that surround us in public and private homes, there are not many options. Regardless of the device, they consist of the same elements:

1. Herself staircase design. The staircase can be straight, spiral, with an intermediate or turning platform, with winder steps. The methods of fastening the steps also differ: on bowstrings, stringers, bolts, central support pillar, modular design.
2. Fencing. Stair railing is primarily necessary to ensure safe movement - it protects a person from falling and provides support when climbing. Secondly, the fence is an important decorative part. In addition to the march itself, the areas are fenced off. The staircase railings are made in the same style as the railings.

The height of the fence on the site is higher than the railing. The march fencing is made at least 900 mm, and the platform fencing is 1100 mm.

1. Stairway. A staircase opening is an opening in the ceiling through which a staircase passes. Therefore, it is not possible to close the stairwell. It is possible to cover the staircase opening in small areas attic stairs, when the folding structure is connected to a hatch that closes the hole leading to the attic. Although, most often, when people ask the question of how to close a staircase, they simply do not understand the terms. Apparently, there is a need to cover the staircase. The stairwell is the space occupied by the stairs. The need for overlap may arise to reduce the intensity of convective flows moving in the shaft from the first to the second floor. The simplest solution is to make a closed staircase. Then you can block the entrance by installing a regular door in front of the entrance to the stairs.

Flies and cutlets

Having understood the terms, it becomes clear that the design of a staircase opening cannot be particularly diverse. The hole in the ceiling is rectangular for a regular staircase, and round for a spiral staircase. Some freedom in choosing the configuration can be allowed for the fan model.

The width of the staircase depends on the width of the flight. For a single-flight structure, the width of the hole is made equal to the width of the flight plus gaps for attaching the fence. For a two-flight, respectively, double the width of the march. The length of the hole is calculated depending on the slope of the stairs. The hole in the ceiling should be such that, standing on any step, a person of average height does not rest his head on the ceiling.

When calculating, a distance of 2000 mm is usually taken from the surface of any step to the ceiling, i.e. to the ceiling of the first floor. Where this distance becomes less than 2 meters, the hole begins. As a rule, the length of the opening is less than the length of the flight (the projection of an inclined flight onto a horizontal plane) by about a meter. That is, starting from the third or fourth stage.

The staircase opening to the second floor must be located in such a way that when exiting the stairs there is a free platform, at least a meter long. If the doors of premises open onto the landing of the second floor, then the size of the landing should take into account the possibility of simultaneous opening of the doors and the passage of a person along the stairs. So that the one who was in the room would not hit the person rising with the opening door.

Decorating the walls of the stairwell is also an irrelevant issue, as is the design. It is unlikely that anyone is very interested in how to finish the visible part of the end of the ceiling. If the staircase is adjacent to a wall, then it becomes part of the walls of the staircase. In the case where the opening is made in the middle of the room, the end of the ceiling, visible when going up, can be plastered and painted, like a window slope. IN wooden floor the vertical part of the ceiling opening can be made of wood.

Staircase design

If the design of a staircase is a meaningless concept, then the design of a staircase is very relevant. The complexity of the issue is that a staircase is a spatial structure connecting the first and second floors of a building. In most cases, on the second floor or in the attic of a private house there is a private area - bedrooms, and the “public” part, the living room, dining room, is located on the first floor. The interior design of these rooms can be radically different, and the staircase and the decoration of the walls of the staircase must fit harmoniously into both interiors.

If you can only get into the attic by placing a stool on a chair, or if you have to tiptoe through the bedroom to get to the study on the second floor, if in order to get to the basement you have to run through the rain and cold, then you need new staircase. The first stage of creating a staircase is making a hole in the ceiling and installing new beams along its boundaries. Due to the fact that when installing a new staircase, the floor area on two floors changes greatly, it is necessary to carefully consider the location of the hole for the staircase. Try to position the stairs so that existing walls do not have to be moved or removed. For a normal turn on the stairs when entering and exiting it, there must be a space between the upper or lower step and the wall that is at least as wide as the width of the stairs. Also try to position it in such a way that its installation does not affect electrical wiring and water or heating pipes. And if you can plan the staircase so that the hole in the ceiling is located along the beams, you will simplify the job of installing the beams framing the hole, since if the hole is transverse to the beams, you will have to install six new beams.

At the very beginning of planning the location of the stairs, consult with a specialist supervising the quality of construction. Building codes and regulations determine minimum width and the clearance of stairs. It is these dimensions that determine the dimensions of the hole in the ceiling. If the staircase leads to one room (other than the kitchen or living room), it can be only 600mm wide. In most other cases, the minimum width is 800 mm. The length of a standard stair opening should provide sufficient space between the ceiling and the steps. Building regulations require a height of at least 2 m, but remember that the greater the clearance, the more comfortable it will be for tall people to walk and the easier it will be to move furniture. The dimensions of the opening in the ceiling depend on the type of staircase being installed. The rules for constructing an opening are basically the same for any type of staircase and are described on these pages for the case of installing a staircase in a basement. Once you have determined the dimensions of the opening, add at least 50mm on all sides for finishing once the stairs are installed. To cut an opening, you need to remove part of the floor, cut the beams and remove part of the ceiling (this does not apply to the one shown here basement devoid of a ceiling). For subsequent finishing of the opening, use pieces of boards removed from the ceiling, which can be used to cover the protruding additional longitudinal and transverse beams. Cover the edges of the plaster and the ends of the floor boards with boards or plywood that are nailed to the joists of the opening. To create a more attractive appearance, cover the gaps with platbands. An unguarded opening for stairs is dangerous and is not allowed building regulations. Your job is not finished until you enclose it with a balustrade or simple railing.

Anatomy of a staircase. If the opening is along the beams, remove parts of two beams and connect the hanging ends of the beams to the remaining beams using two short cross beams . The cross beams must have a thickness and height equal to the corresponding parameters of the main beams, and are attached with angles to additional beams installed along the long sides of the opening. In the example shown here, the right longitudinal beam of the opening consists of an existing beam attached to a new beam. On the left, in order to obtain the required opening width, two new beams were installed between the existing floor beams. If the opening is located next to stone wall

1. , the cross beams can be embedded at one end into the wall. Installation of jack stands.

2. Mark the planned opening on the lower surface of the floor, adding 50 mm on all sides for finishing. For most stairs, mark out as described on the following pages. Add reinforcement beams to each long side of the opening and then install support beams and adjustable jack stands outside the narrow sides of the opening about 500mm away. At each corner, drill holes in the floor from bottom to top. Open up the holes.

3. Go to the top and locate the holes drilled in the corners of the opening. Measure 100 mm from each hole along the opening to install the cross beams. Mark four chalk lines to mark the elongated hole. Make cuts along the two sides of the hole, at right angles to the floor boards, then make cuts parallel to the floor boards. Removing floor boards.

4. Knock out the sawn pieces of floor boards by hitting them from below with a piece of board. Finish the top with a claw crowbar. Saw the beams flush with the opening, having a helper support the beam from below so that it does not jam the saw. The cut parts of the beams can be used to make double cross beams, which are needed to strengthen the opening. Cut two pieces of beam to fit the hole and fasten them together with 100mm long bolts or nails, driven in a staggered pattern.

5. Installation of cross beams. Nail 100mm wide brackets to each end of the double cross beam. Press the cross beam against the sawn ends of the beams, aligning their top edges. Nail the brackets to the longitudinal beams, driving nails into all holes in the brackets. Place 50mm wide brackets into the joints between the sawn beams and the cross beam and nail them in place. Finally, nail the cross beam to the ends of the sawn beams using two 150mm nails. Install the second cross beam in the same way.

Very often, when a building requires expansion of the living space, the attic space is turned into a room, but at the same time there is a need to install a staircase that will connect it with the rest of the living space.

This need also arises if we are talking about a two or more storey building. In order to build interlevel staircase, you must first break through the staircase opening in the ceiling. Photos and descriptions of the process will be presented in this article.

Preparing for the arrangement of the staircase

Before you get started, there are a few things you need to think about important points, on which the success of the entire enterprise will directly depend:

Location of the hole. The location of the opening should be carefully considered, at the same time taking into account that the floor will become noticeably smaller, because In order to turn normally when walking up the stairs, you need to leave a space between the wall and the upper and lower steps that is not narrower than the stairs themselves. Its optimal location is considered to be one in which the hole in the slab runs along the beams.

Width of the stairs. If there is one room on the floor where the staircase leads, then its width is at least 60 cm. But if there are several rooms on the floor, then it is made wider.

The staircase opening cut into the slab must be of a length that leaves sufficient space between the ceiling and the steps.

The distance between the edge beam limiting the hole in the ceiling and the steps must be at least 2 m. This determines the ease of use of the staircase.

The size of the staircase opening. When deciding on the dimensions, you should take into account the type and design of the staircase that will subsequently be installed. To install a straight staircase you will need much more space than, for example, a spiral staircase. Having decided on the length and width of the staircase opening, you need to add 5 cm on each side for finishing.

Before you start making a hole in the ceiling, you need to partially dismantle the floor covering, cut the beams and remove the ceiling section. Flooring boards should not be thrown away because... they may be useful in further work.

Cutting a hole in a wooden ceiling

To make a hole in a wooden ceiling you will need not that much complex instrument, For example:

a circular saw;

self-tapping screws;

screwdriver;

wooden beams;

metal corners.

If a hole for an opening is cut in the interior of a residential building, then the beams that form it must be fastened between the floor beams.

Actions must be carried out in this order:

in the section of the floor where the opening will be located, it is necessary to cut one beam or two, if there is not enough space, but more than this amount cannot be cut due to the risk of collapse;

attach paired beams, to which 2 more beams will then be attached, forming an opening parallel to the beams running in a row. After this, short ones are attached to them, providing greater rigidity and strengthening the structure. The dimensions of the paired beams must exactly match the main ones;

all elements are connected to each other through metal corners and self-tapping screws. It is also possible to use a profile for fastening. If the opening is located in close proximity to a brick wall, then the beams should be fastened with one side into it.

Making an opening in a concrete slab

To create an opening in a concrete slab, you should stock up on the necessary tools and materials, namely:

metal profiles;

metal corners;

welding machine;

• fittings;

  wire;

  rope;

  mesh for plaster.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

If the opening is located in the ceiling next to a stone wall, the transverse beams are embedded at one end into the wall. The node for supporting a beam on a brick wall is solved similarly to the node for supporting a platform beam. Seat subsequently plastered.

Unlike an opening in a wooden ceiling, which can be cut into an already finished design, the opening in the floor made of reinforced concrete slabs must be left in advance, even during the process of manufacturing this floor.

The contour of the opening is framed by steel profiles: channels, I-beams or a structure made of corners. To create monolithic sections formed on one or both sides of the contour of the staircase opening, steel beams are placed along the floor slabs, similar to beams in a wooden floor. They are supported on opposing walls, and two transverse beams are inserted between them, forming an opening (Fig. 33). The steel beams are fastened to each other by welding. The steel frame thus obtained rests on opposite walls the same as all other floor slabs. An opening for the stairs is left inside this frame, and reinforced monolithic sections are made along the edges. It is better to direct the flanges of the profiles of the longitudinal beams towards the inside of the monolithic section, this simplifies the production of a concrete monolith. The location of the shelves of the cross beam profiles does not matter, but when decorating an opening with wood, sometimes it is better to direct them inside the staircase opening.

Rice. 33. Construction of a staircase opening in a ceiling made of reinforced concrete slabs

The entire steel frame needs to be raised 20–30 mm relative to the lower plane of the floor slabs, then when constructing a monolithic section, cement laitance will flow under the profiles and hide the metal. To prevent this layer of cement from subsequently falling off and exposing the steel profile, wire shorts must be welded onto its lower flange and with their help, the plaster mesh must be secured to the beams.

Sometimes, in order to save steel profiles, instead of a structure with longitudinal load-bearing beams made of channels or I-beams, a beamless design is used. In this design, there are no longitudinal beams, and the opening is formed with steel corners, resting their shelves on adjacent floor slabs. This design partially transfers the weight of the monolithic section and the stairs to the adjacent floor slabs. After checking the load-bearing capacity of floor slabs by calculation, this design can be used on small monolithic areas. It is better not to do it for the construction of wide staircase openings.

Reinforcement of monolithic sections is assigned according to the project or calculation. The lower formwork panel is made on the ground and pulled with ropes to the installation site. Where it is attached with wire twists to the beams carrying the formwork. Boards mounted on edge or thick reinforcing bars or crowbars can be used as beams. Wire loops are thrown over these beams, inserted between the branches of the mounting wire and the wire begins to twist. Thus, the formwork panel is attracted and pressed against the adjacent floor slabs. To prevent laitance from leaking out, the shield is covered plastic film or glassine. Carry out reinforcement of monolithic sections and filling concrete mixture. The twisted wires remain forever in the body of the concrete. When stripping, their ends protruding from the monolith are cut down or trimmed with a grinder.

A staircase is an indispensable element for multi-storey buildings without an elevator or bunk apartments. At the same time, stairs are also important for one-story buildings: the difference in the level of the ground and the house, one way or another, will differ due to the foundation, and it will simply be impossible to get into the attic or basement without a ladder. Let’s take a closer look at how stairs are modeled and which projects are the most popular today.

Designing stairs: optimal sizes

The ease of use and safety of the ladder depends on the size and ratio of all its elements. The dimensions of any (from straight to screw) structure are regulated by the “Building Codes and Rules”, on the basis of which all calculations and design of stairs must be made.



Thus, comfortable and reliable internal stairs in a residential area should have:

1. The width of the flight of stairs is within 1.25-1.5 meters (for country houses the width can be reduced to 800 cm).
2. Minimum tilt angle is 35 degrees, max is 45.
3. The height of the passage is at least two meters or 50 mm greater than the height of the tallest resident.
4. The depth of the treads is 250-350 mm, and the height of the riser is 150-250 mm.
5. Balusters 900 mm high, handrails that are easy to grip.

The number of steps in a flight is measured according to the individual parameters of the room. To do this, the ceiling height (3000 or 2700 cm depending on the building) is divided by the optimal riser height. The resulting value is rounded up.

Staircase diagram and methods for modeling it

The schematic plan of the staircase contains instructions for all sizes of structural elements. So, the drawing should indicate the height and width of the steps, the length of the stringers, the angle of inclination of the structure, the dimensions of the marching and winder steps, and the transition platform. You can draw a diagram of the staircase on paper, carrying out the calculations yourself, or create it using online calculators with a designer for designing stairs (we design structures very carefully, carefully checking the obtained values ​​with SNiP, because the reliability of the staircase depends on this).

The disadvantage of online programs is that the resulting model of the staircase is typical, and the design itself is shown schematically. It is quite possible that such modeling will not be suitable for rooms with non-standard parameters and ceiling openings. Computer visualization will help you create a more detailed staircase design with two or three dimensions.

Today, the most popular programs for designing stairs are:

1. Sweet Home 3D.
2. SketchUp.
3. Pro100.
4. Autocad.
5. Sema.

The executive diagram of the staircase is drawn for each group separately (if the design is complex, then a separate drawing may be needed for each stair element).

In order to understand how the calculated structure will look, visual kirigami models are often used, from which one can easily build the structure to scale.

House project with stairs in the living room

The staircase in the living room should not only be a functional, reliable and safe lifting element, but also have an attractive appearance, emphasizing the style of the room and the taste preferences of the owners.

The choice of staircase type depends on the dimensions of the room. In order not to overload a small room, it is better to choose open structures with light carved fences and thin bowstrings. Curvilinear stairs or structures on rails are perfect.

A spiral staircase to the second floor can be placed in the middle of the room: such an element will become not only practical, but also decorative, and will fit perfectly into the interior of loft-style rooms. For minimalist living rooms, you can choose compact staircases on rails, which will emphasize the geometry of the lines and the openness of the space.

Staircases for large apartments should be spectacular, emphasizing the breadth of space and harmonizing with it. The most popular stairs to the large hall are made of solid wood (oak, beech, ash). Often such stairs are made closed, and the space under the stairs is decorated with built-in appliances, furniture, and niches. It is convenient if there is a doorway opposite such a staircase.

You can make a straight, wide wooden staircase to the hall with your own hands: you need to carry out calculations or find a ready-made project, purchase lumber and construction tools.

Practical design of a staircase outside the house

Most often, the role of external, front stairs is performed by concrete and reinforced concrete structures, the support for which is fixed in the ground. Such stairs are created by installing formwork, reinforcement and pouring concrete; they are durable and have a high load capacity.

Finishing of entrance stairs can be done using:

• Wood (oak, beech, hornbeam and other hardwoods).
• Natural stone (granite, marble, quartz).
• Artificial stone.
• Brick.
• Ceramic tiles (frost- and UV-resistant floor, concrete, sidewalk tiles).

If the porch finish has a smooth surface, then the steps should be equipped with anti-slip thresholds: this will increase the safety level of the stairs in winter.

The most convenient location is the location of the external staircase directly in front of the entrance to the house. If this is not possible, then a porch or platform is built in front of the door, to which a staircase leads. In addition, the lifting outdoor installation can be remote and lead directly to the premises of the upper floors (bypassing the first), to a balcony or attic.

Such a staircase can be:

• Direct (for example, mine).
• Curvilinear (for example, screw).

Most often, such stairs are made of metal. The main thing is that when placing such a structure, it should not interfere with the passage into the house and the entrance to the garage; preferably, it should not block the windows.

Staircase in a narrow hallway opening

Often, corridor openings in private houses look like elongated polygons of small sizes (this can often be found in houses made of 8x8 timber). In such buildings, a staircase option is needed that can effectively save space, while looking attractive and being reliable.

The most popular stairs that can save a square meter are:

1. Corner staircase with a winder platform. Is an ideal option. Using a platform instead of steps makes the stairs more convenient and safe for small children and the elderly.
2. Samba type staircase (“goose step”). This design saves space as much as possible, but can be inconvenient when ascending (you must always start with one foot) and descending (due to the small width of the step).
3. Vertical staircase. Both a spiral and a straight (modular or extension) staircase can be successfully placed even in a very small corridor.

The staircase to a narrow corridor can be made of wood or metal. The choice of frame depends not only on the type of structure, but also on the design of the corridor. For loft and hi-tech interiors, compact spiral staircases are suitable, the supports for which are presented in the form of metal racks (the steps, however, can be made of wood, glass or metal mesh).

Owners of Scandinavian-style apartments, classic or country interiors should opt for wooden structures on bowstrings.

Ceiling opening for stairs: design compliance

The type of staircase is determined not only by the layout of the hallway or living room, but also by the parameters of the opening in the ceiling. The ceiling opening is the opening into which the flight of stairs opens. This gap can be of almost any size and shape.

So, for a narrow, rectangular opening (in a living room) the following would be ideal: an L-shaped staircase and a “goose step” type structure. You can try using a ladder on rails, making the upper steps a little shorter than the lower ones (the transition should be smooth, and the length of the upper steps should be at least 750 mm). If the opening is very small, then you should choose modular stairs on one stringer or attached structures.

An ideal option for round openings would be spiral staircases. The angle of rotation of such structures is determined by the height of the ceilings, and can be completely different.

Small ceiling openings in utility rooms can be equipped with retractable ladders that can be easily attached to the hatch cover.

What should be the openings for stairs (video)

Today it is impossible to imagine any building without a staircase: these installations have found application even in one-story houses (for example, entrance staircases). You can choose a ready-made project or design an individual staircase using programs for 2 and 3D visualization. The main thing is that the structure is durable and safe, and has an attractive appearance!

Attention, TODAY only!

You can’t even imagine how versatile laminate is as a finishing material! gain popularity. Indeed, this is a great way to give a beautiful, stylized wood look to a staircase that has become quite worn out, or concrete stairs, which looks gloomy and cumbersome.

Finishing a porch with high quality is not that difficult!

Tools and materials for working with laminate

List of materials to be purchased:

• laminate and glue for it;
• edge profile;
• self-tapping screws

Since the staircase is subject to heavy loads during use, we will need a commercial laminate. This means that the first number indicated in the laminate class should be 3, the subsequent value depends only on your wallet. We also purchase special glue for laminate flooring. It is desirable that the width of the board matches the height of the step and the length of the step. Otherwise, you will have to fasten the laminate with locks, which means a loss in strength.

What is an edge profile and what types does it come in?

An edge profile is a decorative strip used to hide the angle formed by the slats. There are several types of edge profiles: metal, wood and plastic. Often, metal L-shaped thresholds are used as an edge profile. There are also special laminated profiles from the company Quick Step. They are attached using a metal guide to the step, to which the laminated profile is attached using glue. This connection is more durable, since the profile has grooves and double fastening is obtained.

Laminate staircase finishing: options

Options and methods for decorating a staircase opening with your own hands differ only in what profile you have chosen: L-shaped or specialized. Installing an L-shaped profile is easier to implement and cheaper in price, but is inferior in connection strength to a specialized one.

QuickStep profile - looks impressive and lasts a long time

The use of L-shaped thresholds when finishing the staircase opening to the second floor and porch

Visual decorative properties L-shaped thresholds are inferior to laminated ones. In terms of strength, laminated ones also win. However, if you are not a specialist and are restoring the staircase in the house yourself, this option is for you. It is lighter and cheaper.

Let's get started:

1. The first step to improving the porch or staircase to the second floor is preparing the stairs for installation. It is necessary to remove all contaminants, including dust, remove the old coating, if any, and also level the elements.
2. We cut out blanks from the laminate for laying on the steps. To do this, measure the width of each step. Even if the staircase is visually straight, this does not mean that the sizes of the steps in it are really the same. Therefore, we take measurements of each step. To avoid confusion, it is recommended to number the workpieces.
3. Glue the laminate to the vertical part of the step. To glue the laminate to the riser we will need notched trowel. After applying glue to the riser, spread it evenly over the surface with a spatula. Laying the laminate begins from the top step. Subsequent lamellas should be of such a size that there is a gap between the lamellas approximately equal to the thickness of the laminate used.
4. Glue the laminate onto a horizontal plane. Using a spatula, spread the glue along the steps to a thin layer and press the prepared lamella.
5. We install the threshold. Wooden thresholds can be attached either with glue or with screws. We fix plastic thresholds only with glue, since it will simply break under the influence of a screw, and we screw metal ones with screws to special mounting holes.
6. We perform the same actions for all subsequent steps. If there is a flight of stairs on the stairs, then the laminate is laid there in the usual way: secure with locks.

After completing the installation work, you must refrain from walking up the stairs to the second floor for 24 hours. And if the edge elements are fixed exclusively with glue, then two days.

Using specialized thresholds: step-by-step instructions

This method of finishing a porch or staircase at home is more labor-intensive, but your efforts will be rewarded with aesthetics and increased strength compared to the previous method.

1. We are carrying out preparatory work. We eliminate all unnecessary elements that may interfere with installation. We repair chips, holes and cracks in the stairs. We putty the wooden stairs. Also, the wooden staircase must be checked for creaks and wobbles. If there are any, then you will have to go through the entire structure and reinstall it more tightly.
2. We measure the length and height of the steps, and then transfer the measurements to the laminate.
3. We begin the installation of the laminate from the top step, since this way we will avoid movement of the laminate, which is secured with still wet glue. Just as in the previous method, it is necessary to maintain a gap between the lamellas of the horizontal and vertical planes. Apply glue to a vertical surface and spread it evenly with a spatula.
4. We install a specialized guide profile. To do this, apply to reverse side glue the metal profile and press it tightly to the top of the step. Since the design of the metal profile with a guide is much larger than the L-shaped threshold, glue alone is not enough. Every 15 cm it is necessary to secure the profile to the riser using screws.
5. Apply glue evenly to the tread and lay the laminate. We try to connect the first lamella into a lock with the laminate, which lies on the floor of the second floor. We push subsequent lamellas under the lamellas lying on vertical surface. This is why we left a gap in the previous steps. The gap can be set using bars or cutting small pieces of laminate from the leftovers.
6. We install a rubber insert into the edge profile.
7. We fill the grooves of the laminated profile with glue and firmly place it on the metal guide.
   We repeat the procedure step by step until we finish finishing the staircase or... You should not walk up the stairs as much as in the previous method.

As you can see, everything is quite simple, and as time will show later, it is also very effective. How do you finish the porch? Tell us about it in the comments!

There is probably no homeowner who would not dream of expanding his holdings. The development of new territories is inherent in every person. One of the simplest and most economical ways to master treasured additional square meters— refurbishment attic space to residential.

But despite all the attractiveness of this activity, the most difficult place remains the installation of an inter-level staircase. This article discusses the procedure for determining a place for a staircase, its type and obtaining an opening when reconstructing an attic space in an old house.

Undoubtedly, stairs made using classical technologies using expensive materials give the house monumentality, importance and a special gloss. But modernity in the style of minimalism and the permanent crisis have led to the fact that nine out of ten owners of economy class housing will vote for the efficient use of space in their home and for saving money.

An interlevel staircase is an expensive structure. Especially if it is made to order. However, with some skill you can do almost all the work yourself. This applies not only to calculations and construction of wooden, but also welded metal stairs. But before you begin to put your plans into practice, you need to decide on the shape and location of the staircase, as well as prepare the opening.

Determining the location of the stairs in the house

Whatever it is, everyone knows that stairs take up too much space. The flatter it is and, accordingly, more convenient for passage, the larger the size of the opening under it and the farther the first step needs to be moved in projection from the last.

Most comfortable stairs is considered to be one in which the width of the tread (horizontal part of the step) is not less than 30 cm, and the height of the riser (vertical part of the step) does not exceed 17 cm. Such indicators can be obtained if the angle of inclination of the flight of stairs is within 30 - 40 degrees. Here are a few simple rules, following which you can quite easily choose the location of the inter-level staircase in the house.

1. If possible, locate the stairs in a non-residential part of the house. It is extremely inconvenient to use a living room if a bulky structure is installed in it.
2. If an inter-level staircase opens into the attic, then try to position it so that the exit is as close as possible to the longitudinal center line of the attic.
3. Use a simple geometric rule to roughly estimate the length of the opening - a leg lying opposite an angle of 30 degrees is equal to half the hypotenuse. That is, if the ceiling height in the room is 3 meters and the slope of the stairs is 30 degrees, the length of the opening will be 6 meters.
4. Approaches to the stairs must be free. If something interferes with this, consider whether to make winder steps.
5. There are types of stairs that take up virtually no space in the room, for example, spiral ones, but they are problematic for lifting anything. Consider such projects as a last resort, giving preference to simpler models.
6. Stairs can be open or built-in. It is advisable to place open stairs where it is undesirable to clutter the space with massive structures, and built-in ones where it is planned to use the space under the stairs (for example, for guest bathroom or a storage room for household equipment).
7. It is not possible to knock out an opening in the ceiling of the upper floor in every place. If we are talking about monolithic ceiling or covering with reinforced concrete slabs, it is necessary to develop separate project and have it endorsed by the author or an organization recognized as the author of the entire house project.
8. If the size of the opening does not allow you to fit the staircase in the place that you have determined as the best according to the above indicators, then you can reduce the opening by increasing the angle of inclination, but in this case change the shape of the steps to " duck step" Such a staircase is more difficult to manufacture, but is very convenient at slope angles from 45 to 70 degrees.

Calculation of stairs

Most stairs don't require a lot of math. It is important to be able to determine using basic knowledge by geometry, the angle of inclination of the stairs, the number of steps, the height of the riser, the width of the tread and the length of the opening.

The initial data for these calculations is the height from the finished floor of the lower level to the finished floor of the second level. This means that if over concrete screed laid wooden floors, then the height is measured from the concrete screed, since wooden floors are not clean. The same rule applies to upper level floors.

For example, having measured the height of the ceiling at the place where the stairs were installed, the result was 3 meters. The most convenient angle of inclination of the stairs is 30 degrees, which means that the length of the opening will be 6 meters. With a tread width of 30 cm, 20 steps can be laid on the projection of the opening. Dividing 3 meters of floor height by 20, we get a minimum riser height of 15 cm.

However, most often such a long opening cannot be found even in big house, and what can we say about the little one! Therefore, the next step will be to optimize the spatial arrangement of the stairs in the house while simultaneously adjusting the sizes of steps and risers, which is achieved by choosing the shape of the stairs.

Determining the type of staircase

In most cases, an internal interlevel staircase should provide comfortable ascent and descent to a height of 2.5 to 3.2 meters. In this case, it is important that the opening occupies as much space as possible less space. You can minimize the size of the opening by installing a ladder suitable type, which can be classified according to the following criteria:

• Based on the number of flights, one-, two- and three-flight staircases are distinguished;
• Based on the presence of an intermediate platform, staircases with one and two intermediate platforms are distinguished. Straight and with a rotation of 90 or 180 degrees;
• Based on the presence of winder steps, a distinction is made between staircases with lower, upper, combined winder steps, as well as spiral staircases, such as extreme case use of winder steps;
• Stairs with straight steps and specially shaped steps that facilitate ascent and descent at slope angles of 45 degrees or more.

Also great importance has a choice of material from which the stairs will be made. After all, assembling a ladder on a single string of wood is fraught with great technical difficulties. Such stairs are made of metal, which is much cheaper. In addition, under equal conditions for bearing capacity wooden stairs will be much more massive than metal ones. Therefore, designers give preference to metal stairs in cases where it is necessary to install open staircase. But the choice of material for the steps still most often remains with the type-setting adhesive wood board.

So, choosing a two-flight staircase with one intermediate platform allows you to reduce the length of the opening by up to 30% and change the direction of movement along the stairs from 0 to 180 degrees.

Choosing a single-flight staircase with winder steps allows you to change the direction of movement along the stairs up to 180 degrees and reduce the size of the opening to 20%.

Choosing a spiral staircase allows you to reduce the size of the opening by up to 80% and change the direction of movement up to 360 degrees.

Changing the slope angle of the stairs while simultaneously changing the shape of the steps and combining them with winder steps allows you to reduce the size of the opening by up to 60%.

Installation of a frame ceiling and identification of an opening in it

Work on constructing a staircase begins with punching an opening in the upper level ceiling. In this case, the floor material is of significant importance. If the floors are monolithic or made of slabs, then independent dismantling is impossible. This type of work must be carried out by a company licensed to this type activities. All work must be carried out in accordance with the agreed and approved project.

Independent dismantling is only possible if the upper level ceilings are wooden and do not bear the load. At the same time, it often happens that in old houses there are practically no attic floors. Which is most often associated with the hasty post-war reconstruction of the house. In this case, it is best to remove the ceilings completely and replace them with new ones based on frame technology.

Photo 1. Fragment of the ceiling, restored using frame technology

Photo 1 shows a fragment of a removed attic floor, which has been replaced with a frame based on 50x120 mm bars, supported on one side by the rafters through special support shoes (photo 2), and on the other side by an I-beam steel beam that acts as a purlin (photo 3 the beam is shown from its underside). Support on the shoes allows you to significantly increase the maximum permissible load on the floor, since the risk of breaking old rafter boards is significantly reduced, and dividing the floor by a beam in half allows you to dismantle the floor in parts.

Photo 2. Support shoe installed on the rafter

Photo 3. Support beam as a purlin

Photo 1 shows that the frame cells have an opening for the stairs. Here it should be taken into account that the pitch of the rafters is 60 cm. And this size has not changed since those times. And the width of the stairs may vary. IN in this case The width of the stairs along the steps is 65 cm, and the opening is 72 cm.

Photo 4. Embedding board for expanding the opening by any size

The solution to this problem is shown in photo 4. As can be seen in the photograph, the frame beam rests not on the shoe, but on the embedded board, which is installed between two adjacent shoes. Using this method, you can change the width of the opening by any amount up to the next beam.

After the frame is assembled, it needs to be sheathed underneath with OSB sheets. A sheet 10 mm thick is quite suitable for this purpose. When sheathing, it is not necessary that the edges of the sheets touch the beams or cross members of the frame. After all, the final cladding will be made of plasterboard.

Photo 5. The ceiling is sheathed underneath with OSB

A fragment of the floor sheathed with OSB on the bottom is shown in photo 5. After this, you can begin to heat and sound insulate the floor. It is best to use mineral or basalt wool as insulation due to their non-flammability. But before you start filling the frame cells with insulation, you need to line each of them with a vapor barrier. Photo 6 shows the cells of the ceiling frame, in which the film is laid and secured with a stapler.

Photo 6. Laying vapor barrier on the bottom and walls of cells

When all the cells are insulated, you can begin laying the insulation. Its thickness should be no less than the thickness of the beams. In this case - 120 mm. Mineral wool can be laid more densely with the expectation that it will settle a little later.

By the way, the same insulation scheme was used in the construction of the house back in 1940. Only instead of basalt wool glass wool was placed in the ceiling white, carefully packed in bags of thick black paper. But over time, the glass wool stuck together and became completely flat, completely losing its insulating properties.

Photo 7. Cells after filling mineral wool

Photo 7 shows the appearance of the cells after filling them with mineral wool. The top of the mineral wool needs to be covered with another layer of film and secured with brackets. This stage of work is shown in photo 8.

Photo 8. The top of the mineral wool is covered with film

And the last stage of work on heat and sound insulation - OSB sheathing ceilings from the attic side. When performing this work, in contrast to covering the ceiling, it is important to touch the edges of the frame with the edges of adjacent OSB sheets. Otherwise, at the joints they will bend under the weight of a person. Photo 9 shows the appearance of the ceiling from the attic side after laying the OSB.

Photo 9. OSB attic floor covering

The thickness of the sheets depends on the pitch of the frame. So, with an average cell size of 40x40 cm, a sheet 15 mm thick is sufficient. If the cell size exceeds this value, then the thickness of the sheet must also be increased proportionally. The part of the opening that will be located above the back of the stairs can be reduced, but it is important not to forget to take into account the height of a person above average. This size is 190 cm. The opening should be reduced in order to reduce heat loss during heat exchange between levels.

The sides of the opening formed by the outer floor beams must be smooth. This is necessary because the basis for finishing Drywall will serve, which can simply be screwed to them with self-tapping screws.

Facing the opening

The facing of the opening begins with installation suspended ceiling from plasterboard on the lower level. Otherwise, it will be impossible to calculate the size of the side slopes of the opening. Installation of a plasterboard ceiling is best done on metal profiles, and not screw the drywall directly to the OSB floor. The fact is that when walking on the ceiling from above, in this case the load will be transferred directly to the sheets, which will eventually wear through the heads of the screws. When sheets of plasterboard are suspended on profiles, dynamic loads do not occur along the entire plane of the floor, but only in the places where the suspensions are attached to the ceiling. Such loads are quickly absorbed in ceiling structures without causing deformation. In addition, under such ceilings it is easy to hide all electrical wiring and other communications.

Photo 10. The ceiling plane next to the opening is lined with plasterboard

Photo 10 shows the working moment when the entire ceiling plane next to the opening is already lined with plasterboard along the profiles. The remaining part, which includes the attached ventilation pipe and the reduction of the opening on the back side of the stairs, is sewn up last. In this case, you can take a sheet of drywall bigger size, screw it into place, and then cut out the outline according to the footnotes made using a vertical level. These manipulations are shown in photos 11-14.

Photo 11. Sheathing difficult place ceiling with a sheet of obviously larger size

Photo 12. Cutting along a contour marked by level from the inside

Photo 13. Drywall exactly follows the contour of the opening

Photo 14. Bottom view of the opening and plasterboard ceiling

Once the outline of the opening is outlined on the ceiling, you can screw in the side slopes. It is enough to fix them with self-tapping screws directly to the beams. The process is illustrated in photo 15.

Photo 15. Installation of side slopes of the opening

The edges need to be reinforced with perforated aluminum corners. They are fixed with staples using a stapler (photo 16). After which they apply putty (photo 17) and then two more layers of putty are applied to the entire plane of the drywall with intermediate and final sanding (photo 18).

Photo 16. Installing perforated corners on the edges

Photo 17. Puttying edges and seams

Photo 18. Finishing putty

An opening prepared in this way is ready for most types of finishing, from painting to decorating with thin plasters, wallpaper or PVC panels.

1. The use of facade putty will significantly expand the list of types decorative finishing opening. After all, it is made on the basis of white cement and is much more reliable;
2. There is no need to line the opening slopes with plasterboard at all if you plan to cover it with clapboard;
3. After sanding, it is necessary to prime each layer of putty;
4. It is better to place the wiring on the OSB floor in non-combustible boxes.

The example of an opening used in the article as an illustration, and the technology of the work being carried out are demonstrated using the example of repairing an antique German house Built in 1940. The house was badly damaged during the war and post-war years. It was partially renovated economically, but major renovation no one has ever produced in it. Therefore, we can consider the given example the most indicative and the most difficult when arranging an opening for an inter-level staircase in a private house.

In the next article dedicated to self-production and installation of internal stairs, we'll talk about how to produce welding work For example metal stairs with one string, open steps and stringers.

Maxim Fedorov, rmnt.ru

Part 1: How to prepare an opening for an interlevel staircase
Part 2: