Both the stove and the fireplace have their own special advantages. The former heat the room faster and use fuel more economically, the latter allow you to enjoy the beauty of a living flame and its warmth. Most rooms do not allow the installation of two heating devices at once. Therefore, the most common question on various forums is how to combine a stove and fireplace. There are two possible options, we will try to consider each of them in more detail.
Installation of finished equipment
The easiest option for combining these two types of heating devices is to purchase and install ready-made products, or if there is a need to build a stove combined with a fireplace. This is possible if space was left for it at an early stage of construction.There are several design solutions for how to combine a fireplace and stove.
- Combination of two combustion chambers in one housing. This method is more acceptable and is in high demand. This design can also be used in traditional versions of stove equipment, for example, in a Russian stove. An interesting option is in which the furnace firebox goes into one room, and the fireplace into another.
- Glass door installation. Tempered glass covering the combustion chamber simultaneously allows the equipment to operate in both stove and fireplace modes. Its service life depends on the quality of this type of combustion door. Poorly tempered glass can lose its heat-resistant qualities over time and become unusable.
There are several advantages to this solution. The product is installed in a predetermined location and connected to the chimney as quickly as possible. The costs in this case are minimal.
There are many options for how to combine a fireplace and stove, most of which require coordination with the design documentation of the building and approval of the project with the relevant authorities.
Combining a fireplace and stove
The difficulty lies in the fact that the cross-sectional diameter of the channels in one and another type of equipment is different, so to carry out such work will require at least the installation of two smoke exhaust systems.It is much easier to combine a fireplace and stove if they are metal. One option for such a connection is the possibility of finishing the equipment using refractory bricks. The stove and fireplace are built into this design.
Nuances associated with combining a fireplace and stove into one design
- Seek advice. Without competent advice from a stove-maker, it is better not to undertake this re-equipment. He should be entrusted with performing all the necessary work.
- Find out the rules and regulations governing the installation and operation of such equipment. For example, you can get information that a modern analogue of a “potbelly stove” can be installed in almost any room without restrictions. The convenience of this option is that some manufacturers not only combine a fireplace and stove, but also make sure that such equipment is sold completely ready for use. These models also include a chimney, so it can be installed almost anywhere in the house.
- Invite a master. Only a competent stove maker can handle the conversion or creation of a new combination stove.
The ability to combine a fireplace and stove, in addition to aesthetic value, also has economic benefits. The efficiency increases to 80-85%.
Fireplace and stove - what's the difference?
Is there a difference between how a room is heated using a fireplace and a stove? At first glance, it seems that if it exists, it is insignificant. In fact, beauty, as noted in one proverb, requires sacrifice, and in this case, their role is played by heat loss, which is associated with combustion in the fireplace.The fact is that the heating of the room mainly occurs due to the heat that comes out of the combustion chamber. A large percentage of hot air simply goes outside. The design of the stove allows you to accumulate this heat and use it to warm the walls, which are the source of heating the room.
If you can combine the level of heating of the room that a conventional stove has with the beauty of natural cain, you can reduce the heat loss coefficient. Therefore, it is economically profitable to put together a stove combined with a fireplace or install ready-made combined equipment. There are several other advantages of this design:
- Possibility of cooking. Some models have space for an oven and have a hob. The only significant drawback is that the heating mode can only be controlled by reducing the fuel, which is not always convenient.
- Using combined equipment as the main heat source. In this case, a water circuit is installed in the combustion chamber.
Combining a brick stove and a fireplace may be right not only because of aesthetic value, but also because of economic benefits. This solution also increases the efficiency of heating the house and makes it possible to use the fireplace as the main source of heating.
Such original designs as metal fireplace stoves are made from metal or copper sheets, blackened or galvanized sheet.
The sheets are connected by rivets or welding. The shape and design of the sheets themselves, their pattern of joints, rivets and combination of geometric shapes is a separate broad artistic theme for the design of a fireplace.
But the basis of the architectural design of metal fireplaces is still the shape of the hoods and the methods of attaching them to the ceiling.
Over so many years of existence of fireplaces, including their metal structures, a large number of interesting forms have emerged. You can see hanging chimneys with a conical or pyramidal ending, and hanging bells-caps, and pipes 5-7 m high, which are attached to guy wires, and fireboxes suspended together with caps, etc.
Metal fireplace stove - is it necessary?
Metal light fireplaces and stoves can be found in Japan. An interesting design of such a fireplace: a plane for the fireplace insert is mounted on a special support or stand, a steel cubic cap is connected to a chimney, which extends asymmetrically from the cap. Japanese fireplaces are small in size and are built against the wall. The chimney pipe is installed at a distance of 60 cm from the wall in accordance with fire safety requirements. The fuel is placed on the floor under the pipe, or it is combined with the firebox. Both the firebox and the floor under it must be lined with refractory bricks.
Of particular interest is a metal round mini-fireplace, which is mounted on a stand with a diameter equal to the diameter of the chimney pipe. The firebox of such a fireplace is very small, but there is enough fire in it to keep the room warm and you can admire it. In Japan you can often see heating stoves that look like our small cast iron stoves, but they are made of sheet metal and have an open fireplace insert.
What can such a fireplace be made from?
But still, wood-burning metal fireplaces, which are made from various building materials, are in great demand. For example, a lightweight steel cap harmonizes well with natural stone, brickwork or plaster. The appearance of the metal surface can be completely different - matte black or shiny, smooth or with a corrugated pattern, decorated with embossing, decorative stamps, and so on.
You can often find prefabricated fireplaces, the construction of which uses several materials. It can be brick, concrete, wood and metal. But this is not entirely correct. In any architectural composition, the use of several different materials leads to fragmentation of the composition. A pure architectural idea expressed by a single material is always used in all classic solutions.
It is strictly not recommended to combine different building and decorating materials in a small fireplace, which is also installed in a small room in your house or apartment. In order to get an interesting and modern fireplace design, two materials will be enough.
When building a metal fireplace, do not forget about its authenticity - the fireplace should look believable. If an overly large cap is hung on a brick wall, secured with hidden consoles, then the feeling of an unnatural structure will remain. A very large plane of obviously heavy riveted metal will not look natural on a thin, lightweight wall.
An ordinary metal fireplace will look dark, gloomy and angular without additional design inventions and solutions. But it can be easily turned into a light and elegant fireplace if you line it with light tiles.
Everyone knows that building a real brick fireplace involves financial costs, time, and the services of professional stove makers. But you can tile a light metal fireplace with your own hands.
It won’t be difficult to purchase a suitable fireplace model and building materials for its cladding, and then it’s up to you. Here you will get a double benefit in heating - the heat that the fireplace itself emits will be doubled by the heat from the heated tiles, which will ultimately allow you to get excellent comfortable heating of a cottage with an area of up to 40 m2 with a small thermal power of the device (8-10 kW).
A metal fireplace does not need to be decorated with tiles. Ordinary tiles will also work for this, and their possibilities in terms of variety of decor are even greater. Tile cladding consists of two shells: a load-bearing layer made of aerated concrete 50 mm thick (laid on cement glue), and a decorative shell made of tiles.
How and with what to clad a wood-burning fireplace made of metal
The tiles must be attached to the aerated concrete wall using cement adhesive, which provides high bond strength even in the presence of large voids. It is first necessary to moisten the boards with water to slow down the hardening process of the adhesive composition. This is necessary so that the glue does not crack if it dries too quickly.
In order to achieve the same size for all seams, special plastic crosses must be inserted between the tiles. Once the glue has hardened, they can be easily removed.
Aerated concrete slabs are butted together at the corners, just like tiles. Aerated concrete is laid using a special aerated concrete adhesive, and the tiles are secured with ceramic tile adhesive. The masonry is completed with cornice tiles on each tier of the decorative fireplace surround.
At the very top of the masonry there is a chimney. The warm air grille is inserted last, and you can choose any appearance and shape that suits the design of the fireplace. The seams between the tiles are rubbed with a special decorative putty of the same color. You can use not only a rubber spatula, but also a regular sponge, especially in hard-to-reach places. Then the entire tile must be wiped with a dry cloth.
Thus, the metal fireplace is made of three tiers. The fireplace itself is installed on a plinth made of aerated concrete, the height of the plinth for a standard fireplace is 210 mm, depth – 450 mm and width – 700 mm.
The sides of the fireplace are lined with aerated concrete slabs 250 mm wide. This is the second layer of the sandwich. The top slabs must be attached to the transverse cornice. The third layer of the structure is made narrower and should end at a height of approximately 2 meters. This is only a decorative design, without which, however, the fireplace will look like an unfinished, rough detail of the interior of the room.
The only drawback of such a metal fireplace-stove is that you will need to have a separate room for storing firewood, and preparing a supply of wood for the winter itself will take up your time.
Today, manufacturers offer various configurations of bath heating devices - wood, gas, liquid fuel. But their cost is often off the charts, and the fact that it will fit in a particular bathhouse is not guaranteed. However, what is made with one’s own hands lasts forever. If you are wondering how to weld a sauna stove yourself, it is not too difficult, you just need to arm yourself with instructions and advice from stove makers. In the article we will give detailed recommendations and advice, the main thing is to follow technology and safety and think through each stage of furnace work.
Modern devices made with your own hands can be compared to factory ones in functionality and appearance. When manufactured correctly, they are also economical, compact and do not require special care. Depending on the specifics of the bathhouse, the design can be made for firewood, liquid or other fuel. However, it must meet the requirements:
- Optimal power and the ability to control and adjust it. For example, the heating power of a stove may be acceptable for a bathhouse made of timber, but unsuitable in power for a frame one.
- A heat accumulator and a steam generator are necessary to regulate humidity and temperature conditions.
- Convection adjustment.
- There are no surfaces whose heating can reach 150C.
Hot and cold configuration options
The configuration of the device can be hot or cold, depending on the temperature conditions of the furnace walls. With a hot construction, the walls heat up to 100°C, as a result of which the steam room also heats up. Such a bath heats up quickly, and this has become an advantage for steam rooms where there is no constant heating and which are used infrequently. Cold-type devices are not suitable for such steam rooms. Their disadvantage is the high possibility of overheating and turning into a sauna, which is not always safe for the human body.
The advantage of cold-type devices that require long-term heating is a high level of safety, because it is impossible to get burned in such a bath. Heating with this configuration is carried out through special channels that absorb cool air from the floor, pass it through the fire and release it through the top, already heated to the optimal temperature, but not burning.
Technology and stages of welding a furnace yourself
So, let’s figure out how to cook a sauna stove yourself. To do this, you can use sheets of steel or a ready-made large pipe that does not need to be cut. Thick-walled steel pipes are the most commonly used material for the manufacture of sauna heating equipment. Its hermetically welded body guarantees complete safety for those in the steam room, and its functionality will exceed all expectations. Another advantage is that such a device does not require special fencing. You can cook such a sauna stove in a few hours, you just need the desire and some tools.
Laying the foundation
First of all, make a stable concrete foundation 25-30 cm high. After it has dried, lay out a 70x70 cm brick platform on a clay mortar. We recommend using refractory bricks for these purposes. As a result, the edge of the area should be 15-20 cm above the floor level. Then, protect the walls from overheating - for this, a brick screen is made on ribs laid on a clay mixture. Its height is made at least 120 cm, and the distance from the oven to the screen is 20 cm.
Sauna stove assembly technology
To make a stove for a bathhouse yourself and enjoy it at any time, the following structural elements are required: a steel pipe with a diameter of 50 cm and a length of 1.5 m. The walls should not be thicker than 1 cm so that it does not take too much time to warm up.
The pipe must be divided into two pieces 60 and 90 cm long, the larger one will be used for installing the firebox and heater, and the small one will be used as a water tank. Let's get to work and start cooking the stove for the bathhouse.
Precautionary measures
As it turns out, welding a sauna stove yourself does not require any special skills. In order to avoid making a bomb from the stove, you need to avoid gross mistakes and follow certain rules. For example, in the case of a strong draft of the stove, we recommend making a damper in the chimney in advance, and it should not be tightly fixed.
An important point is to prevent soot from igniting. For this purpose, you need to install the afterburner in a horizontal configuration - weld a horizontal container with a depth of half the furnace. Next, at the top of the pipe, cut two holes in the furnace wall, separating the main chamber from the entrance to it. To prevent soot, bend the tubes inward. Thanks to this configuration, the amount of oxygen will be increased, which will help burn the combustion end products and reduce soot deposition. We told you how to weld a sauna stove, and we hope that your homemade sauna structure will become your pride!
Summarizing
So, if you have the desire and some skills, you can independently make a simple and reliable metal structure. The advantage of this method was the smaller amount of welding work than when using solid sheets of metal. However, before starting work, we recommend that you carefully check the pipes for corrosion and rust, since they have been exposed to the open air for a long time. Problem areas can be initially sealed with patches or the necessary technological holes can be cut directly in problem areas.
Combined stove designs cannot be called an innovation - a typical example of a combined hearth is a Russian stove, which combines a stove, an oven, a drying chamber and a stove bench. Multifunctional stoves are not only convenient, but also economical - several tasks are solved with one chimney and even one kindling of firewood. The optimal choice for a modern home may be a heating and cooking stove with a fireplace, providing heating, cooking and comfort.
How to more efficiently place a stove and fireplace in your home
To get an efficient heating device, a decorative hearth and a functional stove in one design, it is not enough to choose the model you like. It is equally important to determine the optimal place for the stove in the house, based on the size of the home and the needs of the family.
Stove for heating a room with an area of 30-35 square meters
A very successful option for placing a heating and cooking stove with a fireplace is to install a fireplace in the wall between the living room-kitchen and the lounge or bedroom. A fireplace facing the living room will help out on cool evenings and create a romantic atmosphere at the right time.
For heating three adjacent rooms, an option is suitable in which the stove with oven and the main firebox are located in the kitchen, the fireplace opens into the living room, and the bedroom is heated by a heating panel.
If the hearth needs to be placed in one room, then the fireplace insert should be planned so that it faces the recreation area and is clearly visible. The stove should be convenient to use, so it is advisable to equip the kitchen as close to the hearth as possible. The location of the fireplace relative to the firebox and stove can be on the side or on the other side.
Project of a stove with a fireplace and a stove
In wall-mounted models, the fireplace insert is formed on the same side as the stove - this option is not always convenient if dishes are cooked on the stove, but you want to light an open hearth, since it is difficult to approach the stove while the fireplace is operating.
Compact fireplace with stove and stove
Projects of brick stoves with stove and fireplace
Heating stoves equipped with a hob and an open or glazed fireplace insert are ideal for cottages and small country houses. Building such a fireplace is no more difficult than a standard “Swedish” or “Dutch” fireplace. To help the masters, here are serial diagrams of two interesting models.
Stove-fireplace with stove and oven for the kitchen-living room
This model of heating and cooking stove with an additional fireplace insert is designed to heat a room up to 30 square meters, but the dimensions of the building allow it to fit into a room half the size indicated. The design includes a hob with one burner and an oven located in the medium-heat zone. The stove operates in winter and summer modes, warms up quickly and retains heat for a long time.
Projections of a stove with a stove and a fireplace
For construction you need to purchase 720 bricks (including fireclay for lining the firebox), an oven (28*30*52 cm), a cast iron stove (40*42 cm), two grates (18*30 cm). You will also need doors for the firebox and cleaning holes, valves, and steel corners. A mantelpiece can be easily made from wood, natural or artificial stone. The wooden board is protected from the stove side with asbestos.
Sequence of masonry: 1 – fireplace mantel; 8 – steel corner; 9 – blower door; 10 – combustion door; 13 – frame made of corners; 14 – corner; 15 – steel strip; 16 – grates; 17 – cleaning doors; 18 – grates for the firebox; 19 – corners; 20 – plate.
Order of masonry and installation of elements: 2 – samovar; 4 – steel corner; 5 – valve for winter mode; 6 – summer valve; 7 – fireplace damper; 11 – corners; 12 – oven
The most difficult section in this scheme is the transition from the firebox to the smoke collector. The thermal efficiency of a fireplace depends on the correct shape of the smoke tooth and the location of the fireplace relative to the doors and windows. To enhance draft and increase the efficiency of the fireplace insert, the side walls are formed with a slope of 45-55 degrees, and the back wall is slightly beveled. At the top of the fireplace portal, the brick is placed on edge. In front of the fireplace, as well as in front of the main firebox, it is necessary to equip a pre-furnace platform made of steel sheet.
Corner fireplace with stove for a small house
Compact corner fireplaces with a hob fit perfectly into a small country kitchen-living room. In this model, the main heating task is performed by the stove, and the fireplace plays a decorative role and is intended for infrequent use, so high-quality karmic brick can be used for the firebox. In cases where frequent evenings at the hearth are planned, it is advisable to make the lining with fireclay bricks. In total, 400 bricks are required for construction.
The smoke collector and fireplace mantel are made of heat-resistant concrete with expanded clay filler. These parts are poured yourself, having previously made templates for the formwork. The dimensions indicated in the diagram may differ slightly from the actual ones in each individual case, so they should be checked after building the main part of the furnace.
The procedure for laying a corner fireplace stove
Layout diagram and additional elements of a stove with a fireplace
Compact metal stoves-fireplaces
For those who cannot afford to install a bulky brick stove or do not want to spend time building it and arranging a complex chimney, there are compact metal heating devices with fireplace inserts, hobs and ovens. The operating principle of this equipment is based on convection, so there is no need for complex smoke circulation channels, and the smoke exhaust pipe can be removed not only through the roof, but also through a side hole in the wall into a metal or ceramic chimney.
Cast iron heating and cooking stove with stove
Although easy to install, installing cast iron stoves can be challenging. If you lack experience and knowledge, it is better to immediately contact a specialist. The same should be done by those who are planning to build a brick oven with their own hands, but have never encountered such work. It is better to gain experience on simpler structures, such as outdoor grills and barbecues.
Every owner of a country house strives to organize comfort in his home. An open or closed fireplace creates a special atmosphere, which will have a calming effect and warm you in the cold months. In order to make the heat source safe and efficient, you can build a corner fireplace stove with your own hands. This will require drawings of such a structure and bricklaying skills.
What is a fireplace stove, its advantages and disadvantages
A fireplace stove is a unit or capital structure made of fire-resistant materials that accumulates heat from the source of flame in the combustion chamber.
These structures are most often used as sources of heat and comfortable interior elements in dachas, country houses and private households.
Fireplace stoves have a number of advantages and disadvantages, which are expressed in the following criteria:
Table: advantages and disadvantages of fireplace stoves
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Design features and principle of operation
The design of the fireplace stove consists of two main elements - the combustion chamber and the chimney system. The degree of efficiency and productivity of the heating structure depends on how accurately the ratios of their parameters are calculated.
The operating principle of the fireplace stove is that the flame in the combustion chamber burns when the chimney is open (at the upper end). Smoke removal is carried out under the influence of draft, the power of which depends on the length of the pipe. Effective heat radiation occurs during combustion of the combustion material, but as it burns, the heating is significantly reduced. To increase heat transfer, the fireplace stove is equipped with a convection chamber. This modernization allows air to circulate from the room into it, and heated air back.
Like any permanent structure, the fireplace stove has a solid foundation.
For fire safety purposes, the structure is equipped with a flood platform. It is placed on the floor in front of the fireplace. For this purpose, non-combustible materials are used - metal, stone, fire-resistant brick or tile.
In accordance with fire safety standards, such a platform should be made 30–35 cm wider than the perimeter of the fireplace stove.
Above the platform there is an ash pan cavity and a fuel chamber. The space between these compartments is equipped with a grate. This increases the efficiency of the heating structure, since a place is created under the burning combustion material to dump the burned material.
Designs with a closed combustion chamber are equipped with a special blower, thanks to which you can change the heat power inside the fireplace stove. This makes it possible to extend the burning time, thereby saving fuel material.
All surfaces of the fireplace stove that come into contact with an open flame are lined with fire-resistant materials. This is necessary, since the temperature in these areas of the fireplace reaches and sometimes exceeds + 1000 °C.
To enhance heat radiation, the back wall of the fireplace stove is equipped with sheets of stainless steel or cast iron. For greater heat transfer, the rear wall of the combustion chamber is built at an angle forward. Thanks to this, heat flows are directed towards the platform, additionally heating the floors.
A smoke collection chamber (hilo) is installed above the combustion chamber. It has an irregular shape, resembling a truncated pyramid, in the front of which there is a special barrier. This barrier does not allow cold air currents to mix with combustion products, and also prevents smoke from entering the room.
The rear wall of the smoke collection chamber is equipped with a special protrusion (fireplace tooth), which keeps accumulated gas from entering the room.
The fireplace tooth prevents soot from falling into the combustion chamber. To clean this area of the fireplace stove, a door is installed near it.
The smoke collection compartment (hilo) and the chimney system are separated by a metal valve. This element serves to block the path of warm flows from the room to the outside after the wood has burned out. The valve is also used to adjust draft.
The chimney system pipe is built according to the same principle as in other heating structures. To ensure good traction, its height must be at least 500 cm from the base of the combustion chamber.
Calculation of basic parameters
The efficiency of a fireplace stove depends on the correctness of the parameters of all its elements. A discrepancy in the calculations will lead to a significant reduction in heat transfer or some of the smoke from the combustion chamber will escape into the room. Therefore, to build the correct design of a fireplace stove, the following rules must be observed:
- The size of the combustion chamber window should not be more than 2–3% of the area of the heated room.
- To determine the area of the bottom surface, it is necessary to multiply the quadrature of the combustion chamber window by 0.7.
- It is recommended to make the width of the combustion chamber in the range from 20 to 40% greater than its height.
- To calculate the depth of the combustion chamber, you need to multiply its height parameter by 0.7.
- It is recommended to make the diameter or cross-section of the chimney pipe at least 10% of the square footage of the firebox window. At the same time, it is not recommended to make its channel smaller: 150x280 mm for a brick structure, 160 mm in diameter for a pipe.
- The chimney pipe must be laid out so that it is conical in shape.
In order not to make mistakes in calculations, you can use ready-made tables and projects of such structures.
Calculation of bricks
To obtain an accurate calculation of bricks, it is necessary to use ready-made ordering schemes. The amount of building material depends on the specific design of the fireplace stove. In the proposed schemes, half or smaller shares of the material should be counted as whole bricks. In this case, their total number must be multiplied by 1.2.
The resulting value will make it possible to purchase material with a small margin. This is necessary, since the bricks may be damaged during transportation or unloading, and some of them may be defective.
For the construction of a fireplace stove built according to the scheme indicated below, about 360 pieces of red brick and about 60 pieces of fireclay will be required.
Calculation of foundation and mortar for masonry
When calculating the mortar for masonry, you should be guided by the fact that with a layer thickness of 3 mm, you will need one bucket of the mixture for 50 bricks.
Knowing the parameters of the material used, it is easy to calculate how much concrete and sand will be required to install the slab base.
The foundation for a corner fireplace stove will have the shape of a cylinder sector, the angle of which is 45 degrees.
To calculate the volume of concrete of this shape, you need to remember the school geometry course, namely the formula for finding the volume of a cylinder, which looks like this: V = πR²h, where π is a mathematical constant expressing the ratio of the circumference to the length of the diameter, equal to 3.14, R is the radius, h is the height of the figure.
The length of each side of the right angle of the figure can be easily calculated by knowing the parameters of the brick.
According to the diagram of the laying of the rows of the stove-fireplace, it is clear that these sides have 3 lengths of the bed side of the brick and one length of the butt side. In an example, it looks like this: 0.25+0.25+0.25+0.12=0.87 m. The foundation for the fireplace stove must be made on each side 10 cm larger than the structure itself: 0.87 + 0.1 = 0.97 m.
For example, the height of the foundation will be 10 cm.
Now you need to substitute the values into the formula to find the volume of the cylinder. The result obtained must be divided by 4, since the sector of the cylinder has its fourth part. The formula will be: V=(π·R²·h):4. Let's substitute the values: 3.14·0.97²·0.1=3.14·0.94·0.1=0.295:4=0.073 m³ of concrete mixture will be required to fill a foundation of this shape.
Video: corner brick fireplace
Required materials and tools
To build a fireplace stove, you do not need any special equipment. All the tools necessary for this can be found at every owner:
- Bayonet and shovel.
- Big crowbar.
- Hand-held circular saw.
- Hacksaw.
- Building level.
- Yardstick.
- Plumb.
- Large square.
- Rule for leveling a concrete base.
- Containers for water and masonry mixture.
- Deep vibrator.
- Trowel.
- Mallet with a rubber striker.
- Pliers.
- Hammer.
To fill the foundation you will need the following materials:
- Material for waterproofing. You can use roofing felt or thick polyethylene.
- For the manufacture of reinforcing bars - reinforcing bars with a cross section of 0.8 cm.
- Sand.
- Fine-grained (from 20 to 30 mm) crushed stone or large granite screenings.
- For the manufacture of formwork - edged boards, plywood or OSB boards.
- Concrete mixture grade M 300 or M 400.
- Nails and screws for strengthening formwork.
- Wire or plastic clamps for fastening reinforcing bars.
- Fireclay brick of SHA brand 8 standard parameters.
- Red refractory brick grade M 150 in regular sizes.
- Facing material.
- Cement.
- Clay.
- Metal corners made of steel with a shelf width of 50x50 or 60x60 mm.
- Metal gate valve.
- Insulating heat-resistant material made of asbestos or basalt.
It is convenient to use ready-made material from hardware stores as a masonry mixture. Such mixtures are specialized for the construction of such structures.
Preparatory work, choosing a location
For a fireplace stove of this shape, there are not many places for installation. However, even from the four corners it is necessary to choose the correct location.
A large room or hall with an area of at least 20 m² is best suited for a fireplace stove, since it requires a large volume of air for its full operation.
Furnace specialists recommend building corner fireplace stoves near the interior walls of the room. This is due to the fact that the fireplace, with this arrangement, does not lose its heating capacity, and problems with the operation of the chimney system are also eliminated.
It should be noted that the fireplace stove should not be installed near doors and windows, since strong air currents arise between the combustion chamber and the opening, which can lead to loss of heat radiation or a fire.
If the fireplace stove is equipped with a closed combustion chamber, then the draft inside the structure will be constant regardless of the location.
Do-it-yourself stove-fireplace: step-by-step instructions
It is most convenient to lay the foundation for a fireplace stove at the stage of pouring the strip foundation for the house. If the house has already been built, then the installation of the foundation will be preceded by the dismantling of the floor covering.
It should be noted that the concrete foundation for heating structures cannot be connected to the foundation of a residential building. Between the bases it is necessary to leave a distance of 50 to 100 mm. If this is neglected, the massive structure of the house will shrink over time. As a result, the elements of the fireplace stove will shift or become deformed, forming cracks and gaps. The integrity of the structure will be compromised, which will affect its functionality and performance.
Laying the foundation
To lay the foundation, you must perform the following steps:
- Make markings indoors at the future location of the fireplace stove. To do this, you need to mark the dimensions of the foundation on the wall with a marker.
- Disassemble the floor covering. Using a plumb line and a building level, extend the marking downwards.
- Do not remove the wooden logs at this stage until the foundation of the fireplace stove is brought to their level.
- Using the same tools and marks on the wall, determine the exact location of the base on the floor of the basement level of the house.
- Using a crowbar and shovels, dismantle the floor down to the foundation of the house.
- Dig a pit with a depth equal to the base of the house and a width 10–15 cm larger than the structure of the stove-fireplace. If the construction site is dominated by sandy or sandy loam soil, the walls of the pit may crumble. To avoid this, you need to cover them with polyethylene.
- Level and thoroughly compact the bottom of the hole.
- Pour in sand to create a layer thickness of 10 cm. Please note that wet sand compacts better.
- Place the same layer of gravel on top of the sand cushion.
- Use boards or plywood sheets to make formwork for pouring the foundation.
- Drive one wooden block into each corner of the pit. The formwork panels will be attached to them. If the formwork is made of boards, then there will be gaps between them, through which the earth will spill out. To avoid this problem, you need to wrap the finished shield in polyethylene.
- Use roofing felt or thick polyethylene to make waterproofing.
- Make a reinforcing frame for a concrete base from reinforcing bars with a cross-section of 0.8 cm. Make the width of its cells no more than 10x10 cm. Secure the intersections of the metal rods using wire, electric welding or plastic clamps. The entire metal structure should not lie on waterproofing. Therefore, it can be placed on halves or fragments of bricks.
- Pour concrete mixture grade M300 or M 400 inside the formwork. Using a deep vibrator, remove air bubbles from the uncured base. Liquid concrete should completely cover the protruding parts of the reinforcement cage.
- Cover the foundation with waterproofing material. This will allow the concrete to harden evenly. After 3-4 weeks the base will completely harden.
- Now you need to saw off the wooden floor joists. Their ends will be located on the foundation of the fireplace stove.
- The base is ready for laying brick rows.
Preparation of masonry mixture
Construction stores are replete with a variety of solutions and heat-resistant mixtures for laying stoves, fireplaces and other heating structures. However, experienced stove specialists recommend resorting to an old and proven method - using a clay solution for this purpose. To do this, it is necessary to use fatty grades of clay, the best of which is blue clay.
When dry, blue clay does not crack.
The material is pre-soaked in water for a couple of days. During this time the clay becomes viscous. Its consistency will resemble liquid cottage cheese with lumps. To ensure that the material has a uniform structure, it is filtered through a large sieve, kneading the lumps.
The prepared clay will allow you to make a masonry joint with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm.
To obtain a solution you need to add sand to the clay. To do this, it is recommended to use coarse river sand, which is added before starting brickwork.
To determine the quality of the resulting solution and the correct proportions, the material is rolled into a ball the size of a medium-sized apple. Then it is placed between two planks, and they are slowly squeezed. During this process, watch for the appearance of cracks in the clay:
- if they appear immediately after squeezing, this indicates a large amount of sand in the solution;
- if the ball is compressed to half its height, and no cracks appear, this indicates a lack of sand;
- the proportions of sand and clay are considered ideal if cracks appear when the ball is compressed by 1/3.
Step-by-step instructions: features of brickwork
In order not to get confused in the rows of masonry, even experienced stove makers do it first without mortar. It would be useful to print out the order diagram.
Before starting brickwork, it is necessary to cover the concrete base with waterproofing, and only after that they begin to build the fireplace stove. This process consists of several stages:
- It should be noted that the first rows must be made perfectly even, as they will become the basis for the entire structure. As shown in the diagram, they are laid out in a continuous layer. Using a square, a plumb line and a building level, achieve strict perpendicularity. Before laying, bricks must be soaked in water for 1.5 - 2 hours.
- The second and third rows form a storage area for heating material. This niche is covered with two rows of bricks with a small (up to 3 cm) overlap of upper masonry on the front side of the fireplace stove.
- Starting from the fifth row, lay out the base of the fuel chamber. To do this, use fireclay bricks. The depth of the chamber will be 460 mm. The size of the fireplace stove is (630x490 mm).
- From the sixth to the eighth row, build up the walls of the fireplace stove with the back side of the firebox tilted. That tilt will form a stone tooth in the future. At this stage you will need a hand-held circular saw with stone cutting circles. The ordering diagram shows incomplete or sawn-down bricks.
- From the ninth to the eleventh row, build up the walls of the fireplace stove in accordance with the diagram.
- In the twelfth row, lay two steel corners 60 cm long. The shelves of the corners must be placed inside the chamber, horizontal to its base.
- The thirteenth and fourteenth rows form the front overlap of the firebox window. The bricks must be laid on the tray side, with the fireclay material placed on the inside of the combustion chamber.
- The fifteenth row forms the transition from the firebox to the chimney system. At this stage, the smoke tooth is formed and the back wall is built.
- The sixteenth and seventeenth rows form the shelf of the fireplace stove, so the bricks must be laid with an outer shift.
- From the eighteenth to the twentieth row, the design provides for narrowing. At this step, a smoke collection chamber is formed.
- From the twenty-first to the twenty-fourth row a chimney is laid out.
- From twenty-fifth to twenty-seventh - an increase in the transition section of the chimney. At this stage, a metal valve is installed.
- Subsequent orders determine the height of the chimney.
Features of chimney installation
The inner surface of the chimney pipe is a straight channel, but its outer part has design features.
At the intersection of the floor beam, the chimney has an expansion. This design element is important because it reduces the temperature of the outlet streams. As a result, there is no need to make additional thermal insulation in this place.
At the level of the intersection of the roof, the chimney has an extension. This feature protects the brickwork from the harmful effects of precipitation.
The smoke channel is also protected in the form of a metal cap. It is recommended to equip the chimney with a spark arrester.
Features of operation
When operating a fireplace stove, you should adhere to the following basic rules:
- Before lighting the fireplace stove, you need to make sure there is draft. To do this, you need to pull out the metal bolt. If there is no draft or it goes in the opposite direction, this is a sign of clogging of the grate, air supply holes or the entire chimney system.
- If the fireplace stove has not been used for a long time, then before lighting it you need to remove the cold air lock in the chimney system. To do this, you need to light paper or a bunch of straw near the gas channel. After some time, cravings will appear. After this you can use the fireplace.
- It is better to use aspen, birch, oak, beech or hornbeam firewood as fuel material. Aspen firewood is especially valuable, since when it is burned, the amount of soot is reduced to a minimum. The smoke of this type of wood is capable of cleaning the chimney channels from soot. Furnace specialists advise using aspen firewood for every tenth kindling.
- Coniferous wood contains resins, so it is convenient to use shavings, wood chips, as well as spruce and pine cones for kindling.
- It is not advisable to put a lot of firewood into the combustion chamber. The best option is to load 1/3 of it.
- The room in which the fireplace is located must be well ventilated. For this purpose, the room is equipped with a ventilation system.
- If the fireplace stove is used constantly, then the soot must be removed after each heating season. If the stove is heated several times a month, cleaning can be done once every two to three years.
The fireplace stove will become a key element of the room's interior. The warm and comfortable atmosphere will be unforgettable on cold winter evenings. This functional heating structure will become the main recreation area of your home.
