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Installation of sheathing: we equip a reliable base for different types of roofing. Roof sheathing: we create it ourselves Prices for ondulin

NOTE!

The sheathing transfers the load to the rafters, which in the future it will experience from the weight of the roofing material and precipitation (snow, ice and rain). The sheathing is also designed to fully hold the roof on the building.

The construction of sheathing requires some of the following materials, depending on the roofing material:

  • beam;
  • regular or tongue and groove boards;
  • plywood.

The installation of roof sheathing must be carried out in accordance with established construction rules. This is important because if it is not installed correctly or the instructions are not followed, the entire roof could end up on the ground due to gusts of wind or adverse weather conditions.

Roof sheathing

Therefore, before starting work on the construction of the sheathing, you must first completely understand the device, types of materials and the possibility of their use in specific cases.

Installation of a roof pie

Regardless of what kind of roof was planned buildings - flat or pitched, the roof must be constructed in a certain way.

This element of the structure consists of several layers, which builders have come to call.

It allows you to protect the interior of the building from the adverse effects of any external environmental factors.

The following layers of the pie allow this to be achieved:

  • interior decoration;
  • film for roofing under sheathing - ;
  • directly yourself .

Roofing pie

Each of the above layers, if installed correctly, performs its specific function. If you skip one part of the roof, the remaining elements will be more susceptible to various external factors. In addition, the interior of the building will become less secure and comfortable for living and use.

Interior finishing is most often a layer of plasterboard and a finishing coating, which can be plaster, wallpaper or paint. This part of the pie has only an aesthetic function, covering the inner layers of the roof.

  • The lathing is a special frame, on which the roofing material will be held in the future. A special vapor barrier film is laid on the inside of the roof rafters, which prevents the penetration of fumes from the room into the pie.
  • Most often, insulation material is laid between the roof rafters.. Its most popular types are and. The first type of insulation is fire-resistant and more expensive. It requires large human resources for installation. Polystyrene foam is susceptible to rapid combustion in a fire., releases toxic substances when melting, but at the same time it is more affordable and easier to install.
  • Waterproofing is a film that is placed on top of the rafters. It prevents precipitation from penetrating into the room, and also prevents condensation that can form in the ventilated space from flowing into the roofing pie.
  • Ventilation in the roof is designed to make the rooms directly below it more comfortable for people to live and stay in. Also ventilation protects the roofing pie from water vapor.

Pie under metal tiles

Roofing material can be completely different - both piece and roll. Depending on which of the presented options is chosen, the installation of the sheathing also depends, since it is she who must hold it on the roof.

Features of solid and sparse lathing

What determines the sheathing pitch in a roof structure? Depending on what roofing material was chosen for the roof, there are two different types of sheathing for it:

  1. Continuous roof sheathing– installation of boards of this design is carried out in increments that do not exceed one centimeter. It is also possible to use sheets of plywood. Most often, such lathing is made for such types of roofing materials as. Also, all types of soft roofing coverings are laid on this type of sheathing.
  2. Sparse– installation of planks of this design can vary depending on the material, reaching several tens of centimeters. Most often, this type of sheathing is used under, and.

In some cases, continuous lathing may be applicable for other types of materials if heavy loads will be placed on the roof. Sometimes boards or plywood in such cases are mounted in two layers.

Most often, the thickness of this type of lathing is 25 millimeters. One of the ideal types of lumber for such a structure is a tongue and groove board.

Continuous sheathing

The frame of the sparse sheathing consists of rows of boards or slats parallel to the ridge of the roof and to each other with a certain spacing between them. It can be completely different - from 10 to 800 millimeters.

Most often, for such a design, a wider board is used for sheathing the roof. The minimum size of its cross-section is within 40 millimeters. The heavier the roofing material, the more reliable the frame needs to be made. Therefore, in some cases, the thickness of the boards is increased, and the pitch of their arrangement is reduced.

Characteristics of the material used for lathing

In order to understand what material can be laid on the sheathing, you should first understand the characteristics of its most popular types. These include:

  • tiles (ceramic, );
  • slate(), euroslate();

Various types of tiles (except metal) are small-sized piece roofing elements. This material is considered one of the best due to its properties and long service life.

Wherein tile roofing is the heaviest, which is why it requires a good foundation in the truss frame and appropriate sheathing. It is best to use bars with a cross-section of 50 to 60 millimeters.

The sheathing pitch must be calculated depending on the covering length of each shard, which may vary depending on the manufacturer.

Roof tiles

Slate is one of the most common roofing materials in the country for various reasons. Small sheet sizes can be placed on bars whose size does not exceed 50 millimeters.

If slate units that are large in size and weight are being installed, It is best to use bars about 80 millimeters thick. The step must be selected depending on the size.

They can be either 120*68 centimeters or 175*112.5 centimeters. It is worth remembering that one sheet must rest on at least three bars so that it does not bend under its own weight and atmospheric pressure.

Seam roofing is less popular, but is still sometimes used. If the roof slope is up to 14 degrees, or its configuration itself is quite complex, manufacturers It is recommended to install the material on a continuous sheathing.

What kind of board is needed for roof sheathing? The cross-section of the timber should be within 50*50 millimeters. You can also use a board instead with a cross section of 32*100 millimeters.

You need to start installing the sheathing under the seam roof from the eaves. The protruding parts of the roof should be finished with a solid board over a distance of 60 centimeters in increments of no more than 1 centimeter.

Seam roofing

Soft roofing is quite simple to install, but requires one- or two-layer continuous sheathing. The weight of such material is quite small.

The cost, unlike some other types of roofing, is also quite reasonable. However, the service life of soft materials may not be very long. In addition, they are quite toxic when burned and are not very fire resistant.

Flexible tiles

Selecting the sheathing pitch depending on the roofing material

Each type of material used for roofing buildings must be mounted on the lathing with a certain individual pitch.

This value often needs to be determined independently, depending on the dimensions of the sheets of material, while adhering to strict construction rules. The following patterns can be distinguished for different types of roofing:

  • soft roll materials– you need to use a continuous sheathing with a minimum pitch between its elements of up to 10 millimeters;
  • slate– it is necessary to individually select the pitch depending on the thickness of the sheets – from 50 to 75 centimeters;
  • metal tiles– the instructions of the material manufacturer should be taken into account, but in general it can be indicated that the total step is in the range from 300 to 400 millimeters, and the distance between the last two strips should be half as much;
  • tiles(ceramic, polymer and sand) - you need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions, taking into account the angle of the blood; most often, boards are laid at intervals of 320 to 380 millimeters;
  • seam roofing– the most common lathing pitch is 200 millimeters, although there are others.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing installation

After purchasing the material, you need to order wood for the roof.

The calculation of its dimensions must be made taking into account the dimensions of the roof that was purchased, as well as depending on the size of the roof.

It is worth remembering that the more complex the design, the more waste and substandard elements there will be.

Therefore, it is best to order material with a 10% reserve.

To install the base you may need the following tools:

  • hammer and nails;
  • screwdriver and screws;
  • hacksaw or grinder;
  • pliers;
  • pencil or chalk for marking;
  • roulette;
  • building level.

Installation of waterproofing

When installing, you should adhere to the following instructions:

  1. First, depending on the selected material, you should make markings on the rafter legs for the location of boards or bars. Depending on the type of roof, the markings may not be uniform. More often Smaller steps should be taken at the edges.
  2. After the marking has been carried out, using a hammer and nails, or a screwdriver and screws, you need to carry out step-by-step installation of boards or bars on rafter legs.
  3. After each nailing of the next element, it is necessary to check its location relative to the previous one, as well as correct installation using a level.
  4. The roofing material should be installed directly on the base itself.

Installation of sheathing

Useful video

Video instructions for installing roof sheathing with your own hands:

Conclusion

When installing sheathing for certain types of roofing materials, you must first of all follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

This is important because in the modern world, every year many new materials are invented and manufactured using new technologies, which is why the instructions for their installation are constantly changing.

If you strictly follow the instructions that the company has calculated, you can protect your home from precipitation and climatic conditions for a long time without any problems.

In contact with

When building your own home, an important process in roof design is creating sheathing. The level of protective properties of the future roof and the external attractiveness of the entire structure as a whole depend on the quality of the work performed.

To create a reliable roof yourself, first familiarize yourself with important concepts and its schematic structure.

Roof frame - rafters that perform a load-bearing function.

The sheathing of the roof of a house is a structure made of beams and boards of various sections, which is mounted on the rafters. It promotes rational distribution of the load from ice, roofing material, and snow masses. Another important value is the creation of ventilation due to the gap between the insulating material and the decorative flooring.

Types of sheathing

When deciding the question “how to make a roof sheathing,” you need to clearly imagine what it can be like. This approach will help you make the right decision and create the most suitable type of structure. The main criteria for differentiation are the number of layers and the frequency of installation of the slats.

Types of construction

  • solid (the gap between the bars is no more than 1 cm)
  • weakly sparse (spacing sizes from 3-4 cm)
  • sparse, also known as ordinary (intervals from 30 to 75 cm and above)
  • two-layer
  • single-layer

How to choose the right type of lathing?

Make your choice of technology taking into account the type of roof and decking. These criteria will also affect the choice of material for the construction of the sheathing.

Important! The technology for lathing a flat roof is not particularly different from a pitched roof. It is much easier to do, especially if the angle of inclination is less than 2.5 degrees. Its cost will be several times cheaper.

How much does the sheathing cost?

In order to calculate the roof sheathing, use a specially created computer program to calculate the amount of material required. Enter the parameters of the roof and consumables that you know, after which the calculation will be performed automatically.

Important! Take into account the roof parameters not only those shown in the diagram. Measure real indicators - often they do not coincide. Also note the placement and width of the drain - its parameters affect the length of the roof, that is, accordingly, the total area.

Tools

Prepare the following tools to complete the job:

Installation of roof sheathing under metal tiles

If you prefer metal tiles as a roofing material, pay attention to the following nuances in the process of creating the sheathing:

Consumables

  • beams with a cross section of 30-40 mm
  • boards with a section 20-25 mm larger (for installing the lower beam)
  • bars with a cross section of 20-30 mm
  • anti-condensation film
  • galvanized hardware (screws, nails)
  • wood antiseptic.

Installation technology

Important! Do not stretch the film.

Important! The length of the hardware is determined by the thickness of the timber. For reliable fastening, the length of nails and screws must be 3 times greater.

Video

The video will help you clearly understand the process of creating sheathing for metal tiles.

Roof sheathing under corrugated sheeting

Among the distinctive features of corrugated sheeting as a roofing material, we highlight the possibility of its installation even on roofs with a slight slope. At the same time, when doing roof sheathing with your own hands and then installing sheet material, strictly follow the technology conditions. This will ensure long and reliable operation.

Select the technology based on the roof slope angle:


Important! It is advisable to use a two-layer structure to create a reliable and durable support for the profile sheet.

Consumables

Sequence of work

Important! Between the first two beams, make the gap a little larger, taking into account the degree of load.


Important! Provide continuous roof sheathing around chimneys, pipes, vents and fire vents to provide the necessary rigidity.


Lathing for soft roofing

The main requirement for lathing under soft tiles is smoothness and density in order to preserve the integrity of the future covering during installation.

Material required for work

  • edged calibrated planed board 14 cm wide
  • plywood sheets
  • roofing film
  • bars for attaching film
  • roofing hardware.

Sequencing

Slate roof sheathing

If you chose slate as the roofing material, then the basic rules for creating sheathing will be similar to the above technologies. But there are also some distinctive nuances.

Material used

  • Bars: 75x75 mm - for a regular profile 68x120 mm - for a wavy one
  • roofing nails
  • waterproofing film
  • solution for additional protection of wood.

Technology

Use a slightly sparse installation method for flat slate and a sparse installation method with a large gap between the beams for a wavy profile.

  1. Install the insulating film in accordance with the rules described above.
  2. Install the beams starting from the bottom edge of the roof.
  3. Align the first beam along the line of the cornice, strictly observing the horizontal.
  4. Install subsequent boards in increments of 50 cm for a regular slate profile and 80 cm for a wavy one.

    Important! Even bars should be thicker or located 3 cm higher than odd bars. This principle will help prevent slate sheets from bending.

  5. Secure all beams with roofing nails.

Important! The support of each sheet of slate should be on the edges and the middle, that is, the load is distributed in three places.

How to properly make roof sheathing for rolled material?

In this case, use exclusively continuous installation technology or, if it is necessary to install a double layer, only make the bottom one sparse.

Consumables

  • tongue and groove boards: thickness - from 200-250 mm, width 100-150 mm
  • tongue and groove boards with rounded edges
  • antiseptic for material processing
  • nails
  • anti-condensation film
  • strip of roofing steel 30 cm wide.

Installation sequence

The preparatory process is no different from creating sheathing for other types of roofs - make waterproofing and treat the wood.

  1. Fasten a strip of steel intended for roofing along the entire length of the ridge.
  2. Install a continuous sheathing, starting from the eaves, placing the joints of the boards in a checkerboard pattern.

Important! Be sure to check the tightness of the boards to each other.

  1. At the ends of the roof, install boards with rounded edges to prevent damage to the soft flooring and to make it easier to tuck soft material under.
  2. Secure with nails, recessing the head into the thickness of the wood.
  3. Check for any bumps or protruding nails at the end of installation; if there are any, correct them.
  4. Check the strength of the created structure; the indicator will be the absence of deflections under the person.

When laying a double layer of sheathing for the outer layer, use slats 5-7 cm thick. In this case, install at an angle of 45 degrees.

Video

The attached video below of the process of creating the sheathing will help you better understand the technology

Conclusion

From the entire installation process described above for different types of roofs, we can conclude that the basic principles of the technology are similar, the difference is made up of nuances, which are of particular importance. Therefore, it is not surprising that the price of roof sheathing will vary in accordance with the set of materials selected.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the construction process when creating the sheathing, pay special attention to the accuracy of the parameters of the materials used and compliance with the stages of the technology. Only if these conditions are met, the sheathing will become a reliable, solid basis for the roofing deck and will ensure long-term operation.

Building a beautiful, cozy home for a family is a city dweller’s dream. Having studied all the intricacies of the art of construction, you will be able to bring your idea to life. But, during the work, one of the main questions will be - how to make a roof sheathing? Approach it correctly, because the protective and aesthetic properties of the roof depend on the quality of execution.

The need to create a frame

Before moving on to listing the types of roof sheathing, understand what sheathing is and what it is used for. The lathing used for the roof of private buildings is a structure made of wooden beams and boards. The roofing system installation process is necessary to:

  • evenly distribute the load of a person walking on the surface during its maintenance;
  • securely fix the materials - use a frame welded from metal or made of wood for the sheathing;
  • correctly create a ventilation space between the ceiling and the waterproofing, which protects the building from condensation;
  • promptly prevent the accumulation of moisture at the boundary between warm and cold roofing layers;
  • fully ensure protection of rafters from the effects of weather precipitation (snow and ice).

The number of layers that the sheathing has will depend on the slope of the roof. For a pitched roof, a horizontal single-layer covering is sufficient. The two-layer method involves working with lower load-bearing beams, fixed in increments of 50-100 cm. A layer of plywood or wooden boards is attached on top of it. This technique will allow you to save material and even out the errors in the rafter system using roof sheathing.

Types of roof frames

The roofing needs a reliable and durable surface on which it will be laid. An incorrect construction algorithm will lead to deformations and a lack of protective functions of the home during bad weather.
Depending on the number and frequency of mounted planks, the type of material used, and the angle of inclination, the frame is divided into the following types:

  1. Double layer. Used when maximum structural strengthening is required. The first layer is laid with a large step, and the second - with a normal or without gap.
  2. Solid. It is carried out at intervals of about 1 cm and prevents the appearance of deformations when the wood shrinks or swells.
  3. Normal, in increments of 20-40 cm. Mainly used to reinforce the coating of metal profile sheets.
  4. Sparse. The gaps between the boards reach 75 cm. Used for lightweight floors.

In order to choose the right material and purchase tools, you need to draw up a drawing of the sheathing and carry out preparatory manipulations.

Materials and tools used

Choosing a floor material to cover a building is difficult. Slate, corrugated sheeting, tiles - which of these positions is suitable for covering? It all depends on your desires and financial capabilities.

Cost calculation

To find out how to make the lathing correctly, you need to carry out calculations. The basic rule of construction is accurate planning of costs and quantities of raw materials. For calculations you will need the following data:

  • roof size;
  • material type;
  • roofing structure.

If designing it yourself seems like a daunting task, try an online program. Enter the size of the coating, all known parameters of the materials used - the program will automatically perform the calculation.

Purchasing building materials for wooden sheathing

Use seasoned wood with no visible defects. The presence of knots and cracks can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure and subsequent destruction. The following materials and tools are used for work:

  • wooden beam with a section of 50×50, 60×60, 75×75 mm;
  • edged boards for sheathing with a section of 150×20, 150×50 mm;
  • fastening elements (screws, nails) with a length twice the size of the timber;
  • level, pencil, tape measure for marking;
  • circular saw used for cutting roofing material;
  • a hammer for nails or a screwdriver if self-tapping screws are used.

The lumber must be marked and cut according to the drawing. If electrical equipment is not available, you can buy or rent it.

Installation technology

Having completed preliminary calculations and purchased the necessary materials and tools, you can begin installation. There are separate technological nuances for different types of flooring. But the general production order is as follows:

  1. Carefully measure the roof after the rafter frame is installed. To do this, you need to check the diagonals along all slopes with a nylon cord. Deviations should not exceed 20 mm, because the run-up will cause difficulties during further fastening of the roof.
  2. Treat all wooden elements with antiseptic solutions to avoid rotting and insect damage.
  3. Place waterproofing materials on the rafters.
  4. Install the lower strips. Use large cross-section timber for these purposes.
  5. Continue work, laying boards at the selected spacing. For each type of flooring it is selected individually. An incorrectly performed step can lead to weakening of the entire structure.
  6. If it is necessary to carry out insulation, place mineral wool on the first layer, and, after that, a second layer of sheathing can be made.
  7. Lay the end boards next to each other to use them for later decoration of the ridge.
  8. Fasten on both sides, and if the overhang is large, perform additional fixation.

These rules should be followed when installing a frame under any type of roofing material. But there are minor features.

Features of moisture protection of sheathing

To create a waterproofing layer, vapor barrier or hydrobarrier materials are used. When working with them, an overlap of 10-15 cm should be maintained. The waterproofing is installed in the direction from the eaves to the ridges, with slight tension. Ventilation holes are formed due to the sagging of the film material, which is secured with a construction stapler.

How to make sheathing for corrugated sheets?

The roof sheathing under the corrugated sheet differs in some nuances. The profile sheet has a large load - a person can walk on it without fear of falling through. When working with a profiled sheet, consider several important nuances:

  • For a roof made of corrugated sheets, it is necessary to strictly maintain the spacing between the boards. Its distance can be varied from 50 to 150 cm, focusing on the wave of the material and its marking (sheets with the H index will be optimal for roofing systems);
  • When using sheets with a height of less than 35 millimeters for work, the step should be kept to a minimum. This will increase the strength and rigidity of the coating;
  • standard parameters of wooden planks are less than the size of the slope, so it is necessary to splice them;
  • in the horizontal planes, the joints must be shifted to prevent weakening of the structure;
  • For corrugated sheets, special fasteners are used - galvanized self-tapping screws with rubber washers that prevent the sheets from being crushed during fastening. The connection is made using rivets.

If a pitched roof with a slight slope was built from a profile sheet, you need to make a solid frame from boards 60-70 mm wide. The nail heads are recessed as much as possible. The sheathing board is laid strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. Only well-dried wood is used so that warping does not occur when it is placed tightly.

Lathing for slate roofing - specifics

For sheathing under slate, it is advisable to purchase beams with a larger cross-section. Three beams must be placed under each sheet to evenly distribute the load. Fastening is done with special slate nails in the places where the wave touches the wood. Use lumber without bending to ensure a tight, gap-free fit of the slate sheet.

Making a frame for metal tiles

In addition to profile sheets, there is another type of durable and durable coating - metal tiles. When building a house, it is placed in a single-layer manner. The lathing can be made by stuffing bars with a cross-section larger than 1 mm onto the rafters. The pitch of the structure depends on the parameters of the tile. To ensure a uniform fit of the roof, the frame is made as even as possible. The position of the boards is checked by a level.

Benefits of self-building

A roof installed in compliance with the requirements of the technological process will last for many years and will save your home from destruction. After studying the recommendations on the issue, you can perform labor-intensive tasks yourself. Having carried out a set of measurements with the required accuracy and followed the installation recommendations, you will receive good and durable protection from all sorts of adversities, ensure peace and comfort of living in a country house.

Many materials for interior decoration, which are presented in the assortment of hardware stores, require their installation on a pre-prepared sheathing. If you don’t want to invite a construction crew, then do the lathing yourself. This is not a particularly complicated process, however, a couple of significant points should be taken into account for any type of lathing, without which the final result of the cladding will be of poor quality or short-lived.

There are a number of possible lathing constructions and options for how to make them for walls, ceilings and floors. First, we will discuss the materials used to form the sheathing, and then we will consider the various methods of its construction, indicating all the nuances.

Selecting material for interior sheathing

wood and metal sheathing

According to the type of material it can be formed:

  • Wooden sheathing;
  • Made from galvanized profile;
  • Plastic sheathing.

Metal

In modern construction, a galvanized profile, which was originally invented for fastening drywall, is most often used as the main material for forming lathing for interior work. This uses a U-shaped profile with different sizes and shapes for different target placements. A UD profile is used to form the perimeter. The end of the CD profile is inserted into it, from which the sheathing actually consists.

Several other types of profiles are used mainly for forming partitions and walls, so sheathing is not useful in the arrangement. In addition, there is a whole range of fasteners and accessories for mounting profiles and connecting them, which greatly facilitates the assembly of sheathing of any complexity and shape.

Tree

A time-tested material is, of course, wood, especially since the average cost of lathing made of wood is significantly lower than the same one made of galvanized profile. Timber and boards with dimensions varying within 25-50 mm are used. For interior work, it is best to choose the minimum acceptable size that will allow you to securely fasten the cladding material and will not deform under the influence of its weight or the external environment.

Wood is a fairly pliable material from which you can construct a sheathing for a variety of purposes. However, there are a number of limitations and features that somewhat reduce its value as a material for sheathing. First of all, this is exposure to moisture, as well as its low fire safety. These shortcomings can be significantly reduced by using special impregnations. However, risks cannot be completely eliminated.

wooden sheathing using ordinary construction foam

Plastic

In most cases, plastic profiles for sheathing are made for a specific type of sheathing, and the methods for installing them can vary dramatically. The specifics of their installation should be clarified in the manufacturer's instructions.

General structure of the lathing

To create lathing in the general case it is necessary to mount the frame around the perimeter of each sheathed surface. It is brought to the required level. After this, the intermediate elements are placed at a distance necessary to secure the sheathing elements. This is a very important point in which mistakes are not allowed.

For fixing plasterboard sheets the distance of the sheathing elements should be half the width of the sheet. In this case, the distance itself is calculated from the middle of one crossbar to the middle of the other. Only in this case will it be possible to properly fasten the sheets end to end.

For covering with PVC, aluminum or wood panels you can limit yourself to a distance equal to the length of the elements or place one or two more supporting elements of the sheathing in the middle between them. For the ceiling, it is better to take a smaller distance between the beams or profiles (450-600 mm) so that the cladding elements do not sag.

In case it happens, the distance between the sheathing bars is sufficient to accommodate it. So, for example, when using strips or slabs of mineral wool, the distance should be 1-2 cm less than the dimensions of the insulator. This will allow you to pack it tightly without gaps.

Taking into account these construction features, you can already decide on the required amount of base material and determine how much the sheathing costs.

If necessary, at the stage of forming the sheathing, hidden wiring, various communications and elements of additional equipment, such as heated floors, insulation, etc., are distributed. In the case of forming a sheathing with a counter-lattice, the frame around the perimeter should be made at a certain height for both layers of timber.

Choosing the direction of the sheathing

There are several types of lathing:

  1. vertical
  2. horizontal
  3. with counter-lattice

You can choose the appropriate option from the first two only by deciding on the location of the elements of the finishing material. The counter-lattice is formed, firstly, to ensure normal ventilation of the space under the cladding, and secondly, to position the thermal insulation layer. It is applicable only when wooden sheathing is installed.

For plasterboard sheets, the lathing should be placed vertically, with the condition of the same direction for the drywall sheets themselves. The rule here is that the sheet must be fastened evenly along its entire length. Otherwise, when using transverse lathing, you will have to fill it too thickly, which will significantly affect the cost of the entire structure.

For mounting various types of materials consisting of individual panels or strips, such as PVC panels, lining or wooden slats, aluminum panels, etc., it is used transverse lathing. This means that when the material elements are arranged horizontally, the sheathing is performed vertically and vice versa.

If necessary, form counter-lattice The outer layer of the sheathing is mounted according to the rules already described, and the bottom layer, which is directly attached to the base, is positioned perpendicularly.

Horizontal (transverse) lathing and counter lathing using the example of a roof. When working indoors, a counter-lattice is rarely required.

Type 1: wooden beam sheathing

Wooden beams and boards are indispensable in the case of, and are also suitable for lathing walls.

The following tools will be required for the work:

  1. saw;
  2. jigsaw (preferably);
  3. hammer drill;
  4. screwdriver, screwdriver;
  5. chisel;
  6. mallet, hammer;
  7. tape measure, level, plumb lines, construction corner.
  • The materials required are directly the timber from which the sheathing is installed, a board for making substrates, a board for the frame, screws and dowels for mounting the timber to the base.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the place for installing the outer elements of the sheathing (frame). This is especially important in cases where only part of the surface will be occupied for finishing. The location of the beams or boards along the perimeter is especially carefully measured using a level and plumb lines, because subsequent elements can be oriented along the frame.

If the surface on which the sheathing is made is uneven, you will have to use backings for some of the beams or parts thereof so that the outer edges of the sheathing form a single plane in the level. For example, you can sharpen the beams or comb the base. The choice of option depends on the nature of the irregularities. If they are present throughout the wall or floor, then it is better to use substrates. To determine the distance at which the beams will be separated from the wall, you should determine the highest point on the surface and from there calculate the position of the frame beams. In this case, it is best to take another 2-3 mm margin for unevenness of the beams themselves, which will be used in the sheathing.

Having determined the direction of the first beam of the frame, and having calculated the required size of the substrates that are needed, you can secure it with dowels and screws. The timber is secured with screws every 20-25 cm.

After the first beam, the rest are installed, which will form the perimeter of the sheathing. Everything is done with the derivation of a common plane and level. Window and door openings, as well as protruding parts of the walls, are lined around the perimeter with beams in order to securely fasten the edges of the sheathing elements along their border.

Scheme of sheathing a wall on a balcony for cladding with clapboard or panels

After this, you can begin to install the intermediate beams. There is no need to rigidly connect the intermediate beams to the frame elements, especially if you are not sure that the wood is properly dried. In the case of rigid fastening, due to thermal deformation or due to changes in humidity, the position of the sheathing elements may be lost, which will affect both the appearance and the strength of the entire structure.

When using backings, you should secure the edges of the timber, checking the readings of the building level and plumb lines, and only after that start fastening in the middle, combing out the backings of the required thickness or placing the required number of prepared pieces.

All wood used in the manufacture of sheathing should be treated with protective compounds containing antiseptics and fire retardants. This will protect the material from rotting, fungi, absorption of excess moisture and reduce the risk of fire.

Video: example of installing wooden sheathing under plastic panels

Type 2: metal lathing (made of galvanized profile)

The following tools will be required:

  1. metal scissors;
  2. screwdriver;
  3. level, plumb;
  4. tape measure, construction corner;
  5. hammer drill.

Most often, a galvanized profile is used when making sheathing for plasterboard, but it is also perfect for other sheathing materials. With the help of such a profile and all kinds of auxiliary fastenings, it is possible to sheath any surface. A galvanized profile is not suitable for forming sheathing on the floor; it is not strong enough for this. But the lathing on the ceiling is best and easiest to assemble from a profile, and not from a wooden beam.

In any case, all work begins with the installation of UD support profiles. They are fixed on the extreme sides perpendicular to the placement of the sheathing elements. All intermediate elements will be inserted with their ends inside this profile and attached to them. In addition to the two main guides, additional ones are installed parallel to the edges of window and door openings, as well as along the perimeter of protruding elements that will not be sheathed.

The supporting metal profiles must be securely held to the base. To do this, fastening dowels are placed every 15-25 cm. As in the case of wooden sheathing, underlays may be needed if the surface of the base is uneven. It is extremely important to correctly determine the height of the substrates, because if you make a mistake or miscalculate, then when fixing the profile it will bend. After this it is no longer possible to level it.

Method of metal wall lathing based on CD60 profile

What nails should be used to secure the sheathing on the roof.

There are three types of nails that can be used to install wood sheathing. These are ordinary glossy nails, and ragged And screw nails.

Which nails are better

It is highly undesirable to use ordinary glossy nails (smooth rod) for the roof, since they have low tensile strength from lumber. Simple construction nails have a bad property - when the wood dries out, they begin to come out a little. Over a couple of years, combined with the tested loads and external influences, the fastening of the sheathing weakens, which can negatively affect the durability of the rafter structure.

Rough nails

The “best” best option is to use galvanized ones for fastening wooden elements during roof construction. They have the highest tensile strength, which is why they are deservedly considered No. 1 in the professional construction world.

Often, rough nails are also called ring nails.

Rough nails have proven their reliability when used on wooden pallets, which, like sheathing, is also a lattice structure.

Those who have had to deal with dismantling a board nailed with ring nails know that it is easier to make a hole in the board than to pull out a rough nail.

After many years, fastening to rough nails will remain strong and reliable.

Length of nails for sheathing

The size of the nail needed to fasten the wooden sheathing depends on the thickness of the sheathing used.

  • To attach a 20 mm thick sheathing, the nail length must be at least 60 mm;
  • Lathing 25-30 mm thick - attached 70 mm;
  • Sheathing thickness 40-50 mm - nail 90-100 mm;
  • For 60 mm thickness - nail length = 120 mm.

It is worth emphasizing as a separate point that:

For roof sheathing, since this is a long-term structure, it is advisable to use nails galvanized grade.

Consumption of nails for sheathing

  • Consumption of nails in wooden beams up to 50x50 mm in size, one nail per connection (so as not to split the wood).
  • For sheathing widths from 60 to 120 mm, you can use 2 nails per connection to the counter beam or rafter leg. You can alternate the number of nails along the sheathing according to the scheme 2-1-2-1-2-1-2...
  • If a wider board 130-200 mm is used, 2 nails per connection are required.
  • And, if the board is already quite wide (more than 200 mm), use 3 nails per connection.

If there are no rough nails, they can be replaced with ones of similar length screw nails.

Screw nails, unlike simple construction nails, can withstand loads and wood drying processes much better.