The base usually consists of 5 or 7 layers of veneer glued at 90 degrees to each other. Base weight is from 60 to 90 grams. The weight of the assembled racket is 155-190 grams. Base thickness 5-8mm. Weight requirements are determined by the use of the least dense wood species. These are balsa (7 times lighter than birch), hinoki, abashi, silver poplar and some others.
So, what I wanted and what I had. The weight of the finished racket is 165-175 grams. A universal foundation, not quick, but also immediate. There was 3 mm birch plywood and veneer (thickness 0.7-1.1 mm) of mostly dense (heavy) species available. Oak, beech, mahogany and other exotic species. This veneer is used in lining furniture and doors. There is very little information on this issue on the Internet. However, I found a blogstumpof . blogspot . ru a wonderful person who made a reference book on modern foundations with characteristics. There, a person shares his experience in making homemade bases and gives 2 ready-made drawings of bases from famous brands. To have something to start with, I’m taking apart an old amateur racket. I remove the lining and the cheeks of the handle. The weight of the base without cheeks is 72 grams + cheeks are 20 grams, for a total of 92 grams. I have a belt sander, an oscillating sander, a hand router, a flat press, and PVA (long tack) wood glue.
I cut out a 170*290mm base from 3mm plywood. I sand on both sides to 2.5mm. I select the lightest and thinnest veneer. I cut out one pair with the same size with a transverse arrangement of fibers and one with a longitudinal arrangement. The long side of plywood is the fibers along. We glue the veneer on both sides at the same time with the fibers across (for layers inside the base, you can make a shirt from two parts of veneer). After drying (2-3 days), sanding, removing dust and gluing another pair of veneer (fibers along). Spread a thin layer of glue on all surfaces prepared for gluing. After gluing is completed (24 hours), the workpiece must be kept for at least a week under a light load to avoid warping. Next, grinding on both sides, transferring the base pattern to the workpiece and processing to size. I'll tell you more. The pattern was made from two layers of whatman paper glued together. Outline according to the pattern on the blank with a black helium pen. Next, you need to carefully (without chipping) trim off the excess, leaving a small allowance (1-1.5mm) for further processing. It is most convenient to cut off the excess with a stationary band jigsaw or circular saw, making sure to place fiberboard or thin plywood under the workpiece (to prevent chipping). To process the base to size, I had to make a special tool. It is a cylinder made of plywood with dimensionsd50*60mm. There is a mounting hole inside the cylinderd20. Ond50, 100-grit sandpaper was glued on. The size of the outer diameter was selected based on the need to process the interface between the handle and the head of the base, and the inner diameter was selected from the available equipment. That is, it turned out to be a grinding head. This tool was also convenient for processing cheeks (bevels in the upper part under the finger). The result was a 7-layer base with a thickness of 5.1 mm and a weight of 95 grams, which, taking into account the weight of the cheeks (plus 20 grams), became unacceptably heavy. I began to think about how to lighten the base. First option: drill rows of holes on birch plywood (3mm) in the playing area (5-6mm), then glue the veneer. The second option was more interesting. In addition to the base, I needed to make cheeks for the handle. Here too there were two options. One is traditional. Set of thickness (7-9mm) in layers of veneer. The second one came to my mind while looking at ready-made bases from well-known companies. For example, the company« Donic » many bases with handles (cheeks) made of cork. I found a 2mm thick rolled cork for the walls. In terms of weight, it turned out that 2mm cork weighs the same as 0.7mm veneer of the same area. Alternating layers of cork (4) and veneer (3) gave a thickness of about 10mm. The dimensions of the blank for the cheeks are 120*35*10. After processing, the weight of two cheeks is 15-16 grams, that is, I reduced the weight of the racket by 5 grams. What if you use a cork at the very base? Or maybe someone is already making them? I did a little searching on the Internet... and found it. The Chinese are already doing it! There are few of them, they are in the middle price category, universal. And nothing else is known. I decided to do it with a cork. Two options emerged again! Here are the sandwich options:
- Veneer-along; veneer-across; cork; veneer-along; cork; veneer-across; veneer-along.
2 layers of cork 2mm - 4mm each
Total: - 7.5mm
- Veneer-along; veneer-across; veneer-along; cork; veneer-along; veneer-across; veneer-along.
1 layer of cork 2mm- 2mm
Total: - 6.2mm
The weight of the finished base with cork cheeks (option 1) was 86 grams, thickness 7.2mm.
The weight of the finished base with veneer cheeks (option 2) was 88 grams, thickness 6mm.
In addition to these bases, two more bases with “crooked” handles were made. I was interested in the unusual foundations of a Japanese companyNittaku. I thought that changing the angle of the handle from the vertical caused the racquet to contact the ball earlier, which could increase the spin (debatable, hard to explain). Especially according to the rulesIITF The dimensions and shape of the base are not regulated. The angle of inclination of the handles from the vertical of my bases is 7.5 degrees.
Now about making the cheeks. I don't have a flexible wrist (long sessions barbell), so I prefer rackets with a straight handle. Sometimes in a game you have to change The grip position and doing this with a cone-shaped handle is inconvenient. Depending on the thickness of the base, the thickness of the cheeks is selected. A finished racket with a straight handle usually has dimensions (in cross-section) of 28-29*21.5-23 mm. For example, base 6mm, 22-6=16, 16:2=8mm. That is, before further processing, the cheeks must be adjusted to a size of 110 * 30 * 8-8.5 mm. Next, the edges are processed using a router with a cutter of the required radius (6-8mm). A bevel is made in the upper part of the cheek for the thumb. The handle of the base is also processed to a size of 30 mm. After gluing the cheeks, the handle is processed to a size of 28-29mm. It is better to glue the cheeks onto the handle at a time. To prevent them from moving, it is necessary to center them on the “fingers”. To do this, drill two holes in the handle (50-70mm between centers) with a diameter equal to the diameter of a wooden toothpick. The cheek is applied to the handle in the desired position. Using the previously drilled holes, holes are drilled in the cheeks to a depth of 5mm. We do the same with the other cheek. We cut two toothpicks of the required length (in the example 6+4+4=14mm), insert them into the holes on the handle, grease them with PVA glue (used Titebond2), we center both cheeks on the “fingers” and compress them with clamps through gaskets. After a day, you can process the handle to size. Before gluing the overlays, you can apply diluted varnish (any kind) to the base. This is done to prevent wood fibers from being pulled out when removing the pads.
I will give the characteristics of the resulting rackets.
Base 86 g, thick. 7.2mm, 7 layers (5 veneer, 2 cork), overlaysRITC 729 SST, 1.8mm black and red. The weight of the racket is 173 grams. The base is quite fast (despite the cork, the use of dense veneers has an effect). Overlays are not fast, but fasterRITC 729 FX. Good control. A good racket for beginner athletes.
Base 87 g, thick. 7.2mm, 7 layers (5 veneer, 2 cork), curved handle, overlaysRITC729 802, short studs, 2mm black and red. The weight of the racket is 162 grams. I am currently playing with this racket. The racket is universal, good in both attack and defense (worse). Flat blows right through to oversized swords are especially good. The crooked handle is peculiar, but there are positive aspects.
Base 88 g, thick. 6mm, 7 layers (6 veneer, 1 cork), veneer cheeks, overlaysRITC 729 FX, 1.8mm black and red. The weight of the racket is 173 grams. A slow racket with excellent ball control. For beginners. My daughter is learning to play with this racket.
Base 89 g, thick. 6 mm, 7 layers (6 veneer, 1 cork), veneer cheeks, curved handle, overlaysRITC 729 Xi Enting, 2 mm black and red. The weight of the racket is 167 grams. Much faster than the previous option. I haven't played much, so I can't say anything special.
I think I made excellent bases from scrap material. And, if you wish, I invite you to try out new rackets.
Table tennis is both an Olympic sport and a very popular, interesting game that does not lose its relevance to this day. Table tennis is played by both professionals - masters of sports, candidates for master's degree, and just amateurs! It's no secret that a tennis racket is of great importance and your game will depend on its choice: ball control, rebound speed, spin, etc. Some players, after playing ping pong for say a month, understand that the main weapon in the game of table tennis is the tennis racket - it has, if not a primary, then undoubtedly an important role! The comfort of the racket handle and the characteristics of the racket itself influence the speed and quality of the game of table tennis. And this, in turn, is the key to a successful game and victory!
In online stores and specialized stores of table tennis equipment and clothing you can see a huge selection of all kinds of table tennis bases and rubbers. All this diversity is just dizzying.
So how do you choose a tennis racket from the wide variety that suits your playing style and is comfortable? After all, outwardly all rackets are the same and practically no different from each other! Just a different handle configuration, wood color and that’s it. But in fact, each racket is individual, each racket blade has its own unique ball rebound speed, its own ball control.
The most important thing is that the racket allows you to play comfortably at high speed, and allows you to perfectly control the spinning ball during the ball! The racket must be good in both defense and defense. A good racket should be a powerful tool in the hands of a tennis player. Only such a racket can lead a tennis player to victory over his opponent!
Components of a table tennis racket!
A table tennis racket consists of the following main parts:
1. Base (plywood) – the most basic part of the racket. It is made from all kinds of wood, even using alloys of aluminum and titanium. To increase the overall weight of the racket, a carbon insert is built into the base. The professional base is made of several layers, which are glued together with special glue. As a rule, there are 5 or 7 such layers. It is of great importance that the total weight does not exceed 100 grams! As a rule, their weight ranges from 74 to 100 grams.
2. The racket handle is an integral part of the racket base. The handle is responsible for the comfort of the game. The ease of placement in the hand will depend on its shape. The handle should not strain your hand too much. It should provide comfort when rotating it with your wrist! Today there are 5 types of pens known. They all have different thicknesses, they can be flared or straight, etc.
3. Rubbers – the upper component of the racket. They come in studded and smooth types. They are responsible for the speed and force of rotation of the ball. The rubbers allow you to make all sorts of complex serves, from sliced and lightning-fast to short and slow! Sticky pads allow you to spin the ball with underspin, overspin, right spin, left spin, or a combination of these spins. Rubbers are the part of the racket that needs to be replaced, either due to wear or due to a change in playing style. Let's say you prefer an attacking style of play, and your rubbers are that of a defender. According to the requirements of the Table Tennis Federation, the rubbers must have different colors (red and black). This allows the opponent to monitor the change of side of the racket and makes it possible to determine the type of blow: with or without rotation, defensive or attacking! Between the base and the rubber pad, as a rule, there is a sponge - a special spongy layer created for the catapulting rebound of the ball from the racket.
It should be noted right away that there are ready-made rackets, and there are also not ready-made ones, but prefabricated ones.
With a professional approach to table tennis, you have the opportunity to carry out your unique order for the production of a combined racket according to your own request with the characteristics you need!
Many beginners buy inexpensive products from popular tennis brands in the hope that they will get good quality for the right price. For a beginner, this is the right choice, because at first you need to learn how to control the ball when playing the ball, and be able to throw the ball to the opposite side of the table. And the rule, the higher the cost, the proportionally higher the quality, does not work here! Because a beginner, having bought an expensive professional racket, will not be able to appreciate all its unsurpassed characteristics. Moreover, such a racket can even harm a beginner, since such a racket has high speed and rotation characteristics. But you shouldn’t buy a cheap Chinese fake either. Advice: Don't buy a racquet for growth. Play with simple rackets first (more suitable for your playing style), then move on to more complex ones that require more complex table tennis elements: top spin, slice, etc.
It is better to consult with a coach before purchasing a racket. If you don’t have a trainer, then become a sales consultant at the store where you will buy. He will tell you the characteristics of various models and recommend a racket model for you! Before buying a racket, hold it in your hands, feel the comfort of the handle, turning the brush in different directions. Buy a special case for your racket to protect it from contamination and damage!
So, choosing the right racket is a very important point in the process of training and learning. This is important for achieving high sports results! This issue must be approached seriously with maximum responsibility!
Instructions
When choosing a racket, you need to consider the following characteristics: weight, material, balance, head size, handle size and rim thickness. Children's rackets weigh from 200 grams, and rackets, suitable for a professional - from 400 grams. Materials from which they are made rackets: aluminum and its alloys, graphite, composite materials based on graphite and other materials. Carbon and titanium are also used. The main tennis manufacturers are Head, Babolat, Prince, Yonex, Wilson and Dunlop, which compete with each other in the technology of their products. Goal: make rackets lighter, more convenient and more “obedient”, more maneuverable. And yet, in order to make a tennis racket as “customized” as possible, it would be useful to consult a specialist.
Start choosing tennis rackets need from the handle. In this case, it is necessary to take into account its size; how it lies in your hand, how comfortable your grip is, whether the racket slips out of your hand. In other words, it should be comfortable for you to hold in your hand. The racket is then selected based on the player's height, experience and playing style.
Beginner tennis players usually use rackets club with a large head and weighing 250-290 g. Such rackets allow you not to overexert your hand and hit the ball comfortably, due to the so-called. "big gaming spot". Rackets for, as a rule, are somewhat lighter than those for. As your playing technique develops, you can change the racket to a more “advanced” one, which requires more serious technique from the player.
To begin with, you will only need two rackets with the same tensions. One of them is a spare one. As for professional players, they come to training and tournaments with the precaution of having 5-6 spare rackets with them, since there is a fairly high probability that the strings will break unexpectedly.
Now about how to care for a tennis racket. With careful care, the racket will serve you for a long time. To do this you need to be dry and warm; carefully inspect the strings; from time to time (once every 10-15 workouts) change the winding on the handle. By the way, today's manufacturers supply rackets special devices, thanks to which rackets extend service life. These are, for example, protective tapes on the rim that protect it from chips and scratches, “vibration dampers” that reduce vibration of the strings, etc.
Video on the topic
note
When choosing a tennis racket, you must decide why you are purchasing it: play several times a month with friends or dream of conquering the “tennis Olympus” by working out with a professional trainer. Amateur rackets are suitable for both beginners and those who play tennis according to their mood, from time to time. Children's - rackets for children from 3 years old. Such rackets are selected according to the child’s height. Junior rackets also fall into this category.
Helpful advice
The easiest way to determine whether a handle suits you or not is to place the racket in your palm. Then grab it and place the index finger of your other hand in the gap between the fingers and the palm of the hand holding the racket. As the point of contact of the ball with the strings moves away from the center of the racket, the impact falls. The most unpleasant thing is when the ball hits very close to the rim, since the racket receives a large torque, spins in the hand, and the strength and accuracy of the hit drops sharply.
If you are not a professional athlete and have no one to consult with, then making a racket yourself can be quite difficult. With our instructions, you can easily assemble it yourself.
Two methods for assembling a racket.
There are two most popular assembly methods. There are no particular differences between them. The only difference is that in the first case, all the pads along the base are cut off first, after which the glue is applied. In the second case, the overlays are first glued to the base, and then the edges are cut off. Both assembly methods have their pros and cons. So, let's take a closer look at all the details. Method one. Prepare the base, two pads, one tube of quick glue, a utility knife and tape. For the second method you will also need a base, two pads, a tube of quick glue, a sponge, a knife and end tape. Place the pad on the base. Press it firmly with your hand, and then trim off any unnecessary edges. You can make a racket alone, or you can enlist the help of a partner. Behind
Then you should apply glue to the sponge. Distribute the glue over the entire surface area. Make sure it lays down evenly. Because The glue dries quite quickly, so it is better to do this procedure as quickly as possible. Don't apply too much glue. It is better to apply a thin but even layer. Wait until the glue is absorbed. To do this you will need to wait a couple of minutes. The sponge should appear dry. After that, let's move on to the foundation. We also apply glue to the base and then let it soak. Once the glue has soaked in, the base should look completely dry. Glue the overlay onto the base, only very carefully. Iron the decal firmly onto the base. That's it, the overlay is ready.
The same procedure must be carried out with the second overlay. Apply a thin layer of glue, let it soak in and glue the second overlay. The tennis racket is almost ready. Apply end tape around the entire perimeter.
That's it, she's ready. It turns out that the question of how to make a table tennis racket yourself is not so difficult. It is only important to know in what order everything should be done.
People who play sports are statistically less likely to suffer from chronic diseases, always have a good mood and excellent physical shape. But we all know how much sports equipment costs now. Sometimes the price of sports equipment exceeds the price of a blouse from a famous couturier. Why limit yourself to active movements and sports when you can make any sports equipment yourself at home. First, take a small thing, for example, a sports racket.
If you are interested in making your own table tennis racket, then watch the video.
To make a tennis racket, we will need:
- plywood;
- silicone foam;
- thin strips;
- electric jigsaw;
- file;
- cutter;
- Super glue;
- paint with brushes;
- PVC tape;
- pencil;
- corner;
- sandpaper;
- roulette.
We will need a piece of plywood in order to draw the outline of the racket on it. The dimensions should be closer to standard, namely 28 by 16 centimeters. You don’t need to draw the racket randomly, as this can lead to one edge being larger or smaller than the other. Draw cells or horizontal and vertical stripes on the plywood and draw your racket based on them.
Now we take a jigsaw and cut out the racket. It is best to use a jigsaw with an infrared beam; using it you will see in which direction you need to move the jigsaw.
Sand the racket with sandpaper. It will hide all the irregularities and remove burrs that can seriously injure your hands.
For the handle we need thin strip linings. Carefully measure the length of the slats; it should be no more than 11 centimeters.
We grind the upper part of the lining with a file at an angle of 30 degrees.
Now silicone foam will be used. From this we cut out the outline for the top of the racket, but before that we need to paint the racket itself. Paint one side of the racket one color and the other side a different color.
While the racket is drying, we cut out silicone foam along the contour of the racket.
We have made 2 blanks from silicone foam, now we need to glue them on both sides using super glue.
Now we glue the strips onto the handle and wrap everything with PVC tape.
