Wood-burning brick oven. Making a heating wood-burning brick stove with your own hands Small-sized wood-burning brick heating stoves

The stove has long symbolized the hearth, which gathers our loved ones and relatives around it. Make your own wood-burning stove for your home, which will have all the necessary qualities: good heating, structural strength and ease of use.

It is better to make your own foundation for the stove; it is a rather massive structure and its operation takes place under special conditions. If the strength of the floor allows, then it can be installed on it, but in this case, all additional loads must be taken into account in the calculation of the floors.

The foundation for the furnace can be:

• made of monolithic concrete;
• reinforced concrete slab;
• from short concrete blocks;
• masonry made of ordinary clay solid bricks;
• rubble concrete masonry.

It all depends on the availability of the material.

Important! You cannot use sand-lime brick or block for foundation construction. In a humid environment, this material loses strength.

The depth of placement is taken from the conditions of the natural properties of the soil and its bearing capacity. If during the cold period the building has interruptions in heating, then it is better to lay the foundation below the freezing depth of the soil. For example, for loams it is 1.6 m, for sands it is 1.8 m for central Russia. In heated buildings throughout the cold season, the depth of the foundation base is taken below the ground level at the outer wall of the house by at least 500 mm.

Foundation for the stove. 1. Soil. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel preparation.4. House foundation. 5. Furnace foundation. 6. Sand between foundations as a thermal decoupler. 7. Waterproofing. 8. Oven base

If the stove is installed against a wall, then the foundation of the stove is built at a distance of more than 5 cm from the foundation of the wall. The gap is filled with compacted sand. The dimensions of the foundation for the furnace are taken to be larger than the dimensions of the furnace itself by 100 mm around the perimeter. A 15 cm compacted sand and gravel cushion is made under the base of the foundation. The thickness of the cushion is included in the depth of the foundation.

Important! When excavating the earth, you must not dig up the soil at the base of the foundation of the wall, which is located nearby. This may weaken its load-bearing capacity.

Laying the furnace mass begins at a level 15 cm below the finished floor. Before this, the foundation is covered with 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing felt).

Consumption of materials and furnace equipment

To construct a furnace array you will need:

1. Solid ordinary clay brick GOST 390-96 - 300 pcs.
2. Medium fat clay (sand content 15%) - 5 buckets.
3. Cement M300-400 - 100 kg.
4. Sand for mortar - 8 buckets.
5. Grate 180x250 mm - 1 pc.
6. Fire door 205x205 mm - 1 pc.
7. Blower door - 1 pc.
8. Cast iron two-burner stove - 1 pc.
9. Oven 240x300x350 mm - 1 pc.
10. Smoke damper 130x240 mm - 3 pcs.
11. Steel sheet 120x400x5 mm - 1 piece.
12. Steel sheet 150-300x2 mm - 1 pc.
13. Steel corner 50x50x5 mm - 3.5 m.
14. Steel tube Ø 30x3 mm - 0.5 m.
15. Duralumin corner 20x20x1 mm - 3.5 m.

Fireclay brick is a heat-resistant material specially designed for laying a furnace.

1. Oven. 2. Blowing door. 3. Fire door. 4. Damper

Tools for furnace work

1. Hammer. 2. Furnace hammer. 3. Rubber hammer. 4. Chisel. 5. Pliers. 6. Trapezoidal trowel. 7. Trowel. 8. Construction corner. 9. Bubble level. 10. Bucket for solution. 11. Brush. 12. Roulette

Features of furnace masonry

When laying bricks in stoves, it is important to maintain the vertical and horizontal positions of the seams, channels and surfaces of the stove. Mandatory bandaging of the rows will ensure the joint operation of the entire furnace structure.

The width of horizontal joints should not exceed 5 mm, and vertical joints - 3 mm. It is very important to fill the seams completely with mortar. All internal surfaces of the oven are mopped with a wet cloth.

Each row of the furnace is selected according to materials in advance without mortar. Fastening of oven devices (frames, doors) is carried out using steel wire or claws made of steel strip.

All metal parts of the stove, due to different thermal conductivity with brick, are laid with a gap, which is filled with asbestos cord. For fire safety purposes, the grate is installed 7-14 cm below the firebox opening with a gap of 5 mm, filled with ash or sand. The area of ​​the grate holes must be more than ¼ of the firebox area. All stove appliances are installed during the laying of the stove.

Furnace masonry work involves the use of clay-sand mortar, or a solution from a ready-made refractory mixture. The clay-sand solution is prepared in advance, about a day in advance. The clay/sand proportions are 1:1.5. Fine sand is used, sifted through a sieve (cells 1-1.5 mm). It should not contain foreign impurities.

The clay chosen is mainly red and also without foreign impurities. It is pre-soaked for 1-2 days. Brick for kiln work must be well fired and produce a clear sound when tapped.

Important! Unburnt bricks, those with cracks, voids, or silicate bricks cannot be used.

The floor of combustible materials in front of the firebox is protected by a steel pre-furnace sheet, which is laid on an asbestos-cement sheet and attached to the floor.

This oven includes:

• single burner stove;
• oven;
• hood.

1. Furnace foundation. 2. Waterproofing. 3. Steel sheet and asbestos pad to protect the floor. 4. Blower door. 5. Fire door. 6. Damper. 7. Hob. 8. Chimney damper. 9. Oven. 10. Chimney. 11. Gender

Front and side views of the baby stove

It is distinguished by low wood consumption with high heat transfer (approximately 1700 kcal/hour), simplicity of design, two modes of use: for heating the room (winter) and for cooking (summer). The kindling stroke, which serves to light the stove after a fire break, can also be used in the summer when using a hob. In this case, the room is not heated; heat enters directly into the pipe.

Oven dimensions:

• width - 750 mm;
• depth - 630 mm;
• height - 1950 mm.

The ceiling over the stove is made of a two-burner stove, cut in half. The hole in the ceiling is used for exhaust, which is closed with a valve.

Orders

1st row. Is the base for the oven. At this stage, you can make two rows. A blower door with a gap and an asbestos-cement cord is also installed here.

2-3 rows. The walls of the ash chamber and one cleaning chamber are laid out, which is closed dry with half a brick.

4th row. Partially covers the ash chamber and begins to form smoke channels.

5th row. Involves the installation of a grate. The holes are located along the fuel chamber. The laying of the canal walls continues.

6-8 row. The combustion chamber is formed. Here, at the same time, the firebox door is installed with a gap (3-5 mm), into which the asbestos cord is laid.

9 row. Forms the walls of the combustion chamber and channels according to the orders.

10 row. Continues the construction of the combustion chamber walls and channels according to the procedures.

11th row. A single-burner stove is installed, the frame of the niche is laid, and the laying of the stove wall and channels continues.

12-18 row. The cooking niche and channels are laid out. On the thirteenth row, a valve for kindling is installed.

12th row

13th row

14-16th rows

17-18th row

19th row. The second half of the stove with a valve is installed on the metal frame of the cooking niche and on the bricks, and the nineteenth row is laid out.

20th row. Involves the installation of an oven and further laying of channels according to the procedures.

21-22 row. Continue laying around the oven and laying the channels.

23rd row. Supports are installed to cover the oven chamber.

24-26 row. The laying of channels is done according to the procedures.

27-28 row. The channels are overlapped, leaving one pipe channel 140x140 mm according to the order.

Basic requirements for pipe construction

The pipe inside the house is laid on clay-sand mortar, outside the roof - on cement-sand mortar. Before reaching the ceiling three rows, they begin to make fluff.

1. Chimney. 2. Fluff. 3. Rise to the roof. 4. Otter. 5. Head

In places where coating structures made of flammable materials pass, the pipe wall thickness should be 380 mm for fire safety reasons. An otter is made above the roof surface to prevent moisture from entering under the roof. The pipe channel from above must be protected with a metal cap.

1. Laying the main part of the chimney. 2. The order of the fluff. 3. Otter order.

The height of the pipe above the roof to improve traction is taken in accordance with the distance to the ridge.

Drying the oven

Drying the oven is done carefully and slowly over three to eight days. In this case, daily combustion is carried out with a small amount of fuel. Throughout the drying of the furnace, the furnace door, blower door and valves must be open. When the wet streaks on the seams disappear from the surface of the stove and the stove becomes light brown in color, you can stop the moderate fire. In this case, condensation should disappear on the valve.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove, even made by your own hands, can create. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick kilns

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no such person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled. The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which the optimal humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that when operating a heating device you do not have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:

• a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a firebox that simultaneously serves as a firebox and combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

• fast surface heating;
• possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which occurs if used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood-burning stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows them to increase efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

   

   The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

1. A house intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then a better option than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device equipped with a hob. The ideal option is fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. A stove in a country house with water or another type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so the best shape for the smoke channel would be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material required, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
3. Angle, plumb line and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scriber.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Joining.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Crushed stone.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

• from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the stove is being built in a finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin to mark out and build the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle zone, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent laitance from leaking through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. At a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heating device, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason you are not satisfied with them, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove arrangement diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:

1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Here and below, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden strip.

   

   Installation of the combustion door

7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. The vertical walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the external walls with basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before covering the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this purpose, both mineral insulation and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how stove doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Oven installation features

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as large a surface area as possible. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use a hob and a water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it of ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is considered to be hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen leave virtually no soot. By the way, experienced stove makers recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), naphthalene, etc. It is unlikely that a good effect can be achieved from this, but it will benefit nearby buildings and your own health. cause significant damage.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find the material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners can fold the unit. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will reward you not only with cozy warmth and comfort, but also with safe operation over many years of operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Despite the rapid development of new technologies and improvements in home heating methods, the old proven brick stoves for wood-burning cottages still do not lose their relevance.

Indeed, often in houses remote from civilization or located in areas where there are power outages and gas supply is not expected at all, wood-burning brick stoves are the only possible means of heating the room.

But sometimes people deliberately choose brick stoves for their country house, despite all the benefits of civilization. After all, they help create that unique comfort, give the warmth and atmosphere of solitude that we all look for when going out of town.

We’ll talk about the advantages, design principles and features of laying a brick stove with your own hands today in this article.

The experience of folk craftsmen and engineer-inventors has given the world a considerable number of types of stoves, from which it is not difficult to choose the only one for the dacha that will quickly warm up the room in the winter cold and help prepare food.

But, despite all the variety of stone stoves, they can all be divided into 3 categories:

• cooking;
• heating and cooking;
• heating structures.

In addition, you can also find multifunctional designs that combine a fireplace, water circuit, etc. Therefore, before you start building a brick stove in your dacha, you should immediately decide on the type of construction.

1. Cooking type of construction. This type of stove is chosen by cottage owners only if the house is used only in the summer. This option works well in combination with a water heating tank. Often, owners install such a stove in a house where there is gas and electricity supply, but in order to save money, it is more rational to use a wood-burning stove in the summer.

The design is a stove with a hob, a water-heating tank and an oven.

Furnaces for summer cottages are also divided according to the type of construction:

• Russian;
• Dutch (Dutch);
• Swedish (Swedish).

Of course, today you can find many other variations of wood-burning stoves, but these are the most common, which have proven themselves well due to their high efficiency, reliability and efficiency.

Russian stove

This design has been used by our ancestors for centuries, and its main feature is the arrangement of a bed and shelf for drying shoes and clothes. If the house is used all year round, then this option is very effective. But for a summer dacha it is better to abandon the Russian stove.

The fact is that the high efficiency of the Russian stove is achieved only with constant combustion. If you leave such a stove for the winter, it will take more than one day to then dry it out and “put” the stove into operation. Due to its technical features, it quickly gains moisture without a firebox.

In addition, when a wet brick is fired for the first time, it may crack.

The Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, so it will not always look appropriate in a small dacha.

The only advantage is the unpretentiousness of the material itself for the construction of the furnace and a fairly simple masonry scheme.

Dutch

One of the most popular types of stone stoves, the design of which involves the presence of a smoke channel. Thanks to this, the Dutch oven effectively heats several rooms at once.

The advantages include:

• small dimensions;
• high efficiency;
• fuel efficiency.

But the disadvantages of such a stove are high requirements for the quality of building materials and the quality of firewood. In addition, at sub-zero temperatures outside, such a stove takes a long time to warm up, so it is better to constantly heat it.

Swede

This stove is deservedly popular in our country, as it was designed taking into account the harsh climate of the northern countries. The advantage of the Swede is its compactness, high performance, fast heating and the ability to heat several rooms at once.

This is achieved thanks to the special design of the furnace. The back side with the fireplace usually opens into the living room, and the front side has an oven and hob. For a summer residence, this type of stove is the most optimal choice.

The only drawback of the Swede is the high requirements for the quality of the material. If a Russian stove can be made from leftover material, then for a Swedish stove you will have to purchase high-quality red ceramic bricks.

Also, high demands are placed on Swedish firewood. They must be well dried, otherwise the stove will not give off heat.

Features of the design of a brick stove for a summer residence

Depending on the type and design, the oven can perform the following functions:

• Cooking (frying, boiling, stewing, baking, etc.).
• Drying shoes and clothes, as well as preparing food for the winter (mushrooms, berries).
• Heating beds.
• Opportunity to admire an open flame on winter evenings.

In addition to the functional classification, before building a brick stove for a summer residence, you need to decide on the configuration.

• rectangular heating stove;
• T-shaped;
• round oven;
• Russian stove with a stove bench;
• little one.

The size of the oven is also important. The large oven design with thick walls can distribute heat over 50 square meters. But in order to warm them up well, it will take at least two hours, which is not always convenient.

This especially causes discomfort at the dacha, where the owners only visit on weekends. A cold house will warm up for at least 3-4 hours before the room temperature returns to normal.

A small stove cannot heat a large house. Its heat is enough for a room of 15-20 square meters. meters. At the same time, it will warm up in 30-40 minutes, giving off heat around. In addition, we should not forget about the efficiency of the stove. For a large stove, you need to take care of the supply of firewood in advance and prepare a large one in the summer.

A stone stove also has a significant drawback - the inability to heat distant rooms of the house. That is why in large houses with several rooms, 2-3 stoves are placed, each of which has its own chimney and performs its own function.

According to the principle of construction, brick ovens can be:

• Duct with forced movement of gases.
• Bell furnaces with free gas movement.

Channel stoves include the usual “Dutch” or “Swedish” stoves. The combustion of wood occurs in the firebox, from which a smoke channel extends. Under the influence of draft, combustion products are discharged through this smoke channel.

The main objective of this design is to maximize the heating of the furnace wall, and after that the heat will spread throughout the entire room for a long time.

Despite the simplicity of the design, such a stove has a number of disadvantages.

• It all depends on the traction force. The narrow channel obstructs the air flow and requires a high enough chimney to overcome this resistance to the flow. In houses with low ceilings, this is not always convenient. And as a result, after installing the furnace, the owners are faced with the problem of poor draft in the furnace.
• In addition, the principle of the channel structure of the furnace involves the concentration of hot air at the top of the furnace. That is, most of the heat is transferred to the upper part. Because of this, downstairs, near the floor, it can be quite cold.
• The efficiency of such units does not exceed 60-65%. And the average, with standard traction, is even less - 40-45%.
• Due to its large design, such a stove takes a long time to heat up. To heat a structure “from scratch” will take 2.5-3 hours.

Furnaces with free movement of gases show themselves in a completely different way in everyday life. Their principle was first described by Lomonosov, and later refined by Kuznetsov, which is why in everyday life such furnaces were called “blacksmiths”.

The operating principle is based on the movement of free gases. As we know from physics, hot air rises, displacing cold air. In such a furnace, the firebox and combustion chamber are combined, and hot air circulates freely from one chamber to another.

Such ovens also have a second and sometimes a third chamber, which are connected to each other by a dry seam located at the bottom of the chamber.

Features of laying a brick oven with your own hands

What nuances do you need to know before starting to lay the stove?

Materials needed for laying the stove.

Tools needed for laying the stove:

• Building level.
• Shovel
• Construction marker.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction plumb.
• Goniometer.

Important! A lot when laying a stove depends on the quality of the clay. It should be moderately thick and have medium fat content. Red river clay, which has lain in the open air for at least two years, is considered ideal for constructing a stove. Clay, under the influence of precipitation and natural factors, becomes plastic, homogeneous and will firmly hold the masonry.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

If all conditions of the instructions are met, laying the furnace will take 30-35 days. Order is of great importance here. You should not violate it or try to introduce your own adjustments to the design. The laying of rows, their number and installation of elements are clearly verified and require strict adherence to the instructions.

Below is a diagram of the arrangement of a brick oven with a hob and oven.

Step 1. Determine the location of the furnace.

Once you have decided where you will place the stove: in the corner, in the center or against the wall, you should clearly mark on the floor the location of the stone structure.

In order to clearly understand the construction of the chimney and not to rest against a wooden roof beam when laying the pipe, we use a plumb line.

• We draw a diagram of the placement of the stove and the location of the firebox, chimney, hob and oven.
• Consider the location of windows and doors that will impede the free circulation of warm air.

In order for the stove to serve for a long time and delight you with its maximum performance, we will give several recommendations regarding its placement. And the point is not only in compliance with fire safety rules, but also in the efficiency of its work.

Today we propose to consider the features of a brick stove with a hob, since it is this type that is very popular among summer residents. Our detailed ordering diagram will help you build brick stoves for a wood-burning cottage.

Step 2. We build a foundation for the stove.

The construction of any furnace begins with the construction of a foundation. This is a very important step, on which the strength, reliability of the structure and its efficiency will depend.

Ideally, of course, design a stove before building a house. Then the ideal place for the stove will be allocated, and the foundation will be laid at the stage of erecting the floors. But often people think about laying a stove after furnishing their home. That's why we chose this option so that you can build a foundation from scratch in an already finished house.

The foundation should in no case be connected to the main foundation of the house. When the house shrinks or other phenomena occur, the base of the stove should not be deformed.

• Using a construction marker, mark a rectangle on the floor along which you want to cut the boards.

  

  Keep in mind that the size of the foundation should exceed the size of the stove by 10-15 cm on each side.

• Using a grinder, we cut out the boards according to the markings and move them to the sides.
• Now you need to go 70 cm deep into the ground to build a solid foundation for the stove. To do this we use a bayonet shovel. Focus on the layer of soil that will freeze in winter. In central Russia, it can reach 80-100 cm. In this case, you will have to increase the depth of the pit. It is very important to properly insulate the perimeter of the foundation. If you are building a stove in an already finished house, where the common foundation is well insulated around the perimeter, then you can dig a hole of 30 cm. This will be enough.

  

• After a pit has been dug in the ground along the perimeter of the marking, we proceed to the construction of wooden formwork. The formwork functions as a skeleton that forms the foundation. For formwork you can use plywood boards, old floors, etc.

  

  This will not affect the quality and strength of the foundation in any way. Measure the length and width of the hole you dug and cut the boards to this size. Using nails, put together the formwork. It should end 14 cm before the start of the finished floor.

• After the formwork is built, it is necessary to protect the wood from moisture that will be contained in the cement mortar. To do this, we lay thick polyethylene around the perimeter and connect it to the walls with a construction stapler. Waterproofing is the most important component of the work when constructing a foundation. If frozen, moisture-saturated soil comes into direct contact with the concrete base of the furnace, then a force equal to 25 tons per 1 square meter will press on the foundation, which leads to destruction
• Now you can start pouring the cement mortar, but before that you need to create a strong cushion that retains moisture. At the bottom of the hole, pour medium-hard gravel and add 10-15 cm of sand.
• We fill the foundation with cement mortar to the height of the formwork, not reaching the finished floor by 14 cm.
• We lay a reinforcing metal mesh on top.

  

  Level the top well with a shovel and check with a building level how even the surface is. Now you need to wait 24-28 days, depending on the quality of the cement mortar, until the foundation is completely dry. Do not rush under any circumstances and do not install the stove before this time, otherwise it will become deformed within a few weeks.

• On a flat and well-dried concrete surface, we lay two continuous rows of bricks along the perimeter of the foundation. Thus, our foundation reaches the finished floor.

  

• Now it is necessary to lay a layer of roofing material on top of the masonry in 2 layers, which will serve as waterproofing.

  

• The solid foundation for the brick oven is ready - you can proceed directly to the laying. But, before laying bricks on the mortar, it is better to lay out the entire structure, according to the diagram, “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you will be able to see difficult moments at the draft stage that you will have to pay special attention to.

Attention! It is also recommended that each new layer be done dry first. This is especially true for beginners who are faced with laying a stove for the first time. After laying bricks on the mortar, it will be difficult for you to correct your mistakes and errors.

Step 3. Preparing bricks for masonry.

Immediately measure the amount of brick that you will need for the first stage of work. Please note that laying a stove is a complex and labor-intensive process and cannot be completed in a day. Be aware that beginners will be able to complete 4-5 rows per day, no more.

Take a portion of red ceramic brick, clean it well and soak it in water for 12 hours.

When you lay out a firebox made of fireclay bricks, you just need to rinse it with water.

The process of preparing material for masonry also includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts and cutting off the corners. Look at the diagram to see what shape of brick you will need for each row. It’s better to do this right away, so that later, when laying the row, you won’t be distracted by these moments.

Splitting the brick also needs to be done at this stage. Keep in mind that before “beating off” the required part of the brick, according to the diagram, you first need to make a groove.

In this case, one longitudinal groove is enough for ½ brick. But if you need to chip off 1/6 or 1/8 of a brick, then the groove is made on all sides of the brick.

Step 4. Prepare the mortar for masonry.

The correct solution for laying a stove is the key to its efficient operation. If you decide to lay a brick stove for a wood-burning cottage with your own hands, then it is better to prepare the solution yourself.

Video. Furnace laying. We make a solution from clay with our own hands.

Although on sale now you can find ready-made factory mortars for laying a furnace, which are of good quality.

For this you will need sand and red river clay. Clay is the irreplaceable material without which no masonry mortar is unthinkable. Due to its unique properties, soft and plastic, it, under the influence of fire, turns into a durable stone.

After firing, it acquires the strength of a brick and can withstand high temperatures. However, in order for it to be truly strong and reliably hold the masonry together, it is necessary to maintain the correct proportion of all ingredients.

One of the main indicators of clay quality is its fat content. If you take “skinny” clay, then when heated, it may crack.

We will not indicate the exact amount of ingredients, since there is no ideal proportion. Depending on the quality of the clay and its fat content, the solution is made “by eye”.

It should have the consistency of thick homemade sour cream and should not drip from the trowel. At the same time, under no circumstances should there be grains in it, so the solution should be thoroughly kneaded.

We measure out the required amount of clay that will be needed for masonry and fill it with water. There is no need to immediately prepare the solution for the entire oven if you do not plan to finish the masonry in 1 day. Measure out exactly as much as you can complete.

Attention. Clay mortar is not suitable for arranging the foundation and chimney. Typically, cement mortar is used for this.

Step 5. Build the oven.

The first row is very important in the oven and the entire shape of the structure depends on it. Therefore, first lay out the first continuous row “dry”, and place a building level on top. Maintain even angles. They can be checked during the process with a plumb line.

Before you start laying bricks, we recommend that you read the detailed instructions and tips for building a stove.

Video. We are learning to lay a small stove.

Advice! You may not get straight seams the first time. To do this, you can use wooden slats, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the seam. They are laid on a row, after which the solution is applied and the second row is laid. Prepare enough slats to cover three rows. By the time you finish the third row, you can remove the sizing tool from the first row and use it further.

Before laying the first row of bricks on the roofing felt, make markings with chalk.

Advice! To prevent the stove from being pulled to the side when laying, and to avoid the need to check the verticality of the stove after each row, you can stretch 4 vertical threads in the corners, which are secured to the ceiling. They will serve as a kind of beacon guides for the furnace.

• The 2nd row repeats the first. Watch the thickness of the seams. The blower door is also installed here.

  

  To do this, we pass burnt metal wire through the holes and twist it into a bundle. We lay the second end of the wire between the bricks.

• The 3rd row forms the ash chamber, in which all the ash and ash accumulate.

  

  All gaps between the brick and metal elements must be filled with asbestos cord, which levels out the temperature difference when firing the stove.

  

• 4, 5th row begins to form a firebox with fireclay bricks.
• We install a grate on top. Maintain a seam gap of 3-5 mm. This gap must be left taking into account the expansion of the metal at high temperatures. Fill this gap with sand. We block the ash door with a brick. Installing the oven.

  

• 6th row. We begin to form the chimney pipe and lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.
• 7, 8, 9th rows - laying the firebox with fireclay bricks.

  

• On the 10th row we close the oven. We create a partition from brick, raising it by 2 cm. Apply a clay-sand mortar to the oven, to the level of the partition. Here we place a metal corner (on the front side under the slab).
• We lay an asbestos strip on the 10th row before installing the hob on the next row. The fact is that metal elements tend to expand when heated, so it is important to lay a layer of asbestos.

  

• 11th row – install the hob. Please note that the slab is placed directly into the recesses on the brick. To clearly understand the marking of these recesses, number each brick when you lay the row and, with a marker, mark the place where you need to cut it with a grinder.



After this, assemble the row for the solution. Keep in mind that the entire row is placed on a clay-sand mortar, but the hob itself is placed on a clay-asbestos liquid mortar. To prepare it, take a small portion of the prepared clay-sand mortar and add crushed asbestos, knead well.

Attention! If the hob burners have different diameters, then it is necessary to place the larger ones above the combustion chamber, and the smaller holes above the oven.

Attention! When laying out smoke channels, make sure that the solution does not remain inside. Use a washcloth or trowel to remove any remaining solution, otherwise it will then interfere with the unhindered circulation of hot air.

• 17,18th row. We cover the cooking surface, carefully filling the seams with 3-5 mm of solution.

  

• Rows 19 and 20 – on the right side we install doors through which the oven will be cleaned.
• We make the 21-23rd row according to the chimney ordering scheme.
• 24th row - we lay the last steel plate on top of the bricks, which ensures the zigzag movement of gas in the smoke channel.
• 25th row - place a metal sheet.

  

• On the 26th row we install a valve, taking into account a gap of 5 mm, between which we lay an asbestos cord.



Row 27-28 – lay out a hole for the chimney.

• On the 29th row, the masonry is expanded by ¼ brick to create a cornice. Here we block all the channels, leaving only the pipe.

  

• On the 30th row we make an additional extension of 5 cm.
• On the 31st row, we reduce the size of the oven to its original form.

  

Step 6. Laying the chimney.

The location of the chimney is indicated at the stove design stage. But in any case, for normal draft, the height of the chimney should not be less than 5 meters.

Also make sure that there is no residual solution left inside, otherwise it will interfere with normal traction.

When leading the pipe out of the house through the roof, consider the height of the canopy. It should be 50 cm below the top of the chimney, otherwise turbulence may form around the chimney.

We complete the chimney laying with a metal grate that prevents debris from getting inside the chimney. You can also install a cap (umbrella) on the top of the chimney, which will reliably protect the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Finishing the furnace.

After the oven is completely laid out, you can begin finishing cladding. As the outer layer, you can use decorative facing stone, ceramic tiles, and red brick.

Remember that any additional material applied to the outside of the stove will reduce heat output.

Therefore, if you are more interested in the efficiency of the stove than its appearance, you can simply cover the brick with a layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Drying the oven.

Having completely finished laying the stove, it is necessary to dry it thoroughly, since it now contains a large amount of moisture from the solution.

To do this, open the combustion chamber door and leave the stove for 7-10 days. Brick and clay-sand must dry well, otherwise the “raw masonry” may become deformed from the high temperature.

If you build a stove in warm weather, it will dry out naturally. In cold weather, use a fan.

Another option for forced drying is a 200-300W electric light bulb, which is installed inside the firebox and left to burn there for 7-10 days. But this is a necessary measure that must be taken only if the temperature outside is less than zero degrees Celsius.

Step 9. Lighting up the stove.

When all the finishing work is completed and the stove is well dried, it is necessary to carry out the first test kindling. This is not a tricky matter, but it’s better to follow our tips to avoid trouble and achieve maximum oven efficiency:

• Do not use trash or glossy magazines for kindling.
• Keep flammable items away from the stove.
• Close the firebox door tightly before the flame burns.
• Don't put the oven on high heat right away. It needs to be warmed up gradually.
• Use only high-quality, well-dried firewood.

The video describes in detail the process of laying a simple brick kiln on a dry

Video. Detailed laying of a brick stove for a summer residence.

Brick stoves are a source of a healthy atmosphere and fresh air (thanks to draft and constant renewal of air in the room), there is no need for additional installation of radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and warm the air simultaneously in several rooms.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very good for health.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all instructions, follow masonry technology, monitor the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the stove is in the center of the house.

• Heating;
• For cooking (predecessors of modern stoves);
• Cooking and heating (combination of the two previous models);
• Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

It is advisable to carry out construction in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: 220 bricks, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), a sheet of asbestos cement, a grate - grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, we must build a foundation. We select the type of foundation after studying the type of soil and groundwater level. We wait for the foundation to completely harden and begin construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended to lay out the stove without mortar as a practice to avoid mistakes in the future. We will number the rows along the course of the laying for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak the bricks in water.

1. We lay out the first two rows according to the drawing, continuous. To do this you will need 10 bricks for each row.
2. In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we attach it to wire and special metal fasteners).
3. 4: we build this row, checking the order, building up the walls.
4. 5: we build a brick ceiling over the blower door, lay the grate (don’t forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate to the brickwork, pour sand into the gap).
5. Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the combustion door. We build the sixth row, clamping the door fastening with bricks.
6. The seventh and eighth row - we build up the walls, observing the order, again checking the drawing.
7. In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating a ceiling above it. In this row we begin to build a smoke collector and finish it by the eleventh row.
8. To separate the cooking area and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on edge. We fix the cast iron hob (row number 12).
9. From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row we lay out the bricks “on edge”. We cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
10. Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
11. In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we install a cleaning door and build up the walls of the oven.
12. Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
13. The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace by tying the previous row).
14. The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
15. After this, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we carry out the masonry according to the drawing. In rows 27 and 28 we leave space between the bricks to clean the oven.
16. Then we completely cover the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
17. From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and take the chimney to the street.

How to light a brick stove with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If there are any, cover them with a clay solution. We clean the stove from combustion products. We prepare the firewood. We warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the ash door ajar for air access. To ensure even burning of the firewood, stir it with a poker as it burns. It is optimal to add additional firewood after the formation of the first coals.

Making a wood-burning stove for your home: Instructions for building a brick stove

This stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of ​​30-40 sq.m.

The stove has three smoke channels located vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two firing modes - summer and winter.

For work we purchase:

• solid ceramic bricks grade M175 - 400 pieces;
• fireproof bricks – 20 pieces (ШБ8);
• two-burner cast iron stove 70x40 cm;
• valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
• fire door 27x30 cm;
• 2 blower doors 15x16 cm;
• masonry tools (trowels, mortar containers, etc.).

We build a foundation for the furnace and begin laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it determines the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is no more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fireproof cutting.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install the ash door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future we will line the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we fasten the cleaning door and form the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we cover the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we overlap the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see two vertical smoke channels of 12x12 cm being formed.

Let's designate the left channel as number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one as number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the stove in winter). The dimensions of the release channel are 25X12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form the channels and install the combustion door.

Eighth row: we tie row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the oven.

We install the summer valve. If it is opened, the smoke will flow directly into the chimney without overheating the room. If the valve is closed, the flue gases will enter channel number 3 and travel along a long path, heating the entire furnace structure and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We prepare a support for installing the fire door locking.

Tenth row: close the combustion door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here the transition of flue gases from the second channel to the first will occur when firing in winter mode.

We cut out slots for the grate from fireclay bricks and place them inside the oven. We insulate the back wall with mineral wool.

The work of a stove maker can rightfully be called an art, since it requires special skill and knowledge. You can build the stove according to all the rules only after carefully studying the instructions and the masonry diagram.

Exterior view of a brick wood heating stove

If you decide to try yourself as a stove maker and do not want to make mistakes, follow all the rules of work and the selection of the necessary material. In order not to have problems with the fire inspection, you need to know that chimneys and stoves are installed in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

There are a large number of stove designs. They come in large or small sizes. Which one to choose will largely depend on the area of ​​the house that will be heated by it, and the place where it will be built. The most famous ones include the Dutch, Swedish and Russian stoves.

According to their purpose, stoves are divided into cooking, heating and heating-cooking. In areas where there is no gas heating, sometimes stoves become the only source of heat in winter, which is why they remain popular today. But it should be noted that stoves and fireplaces are installed not only when necessary - lovers of comfort and living warmth, if possible, also want to have this miracle creation in their home. And if the heating stove is laid out with your own hands, you will treat it differently, do not forget to clean and repair.

Choosing a place to install the stove

The choice of location for constructing this structure is also important. Most often, the stove is installed closer to the entrance of the room, near the main wall of the house. It should be positioned so that the heat creates a curtain of cold from the front door and evenly warms the room.

An important condition in the location is accessibility to all its walls; this is necessary to monitor its serviceability, cleaning and maintenance.

Materials and tools for work

Before starting work, you need to prepare all the materials and tools for masonry, so that later you do not have to be distracted from the process.

Required Tools

1. and 2. - Sledgehammers are needed to separate bricks into pieces and punch holes in the masonry.

3 - A trowel (trowel) is necessary for any work with concrete or clay mortar. The mortar is placed on the brick using a trowel, and the excess is picked up with it.

4. and 5. — Tampers when constructing a furnace are necessary to compact the soil in the place where its structure is being built.

6. — Hammers-picks are needed for splitting bricks into several parts and trimming them.

7. and 8. — Joints are designed to compact the mortar in the joints and give the masonry a clear pattern. They help make the seams recessed or convex, rectangular, round or double-cut triangular. Use this tool, moistened with water, to pass through the uncured mortar in the joints without applying any effort. After each implementation, the jointing is cleaned of the solution.

9. — Mortar shovel — you can’t do without this tool when mixing mortar for masonry.

10. — Besides, you need to have tools to control the accuracy of the masonry and its verticality - this is an aluminum and wooden rule, a plumb line, a square, a level, a tape measure and a folding meter.

Necessary materials

It’s easy to guess that the performance of the stove and its durability will depend on the quality of the chosen material. Therefore, you should not save on them. Although you have decided to save money on building a stove with your own hands, you cannot skimp on materials!

• Fireproof red brick - its quantity will depend on the stove design you choose. This material is quite caustic and therefore must be handled very carefully during transportation.

• Fireclay brick is necessary for the firebox. Usually 40 pieces are enough, but still its quantity also needs to be calculated based on the chosen design. It is more fireproof and can withstand temperatures up to 1500 o. You cannot use another type of brick for this part of the stove, as it will not heat up well enough and therefore not heat the room. In addition, it will quickly collapse from high temperatures.

• The masonry mortar is made from clay. Experts advise using Borovichevsky mortar; it involves adding a fire-resistant mixture, but you can also use ordinary clay of suitable varieties.

• Cast iron elements of the stove: hob, combustion and blower doors, grates (grid for the firebox and blower), valves, as well as a door for the cleaning chamber.

• A metal container for heating water (if it is included in the design of your stove).

• Steel wire for fastening cast iron parts of the structure.

Instructions for building a wood heating system brick ovens

• The first thing you need to do when starting to install a stove is to prepare the place. The soil under it must be well strengthened with crushed stone and thoroughly compacted. A layer of sand is placed on it, then reinforcement and formwork.

• Next, the foundation is installed. You can’t do without it, since the design of the stove is quite massive, so it cannot be installed on floors or simply on compacted soil. Concrete is poured into the formwork and leveled.

Usually the stove foundation is made immediately when building a house, but it is possible to do it later. If the floors are wooden, you will have to cut out the desired area to make room.

• If the stove is located near a wooden wall, insulation must be laid between them. It must be environmentally friendly and not emit toxic fumes when heated. Such materials include: asbestos, stainless steel metal, fire-resistant plasterboard, fiberglass, natural stone, etc.

• After the concrete base has hardened, it is best to lay one or two sheets of roofing felt on the foundation; it will serve as excellent waterproofing.

• Next, the row laying begins. For each furnace design, there is a special diagram that must be followed when laying out each row of bricks. If you are planning a small Dutch oven, the diagram below will do.

• The work of laying a stove is very important and if you are taking on it for the first time, you should practice. Following the diagram, fold at least half of the entire structure in a row with your own hands without using a solution, so to speak, dry. Only when you understand the intricacy of the rows, only then can you start laying the mortar.

• In order to maintain even angles and an ideal vertical structure, it is imperative to use plumb lines, corners and a level. Corners, pillars and joints must be laid according to a proven scheme that has been proven over the years:

Scheme for laying corners and joints of a heating furnace

• When you start the main work, anyway, each row is first laid out dry in order to select the bricks in size, and if necessary, adjust them. And at the same time figure out how to arrange the row correctly.

• They always start laying from the corner. The first brick laid should cover the joints of the bottom row.

• High-quality masonry on the mortar is obtained if the clay is laid in thin layers, compacting it well.

• According to the diagram, having reached the row on which the ash door and grate are installed, they are secured using steel wire.

• Next, the process proceeds sequentially, based on the drawing. Approximately at the level of the seventh row, the firebox grate and its door are installed. The niche formed behind the grate is filled with a clay solution.

Do not forget that the firebox of a heating furnace is lined with sand-lime bricks. Having arranged it, we then work according to the scheme.

• When making a stove with a hob, you need to clearly monitor which row it should be placed on. It is better to place it on a metal corner welded into a frame, according to the size of the panel.

• Based on this vertical diagram, you can see where the cleaning door is installed.

• Also, having reached the row indicated in your drawing diagram, install a water tank (if provided). He also settles on the steel strips. In each design it is located at different levels.
  

• The chimney can be made of brick or stainless metal. It should be the size of the stove chimney opening on which the valve is installed. Formwork is placed around this structure, and concrete is poured into it.

• If the ceiling is wooden, you need to install a metal sheet on it, through which the pipe will pass. Then the stove rises several more rows to the ceiling so that an interfloor transition can be made. In it, the pipe is lined with fireproof mineral wool, and the pipe is led out into the attic. Next, it is brought to the roof and insulated with sealant.

• If the pipe is laid out of brick, you must strictly follow the rules for laying corners and maintain the chimney opening throughout the entire height of the pipe.

Our experts have prepared a video with step-by-step instructions for laying out a brick oven; we highly recommend that you familiarize yourself with it:

Drying the oven

After the work is completed, the oven must be thoroughly dried.

• Natural drying takes place within 6 — 8 days. To do this, all doors and latches are opened. To activate the process, you can place a 200 W light bulb in the firebox for the entire drying period.

• Next comes forced drying. Her carried out using dry firewood with all doors and valves open, except for the firebox. This process ss pr provided daily for 8— 10 days according to the following system: on the first day no more than 2— 2.5 kg of firewood, in subsequent days 1 kg is added to it.

• When after the next fireboxes in 2 — After 4 hours, condensation no longer appears on the doors, the stove is considered dry, and a control fire can be carried out using a large amount of firewood.

• If cracks appear after inspection fireboxes , do not rush to close them right away - you need to monitor how the process will proceed over the course of 3— 5 months. And only after this it is necessary to carry out repairs in the necessary places.

What needs to be provided?

It’s great when the house is warm and cozy, but you need to make sure that the fireplace or stove does not become a source of danger:

• To prevent carbon monoxide from penetrating into your home, you need to check the tightness of the masonry joints;

• the appearance of smoke in the room when the stove is heating indicates that the draft is not good enough - the reason may be a clogged chimney or a closed damper. To prevent this from happening, the chimney needs to be cleaned once a year.

Proper operation and regular maintenance of this beloved structure is a guarantee that it will not become a source of danger, and your home will always be warm and comfortable.